Oil Leak - left side but not push rod tubes or oil cooler

[b15605]

Dear All,
1973 Super Beetle with Stock 1600 DP: I have had a decent oil leak for a while. It is on the left side of the engine about mid way; therefore, I bought an oil cooler and seals, thinking this is my issue.

Yesterday, I went in to begin the work. I typically remove the decklid and doghouse with the engine in the car (find this easier, just an opinion). Anyway, once I got the doghouse off, I realized that there was not a drop of oil coming from the oil cooler area - it was clean. I looked underneath and confirmed there was an oil leak from simply moving the car in to the garage for this work. I decided wipe the engine down and then hook up the carb again and run the engine without the doghouse for ~30 secs (avoiding any overheating situation).

Indeed, the oil started running in a reasonable stream, but upon looking from the top, there was none from the oil cooler. Looking underneath, the stream begins above all pushrod tubes. The stream is essentially dead center of the #3 and #4 pushrod tubes (or between #3 and #4 piston). Because of the engine tin I cannot see well up in there nor is it visible from above.

I am in the process of pulling the engine (ran out of time yesterday), but once I get it down, what are my possible culprits???? Would appreciate your experience and guidance as this leak is too fast to continue driving the car on a regular basis and simply needs to be taken care of so I can daily drive my beetle again!

[vamram]

Cracked case...?
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[b15605]

I was afraid someone may say that - hoping for something less significant...

[Cusser]

Remember that a stock 1973 DP engine will have 4 oil cooler seals, 2 are under the little adapter. If mine, I would focus on those (replace all four) because you say the oil "pumps" out, not drips.
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[b15605]

I will definitely take a look once I get it out of the car; however, maybe a little more history is in order. I changed all of the oil cooler seals back in May, immediately after reassembly, started the engine and it leaked on the first go. Life got in the way, so it has been sitting since May until yesterday; with not seeing any oil from the oil cooler deck down to the barrels, I am reticent to believe this is my issue. Again, I will definitely look, but not thinking this is it.

[KTPhil]

Is there a galley plug in the area that might be leaking or even came out? This will become obvious when pulled and stripped.
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[jeffrey8164]

There’s a plug but it’s above #4 towards the pulley end.
Pull the cylinder tins on that side and try the test again.
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Turning owners into mechanics since 1938.

“Let he that is without oil throw the first rod”
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[viiking]

[b15605]

Got the left side torn down, but stumped as to the source of the leak. Here are a few pics.

I will try the propane torch but dont see anything indicating a crack in the block. What is that tab with the little silver looking plug - could this be an oil gallery route and the plug is leaking? How would one address that? Or is it possible to leak out of the threaded rods where they thread into the base? Suggestions welcomed. Remember, the source of the leak is below the oil cooler so I dont believe that is the problem.

I may be forced to reassemble without engine tin and put back in car so I can turnover the engine to pulp oil and see if I can see the source but hoping not to do this.

[67rustavenger]

That little silver bit is, an oil gallery plug. Yours does not appear to be leaking.

Depending on the case. Some of the head stud case savers can be open to the inside of the engine case and cause a leak through the inserts.

After seeing these pics, I suspect that the cylinder bases were not sealed and leaked from there. BTDT.
When installing cylinders, a fine bead of RTV around the cylinder base will seal the cylinder bases to the case cylinder spigots/registers.
What did you seal your cylinder bases with?
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[VW_Jimbo]

Rusty, there is evidence of Red RTV on the case and
studs. Blow up the picture just a bit. Took my eyes a few seconds to see it.

You might have oil wicking out of the case savers. Chased that once or twice. I always appt blue loctite to those studs before installing. I have also seen the case savers them selves leech oil. Again, I use red loctite on them when assembling.

Those are 2 spots that are hard to figure out and make no sense, because they have no pressurized oil directly against them. But that crankshaft real can fling stuff around!
_________________
Jimbo

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[67rustavenger]

I'm not totally disagreeing with you Jimbo.

If you look closely at the pic again and focus on the case savers. There is no evidence of RTV between the case register and the savers.

It's either a really good clean up before the pic was taken or, the red RTV on the head studs is left over from a previous build.

I'm just throwing my dumb ass observations out there as a possibility to why the oil is leaking in that area.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!
2003 Astrovan? GFYS again, Xevin!
Don't let your bad ideas remain, ideas!

[VW_Jimbo]

[b15605]

The rtv was put in on the base of the cylinders when I rebuilt this engine about 5 years back. When I pulled the cylinders this morning, most of the rtv stuck to the cylinders. What is on the studs is just oozing upon install.

I am leaning case savers/studs here. I can pull all the studs and put blue locktite in, but I am not sure I should screw with the case savers themselves? Not even sure how to remove them without damaging the case?

[67rustavenger]

Don't screw with the savers, just seal the stud threads.

But, since it's apart. Do look for any case cracks, just in case.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!
2003 Astrovan? GFYS again, Xevin!
Don't let your bad ideas remain, ideas!

[b15605]

Got the propane torch to light. Dont see any evidence of a cracked case. Off to town to buy some fresh blue threadlocker as I cant find mine and it is probably dried up if I did find it

[b15605]

Threadlocker applied. New rtv applied at base of cylinders. Heads all torqued on. I am thinking of putting the engine back in the car as a bare long block so I can roll the engine over with the starter for a minute or so to move oil around. Will this be fast enough to be able to check for a recurrence of the leak? Wont be hard to do and I think worth it. If it passes this test I will then pull engine and install tin etc so I can finally get back on the road

Thoughts?

[viiking]

[vamram]

Blowing up the one picture my eyes immediately go to this section on the rim of where the cylinder sits on the case. Is this this a deformity/damage or an optical illusion? If the former, it seems to me this is a potential spot for a leak.

_________________
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke
“If something cannot go on forever, it will stop.”
Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...languishing since 2022.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[b15605]

First, thanks for all the input so far.

After getting everything back together - fired it up and to my dismay same oil leak appeared. I cannot think of any other source now than a crack in the case so beginning to think about that parh now.

Question: i have an old case given to me. It appears fine. Should I send it off for inspection and line bore? Or should I just buy a new case? Aluminum or new magnesium? Would just be a stock build

Opinions and options welcomed