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Removing heater levers.
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Xevin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 9:42 am    Post subject: Removing heater levers. Reply with quote

I read some post (may have missed a few) but still can't figure an easy way to remove the plastic retainers from the levers. Just looking to replace the bulbs in the cluster. Had an extra dash from an early bay in my hands with levers still attached and still couldn't pop them out. So how the hell is it done. Should I wedge a blade in there and slice them off? Don't care about putting the plastic retainers in as one is missing already and slides out.
Is this in the Bentley. Can't find mine.
This stupid thing is kicking my ass. Feel dumber then I already am. Anyways have some time today needing some hand holding on this stupid task Evil or Very Mad
If you know of a good link or video doing this please let me know. I'm a visual learner. Thanks for putting up my lameness.

72 bus.
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kreemoweet
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After spending many frustrating and physically painful hours messing with those nasty plugs on a couple of busses, I decided enough
was enough, and ditched them. I don't exactly remember what I used, I think they were some very short barrel nuts & screws from a bicycle or
some such. That was just to keep the levers from coming apart. I removed the red&blue end caps, straightened out the L-bend at the
ends, and applied red or blue electrical tape as appropriate. My instrument panel now can be removed with no hassle whatever, a task
I seem to perform fairly frequently, and everytime I do so, I recall with a snort all the folks here lauding the stunning genius of the German VW engineers. This was on my '71 bus, I think later years had a somewhat different arrangement.

The Bentley won't help you, although they do have a picture of the evil things in Fig 10-1, Body and Frame chapter.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply. I have had this same thought. I pulled one of those barbed ends out of the rubber block. Then chickened out doing the others. Only because I knew that could not be the correct way. My thinking was VW must have a better and proper way to do this. But I'm not above doing this for future access to the cluster. Just want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious.
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71whitewesty
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done this. You can try using a small socket to push them out a 6 or 8mm I think works. It's a pain though and I would just break them off if needed. You don't need them in there as the spring clip will hold the levers in place just fine. You can also order new plastic things if you want.
Personally I would avoid bending and taking off the red and blue knobs, I am such a stock guy that the electrical tape on the ends would bug me.
Once those plastic things are off it's real easy to access anytime.
I found myself going WTF? at times while laying across the front floor.
You'll get it.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, a small socket pushed firmly does the trick; you must also provide a stable "normal force" to push back with. Something in the 4mm to 6mm range works well.

You don't NEED to reuse the plastic bushings, if you're the only one driving and you remember not to pull out on the levers as you operate them. That way you can quickly pull them out for maintenance. Far nicer than electrical tape...

Robbie
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Xevin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep 71ww saw that in another post. That's why I thought little blade to cut them out might be the way to go. Plenty of tension on the lever to hold in place. So why even have those stupid retaining bits. I was able to take the rubber block off and put back on successfully on one. Thinking if I used a heat gun to warm up the rubber would make it even easier. Think I will cut those little retainers out and leave them out. See who else chimes in with an idea first. I love to overthink things Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robbie, I like where this is going. When you all are talking about the socket. Are you referring to pulling the axle out with all the washers and stuff. If so I started to do this and thought those retainers would still be in the way and I would just screw something up. Then I thought why not just wedge a sharp blade and cut retainers out on one side and pop it out with a flat blade. If pulling the axle out is the way to go then. Hmmm
Good ideas guys. Thanks.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shoots forgot to ask. Should I also disconnect battery while doing this?
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Ahhh yes, the 73 only levers, I forgot about those, Karl comes through from the grave once again:

Karl wrote:
Get rid of the 68-72 spring clips and find 4 73 only spring clips. This way you do not need the pins. The levers slide in and click in place like 74-79 levers do. You will need to find 2 73 buses because 73 went to 2 red and 1 blue instead of 2 and 2. The clips look like these:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The clip on the left is 68-72. It uses the stupid pin.

The clip on the right is 73 only.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Way back in '88 or '89, when I first got my '72 Bus, I had to do this, took out the plastic plugs, and left it that way. The original spring plates hold just fine; it takes a couple pounds pressure to pull them out, and they easily reinsert. Confusing to me why you'd bolt the damn things in, or tape up the (hard to find) levers?!?!?!
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Xevin wrote:
Robbie, I like where this is going. When you all are talking about the socket. Are you referring to pulling the axle out with all the washers and stuff. If so I started to do this and thought those retainers would still be in the way and I would just screw something up. Then I thought why not just wedge a sharp blade and cut retainers out on one side and pop it out with a flat blade. If pulling the axle out is the way to go then. Hmmm
Good ideas guys. Thanks.

Don't take out the pivot bolts, you'll have a huge mess on your hands.

He means the correctly sized small socket slips over the end of the plastic clip and compresses the tabs as it forces itself on pushing the clip out in the process, easy if the radio is out, even easier if the glovebox is out too.

And do disconnect the battery, when one of those metal shims falls out and lands on the hazard switch it gets real exciting fast!
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another vote for not putting the plugs back in. My 70's handles are held in w/just the spring plate. They are very secure and I'm the only driver.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The white plastic pin.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the plastic plugs are cheap enough: https://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw-parts/defr...1259377-pr
You still couldn't pay me to put them back in, though.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just pulled the damn knobs off and bent the shit out of the levers. Now I just cuss the levers every time I turn on the heat Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well. Thanks for all the tips guys. I feel a little better about myself knowing that this job has been a PITA to others. My buddy and I started to cut the plastic bushings out but really need to get a better tool to do it. And or just commit to taking radio/ glove box as mentioned. But for one burnt out little bulb not worth it at this point. This was taking to much time away from things that really need to get done.

We did fix the issue of my reverse lights not working. That issue came from the switch underneath the bus. I would have never thought a switch on the bottom
of the bus even existed. I love learning stuff like this. I'm pretty darn fortunate to have a group of guys in the PNW teach me stuff.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another option for the lazy in the house (count me in!) is the anodized aluminum knobs that come in black, chrome, or shiny red/blue. I think JustKampers sells them. Mine came with my bus new in the box because the PO couldn't figure out how to take the plastic clips out. Laughing

Removal for dash work is four Allen screws, AND I keep the plastic pins so nobody pulls my levers out when I give special passengers permission to adjust their vent.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.mcjproducts.com/collections/bay-bus-products

MJC Products: US Distributor
http://www.piersideparts.net/MCJ.html
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 7:59 am    Post subject: Re: Removing heater levers. Reply with quote

Just used this info on a 71. Used a pair of cutter pliers or a small flat head to pry the flat side of the plastic clip out and was able to save all 4 if the owner so desired.


He did not. Laughing


But the next time wont take nearly as long at least Wink
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