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I am Wildcat Samba Member

Joined: February 03, 2011 Posts: 318 Location: SF Bay Area
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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:02 pm Post subject: Converting 220V European Vanagon to 110V American Standard |
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Anybody with some electrical expertise know about converting 220V to 110V systems? I do not have any experience with working with electricity, so if this job would be too complex for someone with no electrical work experience, please feel free to let me know that as well. Thanks! |
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78BayDriver Samba Member

Joined: September 27, 2007 Posts: 247
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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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Change the outside plug to a US plug. Then find yourself a nice inverter and wire it in. Should be easy... _________________ 1987 Vanagon GL 2.1 Flat Stanley (present)
1991 Golf GTi Forest Green
1981 Vanagon L 1.6 Diesel
1978 BayWindow Bus
1974 Bus
1990 Jetta
1979 Dasher Wagon
1972 Beetle |
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I am Wildcat Samba Member

Joined: February 03, 2011 Posts: 318 Location: SF Bay Area
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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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I thought it may be that easy, but wasn't sure if the wiring itself would be different (i.e. different gauge wire for 220V vs. 110V). |
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OddN Samba Member

Joined: August 19, 2010 Posts: 690 Location: Northern Norway
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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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How hard would it be to get hold of all the corresponding 110V parts ? If Im not mistaken, all that runs on 220V on a euro model is the battery charger and the fridge. And you probably dont need to change the entire fridge, only the 220V specific parts. _________________ 1991 VW Multivan syncro 1,9 TD |
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I am Wildcat Samba Member

Joined: February 03, 2011 Posts: 318 Location: SF Bay Area
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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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We've got a fridge that runs on 12v off an aux. battery. I was mainly looking to change out the power outlet on the inside/outside for when connected to shore power. |
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GrindGarage Samba Member

Joined: October 14, 2008 Posts: 710 Location: Ocean City, NJ
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I am Wildcat Samba Member

Joined: February 03, 2011 Posts: 318 Location: SF Bay Area
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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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Awesome! You guys are great! |
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jbell Samba Member

Joined: October 13, 2006 Posts: 30
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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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I convered my Euro spec Westy from 220 to to standard 110.
1. I removed the 220 battery charger and replaced it with a 110 unit
2. I changed the inside pin type plug (close to the breakers) to a standard grounded plug.
3. The outside power conector is of very high quality so I kept it. I simply bought a good outside 12 ga extension cord and cut off the female end. Then connect the euro female end to it.
Good Luck,
John _________________ 1984 Westy Joker 1.6 NA Diesel, 5 sp |
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beelzibus Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2005 Posts: 300
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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Old thread I know, but I run a NA Syncro Westy over here in the UK, it's currently getting a makeover which is including the fitment of 230V sockets and the like to the inside, it means I have the NA 110V sockets and breaker available if they're of any use to anyone, also I could do with a Euro 230V charger if anyone has one that's no use to them. |
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MsTaboo  Samba Member

Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4581 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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Old tread, but same task.
I'm converting a 220v european camper to NA 110v.
I have changed the outside plug, and have wired in a 110v charger/converter.
That part is fine. However, there needs to be a breaker in-between the outside plug and the inside use.
My question is the circuit breaker. Can I still use the 220v breaker?
As I understand it, 220v has two live wires (110v each) and the neutral. Our 110v has a live feed and a return, plus a ground.
Will the 220v breaker work for 110v? If so, how do I wire it?
Thanks! _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
When you stir up shit you're bound to get some on yourself.
Resist Kleptocratic Oligarchy (and Idiocracy)! |
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ALIKA T3 Samba Member

Joined: July 30, 2009 Posts: 7267 Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:36 pm Post subject: |
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MsTaboo wrote: |
Old tread, but same task.
I'm converting a 220v european camper to NA 110v.
I have changed the outside plug, and have wired in a 110v charger/converter.
That part is fine. However, there needs to be a breaker in-between the outside plug and the inside use.
My question is the circuit breaker. Can I still use the 220v breaker?
As I understand it, 220v has two live wires (110v each) and the neutral. Our 110v has a live feed and a return, plus a ground.
Will the 220v breaker work for 110v? If so, how do I wire it?
Thanks! |
22O european has 3 wires:a phase (live) a neutral (blue) and a ground (green/yellow)
I dunno about breaker,read on the side what's stamped on it,specifications and amperage  _________________ Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget |
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goffoz Samba Member
Joined: May 09, 2007 Posts: 1486
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Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 7:31 am Post subject: |
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MsTaboo wrote: |
As I understand it, 220v has two live wires (110v each) and the neutral. Our 110v has a live feed and a return, plus a ground.
Will the 220v breaker work for 110v? If so, how do I wire it?
Thanks! |
220V elsewhere in the world is 3wire just like here.(your colors may vary) the breaker will work,amps might be too low...but lower is safer
The 2 live wire method ,is used here in US. to get 220V from a 110V domestic panel
....doesn't apply to your van  |
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tencentlife Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2006 Posts: 10149 Location: Abiquiu, NM, USA
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Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 9:16 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
As I understand it, 220v has two live wires (110v each) and the neutral. |
US (and I presume Canadian) standard house wiring which you are describing is called "split-phase", it is 110/220v (actually 117/234v if you want to be exact). The two hot wires are each at 117vac to ground, but are 180ยบ out of phase. So either wire's potential to the neutral wire is 117v, while the potential between the two hots is 234v due to their phases being deliberately not in sync. When used for 220v service the neutral carries no current.
That's not the same as the 220v spec in many other parts of the world where the single hot is at 220v potential to ground, like a single hot is at 110v above ground here in North America.
Both systems include a separate equipment-grounding wire (bare or green-covered by US code) which should always be at zero potential and only made common with the neutral conductor at a single point, which done properly is at the service panel. How you handle this wire for safety depends on how the service you are connecting to has handled it; if, as is proper, the neutral and equipment grounding conductors are tied together at the service panel in an RV park, then you must keep your neutral conductor isolated from the van chassis. _________________ Shop for unique and useful Vanagon accessories at the Vanistan shop:
https://intrepidoverland.com/vanistan/
also available at VanCafe.com!
Please don't PM here, I will not reply.
Experience is death to doctrine. |
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MsTaboo  Samba Member

Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4581 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 11:14 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the replies. I've been busy trying to get the van ready for a quick trip to Montana.
Yes, I got the 220v european system mixed up with NA's 220v system.
Three wires, blue one carrying 220v live, brown for neutral, and yellow/green for ground.
The van came with breaker/on-off switch box which is grounded to the van body at the same point as our NA vans. And each blue and brown wires going through the on/off switch. Not sure how the breaker trips.
I'm thinking of just using one side of the switch. I'll run the blue wire through the breaker/switch and just bypass the brown wire.
The plan of course is to make the setup the same as our NA vans. I'll acquire a 110v breaker asap. _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
When you stir up shit you're bound to get some on yourself.
Resist Kleptocratic Oligarchy (and Idiocracy)! |
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dipple Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2005 Posts: 135 Location: Whistler BC
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Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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I am currently seeking a solution to the same problem and would love to see the what people have done. I was planning on replacing with the setup from a NA van but would prefer to keep the existing if possible especially the connection at the hook up. Thanks _________________ 1987 Syncro
1998 Syncro TDI Passat |
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AdrianC Samba Member

Joined: January 13, 2012 Posts: 526 Location: Wherever the road's gone
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Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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MsTaboo wrote: |
Not sure how the breaker trips. |
It's an RCD - Residual Current Device - breaker. Same kind of thing people used to plug their electric hedgetrimmers into, ready for when they cut the orange branch... Both live and neutral go through it, because when it trips, it cuts both. _________________ Adrian
Zookeeper of a miscellany of motoring silliness, from 0.75bhp to 9ft tall.
Living life on the road in an '88 2.1DJ Westfalia Club Joker Hightop.
www.WhereverTheRoadGoes.com |
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alain riaud Samba Member
Joined: October 13, 2011 Posts: 172 Location: France
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Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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I shipped my european van , temporarily, to US for a three month trip.
It's not a westy, just a home made camper.
I rely on a charger, a deep cycle battery and a 12V/240V inverter.
I just bought a 110v Charger ( I could have bought a 110/240V transformer instead) and a set of European male plus, US female plug. That's it.
Ther is another issue with cooking fuel, I'm butane based, unavailable in US. |
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MsTaboo  Samba Member

Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4581 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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AdrianC wrote: |
MsTaboo wrote: |
Not sure how the breaker trips. |
It's an RCD - Residual Current Device - breaker. Same kind of thing people used to plug their electric hedgetrimmers into, ready for when they cut the orange branch... Both live and neutral go through it, because when it trips, it cuts both. |
Thanks Adrian,
I hooked it up stock. Seems to work fine. New charger is humming (silently) away.
What would be a safe way to test the breaker? _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
When you stir up shit you're bound to get some on yourself.
Resist Kleptocratic Oligarchy (and Idiocracy)! |
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AdrianC Samba Member

Joined: January 13, 2012 Posts: 526 Location: Wherever the road's gone
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2013 1:01 am Post subject: |
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MsTaboo wrote: |
What would be a safe way to test the breaker? |
Press the test button on the front. _________________ Adrian
Zookeeper of a miscellany of motoring silliness, from 0.75bhp to 9ft tall.
Living life on the road in an '88 2.1DJ Westfalia Club Joker Hightop.
www.WhereverTheRoadGoes.com |
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MsTaboo  Samba Member

Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4581 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2013 8:37 am Post subject: |
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AdrianC wrote: |
MsTaboo wrote: |
What would be a safe way to test the breaker? |
Press the test button on the front. |
Umm, yes. Actually I was thinking more the idea of tripping it by force to determine whether it would react to 110v. _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
When you stir up shit you're bound to get some on yourself.
Resist Kleptocratic Oligarchy (and Idiocracy)! |
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