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Converting 220V European Vanagon to 110V American Standard
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I am Wildcat
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:02 pm    Post subject: Converting 220V European Vanagon to 110V American Standard Reply with quote

Anybody with some electrical expertise know about converting 220V to 110V systems? I do not have any experience with working with electricity, so if this job would be too complex for someone with no electrical work experience, please feel free to let me know that as well. Thanks!
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78BayDriver
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Change the outside plug to a US plug. Then find yourself a nice inverter and wire it in. Should be easy...
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I am Wildcat
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought it may be that easy, but wasn't sure if the wiring itself would be different (i.e. different gauge wire for 220V vs. 110V).
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How hard would it be to get hold of all the corresponding 110V parts ? If Im not mistaken, all that runs on 220V on a euro model is the battery charger and the fridge. And you probably dont need to change the entire fridge, only the 220V specific parts.
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I am Wildcat
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We've got a fridge that runs on 12v off an aux. battery. I was mainly looking to change out the power outlet on the inside/outside for when connected to shore power.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like 3 wire like ours live neutral ground... just change the hardware leave the wiring.

good reading:

http://users.telenet.be/worldstandards/electricity.htm#voltage
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I am Wildcat
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome! You guys are great!
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I convered my Euro spec Westy from 220 to to standard 110.
1. I removed the 220 battery charger and replaced it with a 110 unit
2. I changed the inside pin type plug (close to the breakers) to a standard grounded plug.
3. The outside power conector is of very high quality so I kept it. I simply bought a good outside 12 ga extension cord and cut off the female end. Then connect the euro female end to it.

Good Luck,

John
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old thread I know, but I run a NA Syncro Westy over here in the UK, it's currently getting a makeover which is including the fitment of 230V sockets and the like to the inside, it means I have the NA 110V sockets and breaker available if they're of any use to anyone, also I could do with a Euro 230V charger if anyone has one that's no use to them.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old tread, but same task.
I'm converting a 220v european camper to NA 110v.
I have changed the outside plug, and have wired in a 110v charger/converter.
That part is fine. However, there needs to be a breaker in-between the outside plug and the inside use.
My question is the circuit breaker. Can I still use the 220v breaker?
As I understand it, 220v has two live wires (110v each) and the neutral. Our 110v has a live feed and a return, plus a ground.

Will the 220v breaker work for 110v? If so, how do I wire it?

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MsTaboo wrote:
Old tread, but same task.
I'm converting a 220v european camper to NA 110v.
I have changed the outside plug, and have wired in a 110v charger/converter.
That part is fine. However, there needs to be a breaker in-between the outside plug and the inside use.
My question is the circuit breaker. Can I still use the 220v breaker?
As I understand it, 220v has two live wires (110v each) and the neutral. Our 110v has a live feed and a return, plus a ground.

Will the 220v breaker work for 110v? If so, how do I wire it?

Thanks!


22O european has 3 wires:a phase (live) a neutral (blue) and a ground (green/yellow)

I dunno about breaker,read on the side what's stamped on it,specifications and amperage Wink
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MsTaboo wrote:

As I understand it, 220v has two live wires (110v each) and the neutral. Our 110v has a live feed and a return, plus a ground.

Will the 220v breaker work for 110v? If so, how do I wire it?

Thanks!

220V elsewhere in the world is 3wire just like here.(your colors may vary) the breaker will work,amps might be too low...but lower is safer Smile

The 2 live wire method ,is used here in US. to get 220V from a 110V domestic panel
....doesn't apply to your van Smile
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
As I understand it, 220v has two live wires (110v each) and the neutral.


US (and I presume Canadian) standard house wiring which you are describing is called "split-phase", it is 110/220v (actually 117/234v if you want to be exact). The two hot wires are each at 117vac to ground, but are 180ยบ out of phase. So either wire's potential to the neutral wire is 117v, while the potential between the two hots is 234v due to their phases being deliberately not in sync. When used for 220v service the neutral carries no current.

That's not the same as the 220v spec in many other parts of the world where the single hot is at 220v potential to ground, like a single hot is at 110v above ground here in North America.

Both systems include a separate equipment-grounding wire (bare or green-covered by US code) which should always be at zero potential and only made common with the neutral conductor at a single point, which done properly is at the service panel. How you handle this wire for safety depends on how the service you are connecting to has handled it; if, as is proper, the neutral and equipment grounding conductors are tied together at the service panel in an RV park, then you must keep your neutral conductor isolated from the van chassis.
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. I've been busy trying to get the van ready for a quick trip to Montana.

Yes, I got the 220v european system mixed up with NA's 220v system.
Three wires, blue one carrying 220v live, brown for neutral, and yellow/green for ground.
The van came with breaker/on-off switch box which is grounded to the van body at the same point as our NA vans. And each blue and brown wires going through the on/off switch. Not sure how the breaker trips.

I'm thinking of just using one side of the switch. I'll run the blue wire through the breaker/switch and just bypass the brown wire.
The plan of course is to make the setup the same as our NA vans. I'll acquire a 110v breaker asap.
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am currently seeking a solution to the same problem and would love to see the what people have done. I was planning on replacing with the setup from a NA van but would prefer to keep the existing if possible especially the connection at the hook up. Thanks
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MsTaboo wrote:
Not sure how the breaker trips.


It's an RCD - Residual Current Device - breaker. Same kind of thing people used to plug their electric hedgetrimmers into, ready for when they cut the orange branch... Both live and neutral go through it, because when it trips, it cuts both.
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I shipped my european van , temporarily, to US for a three month trip.
It's not a westy, just a home made camper.
I rely on a charger, a deep cycle battery and a 12V/240V inverter.
I just bought a 110v Charger ( I could have bought a 110/240V transformer instead) and a set of European male plus, US female plug. That's it.
Ther is another issue with cooking fuel, I'm butane based, unavailable in US.
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AdrianC wrote:
MsTaboo wrote:
Not sure how the breaker trips.


It's an RCD - Residual Current Device - breaker. Same kind of thing people used to plug their electric hedgetrimmers into, ready for when they cut the orange branch... Both live and neutral go through it, because when it trips, it cuts both.


Thanks Adrian,
I hooked it up stock. Seems to work fine. New charger is humming (silently) away.
What would be a safe way to test the breaker?
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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MsTaboo wrote:
What would be a safe way to test the breaker?


Press the test button on the front.
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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AdrianC wrote:
MsTaboo wrote:
What would be a safe way to test the breaker?


Press the test button on the front.


Umm, yes. Actually I was thinking more the idea of tripping it by force to determine whether it would react to 110v.
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