ICT carb doesn't respond

[Daddylolo]

Yesterday I made a change on the jetting on the new Weber ICT on my 2L type 4 engine. I got myself a complete set from these guys in England Wayout Westie witch consists of Main 165, Air 185, Idle 55, Emulsion F6, Float 150. I'm in the way of also adding a Malpassi regulator.

Before starting I changed plugs and points so to avoid any electrical issue and also gave a valve setting.

When starting it was impossible to down set the idle needle on the right carb so, to be sure it was from the carbs I traded the right one to the left one and so, but now the problem went to the left side so it is this carb! I took the carb off, opened, stripped it and gave a air clean , passed some copper wires trough jets to get rid if any dirt but, when back in place all the same.

The engine shakes and I hear some explosions on the left carb on accelerating even with both carbs air flow and linkages properly balanced.

I'm a bit puzzled with this and so I ask some advice on what to do next.
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'70 hot rod bug
'77 hawaiian bay van
'46 Buick Eight
'67 Ghia

[buckswilde]

Are they new carbs? Throttle shaft busing wear out on older used ones so even with a basic rebuild kit you can get un-metered air, messing everything up.

[SGKent]

perhaps there is an external port that is open and needs something on it to plug it.

Are these new to the bus carbs?
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[Daddylolo]

[SGKent]

[airschooled]

You've set the linkage by the Wayout Westie instructions, correct?

Popping on acceleration can be linkage synchronization related.

Robbie
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[69BahamaYellow]

When I put new Weber 34ICT carbs on a friend’s 2.0 bus, I found them to be very sensitive to throttle linkage issues. You need each carb to open exactly the same and you need the linkage and throttle cable to operate smoothly and return to the exact same position every time you lift off the throttle. The first 5% of throttle opening is extremely important to get consistent; otherwise you will never get rid of the surging, and popping. Get this right and follow the idle mixture and speed settings, as Wayout Westy prescribed and the carbs run very nicely. Even without chokes, they run well in winter or summer. Not as good as fuel injection, but not far from it.

[timvw7476]

they usually require a feeler gauge, .004", set into the throttle bore, then set the actual gap using the idle screw on the carb.
The mixture screw, 2 turns out to start.
After the carbs are bolted on you don't touch the idle screws at all, just turn the mixture screws at the carb bases, that's it. Other than distributor timing, do check that that's in spec or you get confused with ICTs.

It might be time to unthread the idle mixture screws & compare them, and the seats they run into. Also the jet holder on each, big brass screw, the jet pops into it & then the screw gets screwed down gently, it's actually a jet holder, if either of those big 0-ring sealed screws are loose, they dump a ton of fuel around the jet. Fast idle time when that happens. Time to double check all of it.........
edit: also, the gaskets between the heads & intake manifolds, those get blown out over time from intake nuts getting loose from vibration & heat. Check those nuts & gaskets are tight & intact, that cause alot of pops & crackles, I've changes a few pairs of gaskets over the years & found loose nuts. : (