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nlorntson Crazy VW Lady

Joined: March 13, 2004 Posts: 3835 Location: Twin Cities, MN
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Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 1:38 pm Post subject: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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I thought I'd put together a How To for the split and oval rear axle seal replacement. This is for the style of bearing retainers with the lip on the cap which is technically all the way up to split case 1957 I believe.
If your axle tube has the lip shown in the picture and the matching lip on the bearing cap, this is for you. Another hint is that your paper seals that come in the kit will not fit on the face of the axle tube because the lip is too large in diameter for the paper gasket to fit over. On this version, the paper gasket is not used at all.
First piece to go on is the inner bearing spacer, it has a flat side and a tapered side. The tapered side is round and serves to fit nicely against the curved base of the axle. The other side is flat and gives the inner race of the bearing a flat surface to rest on.
Next, the large ball bearing goes on (SKF 6306). Slide it on over the splines as far as you can with your fingers then use a drift and a hammer to carefully tap on the inner race to drive it down. Do not tap on the outer race! Work around the inner race at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock tapping. You must move around the race to keep the bearing from getting cocked on the axle shaft.
As the bearing gets closer to the axle tube, position the tube so the outer race of the bearing can slip into the opening in the axle tube. Keep tapping that inner race until the sound and feel change telling you it is fully seated. Approximately two thirds the width of the bearing should be sticking out of the axle tube.
Next, I put a thin smear of black RTV sealer on the axle tube outside of the flange. The backing plate will seal to this surface. This is not a mandatory step, but this can be a leak spot so no harm in doing so.
Now the backing plate can go on. Be sure the back surface is clean and dry. I assembled the brakes on the backing plate first but you may find it easier to do that once the backing plate is bolted to the axle. Either way, be sure to properly orient the backing plate so the brake cylinder is in the right position for your application. It will be either at 12 or 6 o'clock.
Slip the backing plate so it is over the flange and sitting flush on the axle tube surface where the black RTV was smeared. You can see the flange in the picture between the outer race and the backing plate.
Next on is the small washer. It sits right on the bearing inner race.
Next is the large O-ring. Carefully slip it over the outer race of the bearing so it sits in that gap between the outer race and the backing plate, right over the flange.
Next on is the bearing cap. You should have already installed the wheel seal into the bearing cap so the outer surface is full seated in the cap. You'll notice the outer edge of the seal edge of the seal rests on a lip inside the bearing cap. The seal must be fully seated against this lip.
Notice the matching lip on the outer edge of the bearing cap. This surface is going to squeeze the large o-ring against the axle tube lip to create the main seal around the bearing.
I put a bit of bearing grease on the inside of the bearing cap seal so the outer spacer slips in smoothly. I also put a bit of black RTV on the outer surface of the bearing cap, outside of the lip. Again, this is not required but can help prevent leaks.
Next, bolt down the bearing cap. There are special bolts and spring washers you should use. Don't use others, and don't use non spring washers. Torque these four bolts to 43 ft lb.
Next is the small o-ring. You can certainly install this over the outer washer before the bearing cap and seal are put on, but I like to use the thick outer spacer to push it evenly down the splined shaft.
Next is the thick outer spacer. This also has a flat side and a tapered side. The tapered side goes toward the small o-ring to make the inner seal of the axle. The brake drum puts pressure on the spacer and thus the small o-ring which is why you may have leaks until your brake drum is fully torqued.
The blue seal rides on the thick outer spacer so it is important that the surface is as glassy smooth and free from any distortions as possible. If not, over time, the inner lip on the blue seal will be torn or worn away and you'll get some leaking.
Some folks prefer to place the outer spacer inside the blue seal before slipping the whole works on the splined shaft. This is fine too, just be sure to put a thin layer of grease on the outer spacer and have that small o-ring in place.
Even after all the seals and RTV, some small amount of transmission oil may weep past all these seals. This is why the oil slinger is needed on the drum. Be sure it is installed, and oil can get out the tube. If It's missing, the oil will get sprayed on the shoes and drums.
Slip on the drum and tighten the castle nut to 217 ft lbs. Go a tad bit tighter (rather than looser) if you need to orient the nut to be able to install the large cotter pin. Of course, do the final tightening when the car is off the jack and on the ground. Do not use an impact wrench to tighten this nut! Do not guess at the torque. Drop some coin on a good torque wrench.
Happy driving 
Last edited by nlorntson on Wed Jan 17, 2018 8:28 pm; edited 6 times in total |
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Ovally Samba Member

Joined: June 14, 2014 Posts: 491 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 11:04 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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Perfect, thanks!
""Slip on the drum and tighten the castle nut to 253 ft lbs.""
I thought it was 217 ft lbs for Split and Oval and then a bit tighter to be able to install the large cotter pin.Never had problems.
Regards. |
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62ItalianRagtop Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2007 Posts: 1356 Location: Italy
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Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 4:30 am Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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Wow ... thank you very much for this HOW TO _________________ LOOKING FOR 62 ENGINE WITH NUMBER FROM 6.904.xxx TO 6.915.xxx
http://tettodistraccio.blogspot.com/ |
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Ovally Samba Member

Joined: June 14, 2014 Posts: 491 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:46 am Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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Repair manual VW Bug, torque specification for the castle nut : swing axle 217 ft lbs, irs axle 253 ft lbs.
If it is necessary : both a bit tighter to be able to install the large cotter pin.
Regards |
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nlorntson Crazy VW Lady

Joined: March 13, 2004 Posts: 3835 Location: Twin Cities, MN
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Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:58 am Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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Torque value is updated above. Too much work on buses lately
Thanks! |
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BulliBill Samba Member

Joined: July 09, 2004 Posts: 4694 Location: St Charles, MO
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Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:30 am Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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Really nice and illustrated "how-to" Nancy (and Dick). Always helpful to see it in great photos and explanation.
Bill Bowman _________________ I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton
Thanks for any help! |
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nlorntson Crazy VW Lady

Joined: March 13, 2004 Posts: 3835 Location: Twin Cities, MN
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Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 12:30 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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BulliBill wrote: |
Really nice and illustrated "how-to" Nancy (and Dick). Always helpful to see it in great photos and explanation.
Bill Bowman |
Thanks Bill.
No hubby involved in this project.
He stays far away from the mechanical side of our restorations, and I stay equally far away from the metalwork, welding, and rust repair. It's a match made in heaven..
He probably doesn't have any idea what car this tranny is for or that this thread exists.  |
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txoval Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2004 Posts: 3755 Location: The Woodlands, TX
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Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 1:20 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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Just one tip, RTV sealants very greatly. Black is a good choice, but they do make a gray specifically for gear oil.
Always make sure you have matching axle tubes and bearing caps. A lot of times you’ll see these mixed up, my 54 had bearing caps from a 58+ car. Finding the early caps can be a chore, but make all the difference in the world when it comes to annoying leaks.
This post is awesome and perfect for the early cars |
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Nevohteeb Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016 Posts: 33 Location: France
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Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 4:05 am Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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nlorntson wrote: |
First piece to go on is the inner bearing spacer, it has a flat side and a tapered side. The tapered side is round and serves to fit nicely against the curved base of the axle. The other side is flat and gives the inner race of the bearing a flat surface to rest on.
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Hello everyone,
I have a question about those two pictures.
As you say, the flat side of the inner spacer should fit the inner race of the bearing. To do so, the inner spacer should be flush mounted to the tube, which doesn't seem to be the case on the picture.
I have the same problem on my car : if I let the tube on vertical position for mounting facility (and for the health of my back ) the axle goes down in such a way the inner spacer is a little bit inside the tube (maybe 1 millimeter or so just like on tour picture) and then there would be a little gap between it and the bearing.
Ho to avoid that? Does it fit well once we torque the cover or something? |
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nlorntson Crazy VW Lady

Joined: March 13, 2004 Posts: 3835 Location: Twin Cities, MN
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Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 6:04 am Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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Nevohteeb wrote: |
Hello everyone,
I have a question about those two pictures.
As you say, the flat side of the inner spacer should fit the inner race of the bearing. To do so, the inner spacer should be flush mounted to the tube, which doesn't seem to be the case on the picture.
I have the same problem on my car : if I let the tube on vertical position for mounting facility (and for the health of my back ) the axle goes down in such a way the inner spacer is a little bit inside the tube (maybe 1 millimeter or so just like on tour picture) and then there would be a little gap between it and the bearing.
Ho to avoid that? Does it fit well once we torque the cover or something? |
The tube and thus the bearing retainer can side in and out on the axle shaft until everything is bolted together and properly torqued. Don't worry that the picture appears to show the spacer inset to the retainer. If I were to push down on the retainer the spacer would appear to be higher than the retainer. |
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Nevohteeb Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016 Posts: 33 Location: France
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Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 6:11 am Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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nlorntson wrote: |
The tube and thus the bearing retainer can side in and out on the axle shaft until everything is bolted together and properly torqued. |
Thx for the answer. That's something I missed so far. |
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jason Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2002 Posts: 3457 Location: Garage
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Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 7:36 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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Use some oil on the orings, will help with seating. They won’t hangup. |
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D. Haviland Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 536 Location: Burlington, Vermont
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Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2020 12:09 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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I grease the spacer before I put it through the seal. Such an archaic set-up. It always amazes me that they don't crap out quicker than they do. |
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Nevohteeb Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016 Posts: 33 Location: France
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Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2020 12:33 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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D. Haviland wrote: |
I grease the spacer before I put it through the seal. |
Inner diameter or outer diameter? I guess it's the outer diameter such that it turns with the axe.
D. Haviland wrote: |
Such an archaic set-up. It always amazes me that they don't crap out quicker than they do. |
That may sounds stupid but I started my bug restoration to learn things. And as I dismantle and rebuild things, I'm always asking to myself "how did a 70 years ago engineer get to this specific solution?" And I love that. 
Last edited by Nevohteeb on Thu Apr 09, 2020 12:55 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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jason Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2002 Posts: 3457 Location: Garage
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Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2020 12:53 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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Oil on the lips of the seal too. Just a little to keep it from burning. I dont want grease flinging off in there. |
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kwalker Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 31 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2020 7:40 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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I have a long breaker bar. I (now) weigh 150 lbs. So for 217 ft lbs I out the closest edge of my shoe 1.45 ft out from the center point of the breaker bar/socket. I then slowly step on the bar (when it is parallel to the ground). DO NOT JUMP on it! Logically that SHOULD be the required torque. I sometimes slowly step off of the bar and then slowly back on just to be sure it actually is at that torque.
Thoughts? |
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nlorntson Crazy VW Lady

Joined: March 13, 2004 Posts: 3835 Location: Twin Cities, MN
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Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2020 7:42 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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kwalker wrote: |
I have a long breaker bar. I (now) weigh 150 lbs. So for 217 ft lbs I out the closest edge of my shoe 1.45 ft out from the center point of the breaker bar/socket. I then slowly step on the bar (when it is parallel to the ground). DO NOT JUMP on it! Logically that SHOULD be the required torque. I sometimes slowly step off of the bar and then slowly back on just to be sure it actually is at that torque.
Thoughts? |
Borrow a torque wrench from your local FLAPS? |
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EverettB  Administrator

Joined: April 11, 2000 Posts: 70892 Location: Phoenix 602
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Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2020 9:26 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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kwalker wrote: |
I have a long breaker bar. I (now) weigh 150 lbs. So for 217 ft lbs I out the closest edge of my shoe 1.45 ft out from the center point of the breaker bar/socket. I then slowly step on the bar (when it is parallel to the ground). DO NOT JUMP on it! Logically that SHOULD be the required torque. I sometimes slowly step off of the bar and then slowly back on just to be sure it actually is at that torque.
Thoughts? |
Yes, I have used this method and it works fine.
The hole lines up for me and I've never had any issues. _________________ How to Post Photos
Everett Barnes - [email protected] | My wanted ads
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Got_Air Samba Member

Joined: April 10, 2020 Posts: 5 Location: Atlanta, GA
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Posted: Mon May 25, 2020 6:56 am Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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This is amazing! I have really struggled with this. Thanks for the step by step. Very helpful! |
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Nevohteeb Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016 Posts: 33 Location: France
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Posted: Mon May 25, 2020 6:58 am Post subject: Re: How To: Split and oval rear wheel seal installation |
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I forgot to answer, but indeed I managed to rebuild everything following your method.
Pretty straightforward. |
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