My first engine removal........questions

[crankbait09]

ya, I'd agree with that. I certainly didn't think that it would be off that much.
I shouldn't complain, but now I can proceed.
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1963 Ragtop

[Dangermouse]

Check that the preheat tube is clear on your new old manifold. That's one advantage of an aftermarket part, if you can get it to fit; the tubes are clear. On an original part the tubes are more likely to be blocked up with carbon and rust and you need that tube to be free flowing.
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Do not follow me, for I may not lead. Do not lead me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either; actually just bugger off and stand over there will you.

[crankbait09]

Ya, the tubes are all clear. The seller cleared them for me 😁
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1963 Ragtop

[crankbait09]

Next issue.
I prematurely tightened down the manifold, and when it came time to install the muffler, obviously the manifold needed to be loosened in order to do so. As I loosened the manifold, I was loosening the nut and as it unscrewed, I couldn't figure out why the nut location was not changing. But it was loosening. Come to find out, the stud was coming out of the head. The stud is pretty gnarled, and I'm not sure why.The second stud on this head has a very slight jiggle to it, but the nut came off that one. The other head set of studs were flawless and everything came off as expected.

Here are pictures of the head and the damaged stud.

QUESTION #1: how do I get new studs? Assuming they get installed using the jam nut procedure?

QUESTION #2: why would this have happened? It seemed the nuts went on smoothly.

I inspected the gaskets that were in place, and it looked to be "crushed" evenly all the way around.

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1963 Ragtop

[Eric&Barb]

[crankbait09]

wait, you can seriously buy those studs to replace those? I figured it would have been a specialty item, that would be hard to come by, that was going to cost an arm and a leg.

well, that over torque could be the reason...easily. Since it is impossible for me to get a torque wrench on it, I wrenched it super tight to make sure the manifold was sealing tightly.

if i am seeing it right, the stud i need is a N144013 (M6x31) - for some reason it shows an "X" in the type and engine model it will fit. thats based off the engine parts list.
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1963 Ragtop

[67rustavenger]

Yes. Nothing special about those intake manifold studs.
Go to Ace Hardware and get another. Maybe two. I always over buy so I have spares. They likely cost around $3.99 each.
Just be careful with the new ones. You just need to crush the intake manifold gasket. Not pull the stud through the manifold.

You're likely going to need a new set of intake gaskets. When you reinstall the intake manifold.
If you don't have any spares. PM me. I'll mail you a new set for nothing. I have several sets.

Good Luck.
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Eric&Barb]

Next time tighten down one of the easy to reach fasteners with a torque wrench. Then using an open or closed (the latter is preferred) wrench to loosen the fastener about 1/6 to 1/2 turn after noting where the starting point you loosened it from. Then tighten the fastener, and feel how much pressure it takes with your finger tips to get the fastener back to the same tightened location. Your hand should be pretty well calibrated for at least the next few minutes...

Yes, a good quality stud will do the job, or buy a length of all thread, cut to length, and file a chamfer on each end, to do the job.

If you want to spend more $$:

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=vw+N144013&t=canonical&ia=web
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[crankbait09]

I did find a pack of 10 of those studs on ebay for $9.50. Who knows when I'll eff it up again

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Stud-Pack-939M0631-N1...1438.l2649

Why is the center of those studs bare, meaning no threads? What's the reason?
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1963 Ragtop

[Eric&Barb]

[crankbait09]

[Eric&Barb]

[crankbait09]

[crankbait09]

another question.

I got the muffler put back on, and tightened everything up.
I noticed where the heater boxes meet the muffler, that there is a gap. On both sides. It seems to be ironic that everything lined up, but yet I have gaps. Now I do have the "clamps" on each side, but what exactly do they clamp on? I don't have pictures of how it looked when I removed them months ago.
Here is a picture of the gap I am referring to:

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1963 Ragtop

[Eric&Barb]

Clamp on the top of the HE and the bottom of the heater bubble of the muffler.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[crankbait09]

so the clamp covers that gap?
Why would their not be a fitting, or why was it not made to join together in some form or fashion?
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1963 Ragtop

[Eric&Barb]

Because the clamp is the fitting.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[gt1953]

That is correct...the wide clamp fills the gap between the bottom of the clamshell and top of the heater box. It also allows you to remove the muffler separately from the heater box or visa versa.
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Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[crankbait09]

Thanks Eric and gt1953
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1963 Ragtop

[crankbait09]

When installing the thermostat bracket, I notice that the bracket mounting hole is oblong, which tells me that you can alter the position from lower to higher.
Is there a correct position this bracket should be in? (higher/centered/lower) How do you determine the exact location?
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1963 Ragtop