Can someone explain full flow oil systems to me

[calig]

Im not the smartest guy on the block and I am having a hard time understanding what full flow oil systems are. All I know is that my 1776 dual carb motor is not full flow. I have been thinking about doing it but I have I some questions if you dont mind

What is Full flow?
Why do people do it?
what do I need to do to my case?
what do I need to buy?
Can I do it to an already built case or do I need to rebuild it?
what advantage will I get from full flow?
will my bug run cooler?

Thanks a bunch!

[drscope]

A full flow oiling system simply means the oil is pumped through a filter and sometimes a cooler before being returned to the engine.

The VW engine has no filter. It just has a screen. So the addition of an inline filter will extend the life of the engine.

Another draw back to the VW engine is the small oil capacity of the crank case. Adding a filter and lines will increase tthe amount of oil available to your engine.

Adding a cooler will also keep oil temps down and add additional capacity.

Should you do it? Well, the answer isn't simple. I would say yes to adding a filter simply because it helps to remove abrasive particulates from the oil.

As for adding a cooler, you first need to monitor your oil temps. DON'T add a cooler simply because it is the "cool" thing to do or because someone who sells them in a catalog says you need one!

Oil MUST be in the proper temperature range in order for it to lubricate properly. If you add a cooler and oil capacity, you may end up running too cool with your engine temperatures. This can be more damaging then running hot and also increases the warm up time of the engine.

So, if you want to spend money and buy cool stuff for your car, start with a few gauges. This will let you know whats going on and if you should add additional oil capacity or coolers.

As for filters, I prefer the oil pump/filter deal. It's simple, not expensive and won't add additional complicated plumbing to the engine. It only adds a minimal amount of capacity and some say it is too close to the exhaust, but this is a simple way to keep your oil clean.

If you are concerned about heat from the exhaust, a simple sheet metal heat shield can be fabricated to keep the radiant heat away from the filter.
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[calig]

I have a bunch of gauges and I don’t like them because all I do is look at them and worry but that is another issue.

The oil temps get pretty hot in my mind. After about 30 minutes of city driving the gauge is around 210-220 and going up. That alone is not making me worry much but I feel like if I keep driving longer the temps will keep going up.

I also have a oil pressure gauge and it reads in the 40's when it’s cold and 20’s when its warm while I am driving. However sometime when I am at idle the oil light comes up. If I give it a little rev then it goes out but comes on again when I am back to idle. My tach shows my idle is around 800rpms. I also have the dual VDO oil pressure sender and was reading that it turns the light on at around 10-15psi and the stock sender comes on at 7psi. When at idle with a warm car the gauge reads at the 10 hash mark.

So I am a little worried that car is running on the hot side. I have the doghouse cooler and 1.5qt sump. The timing and carbs where just tuned by my local VW shop.

I was thinking that I would go full flow to add a filter and possibly another cooler but I don’t want to just cure a symptom. Also to do full flow the case needs to be tapped right? Can I do that on an already built motor or does it need a tear down? My motor is only a year old.

[Joesplace]

I have been looking into this also and have been told, you MUST drill and tap the case for the return line and it's best to drill and tap the case at the pump to plug it also (prevents oil leaks). I don't want to disassemble my engine at this time so does this adapter really work as well as tapping the case?

Oil Return Adapter (Full Flow Adapter)
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECO0027&cartid=0520200857901380

Here's their whole kit it minus the adapter . . .
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECO0011&cartid=

[fred g]

I was told oil temp is should run between 180 and 210F.
Can someone flesh this out for me.

thanks,

Fred
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[Glenn]

180-210 is normal
210-230 is warm
230-250 is hot
250+ is turn the engine off
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עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי

[Mwanza Voki]

Greetings members.

I've a question on the CB performance full kit link below:

https://www.mooreparts.com/vw-bug-full-flow-oil-fi...ished-cam/


1.Does it mean one uses the stock oil cooler(mine is Doghouse type 71 up)

2. The piping from the Oil filter,where does it terminate? In other words how does the engine get oil supply?

Checking to be sure...I seem to have a missing link.

Respectfully.

Mwanza.

[Chickensoup]

Welcome to the Samba!

Yes, it has nothing to do with the oil cooler, so nothing of that sot changes.

And notice there is an IN and OUT line. Oil is pushed out of the pump, then going to the filter, and then the oil makes its way back towards the engine. If you remove the pump cover, you will notice a secondary hole/entry that is isolated from the pump section thats in charged of doing the actual pumping. Oil goes into the hole, and back into the same oil galley it would be pumping through on a stack no filtered system.

This Style of pump, or an IN OUT pump, is best suited for already running engines, because it is a bolt on, and you wont have to drill any oil galleys.

Here is a picture of a filter pump, or an IN OUT pump. However, a pump body like this can also be used as a single OUT style pump cover.
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[GDKARMA]

[wdfifteen]

Full flow systems pump oil through a filter before it goes to the bearings.

Bypass flow systems pump only the oil released by the oil pressure regulator (bypass oil) through a filter before it goes back into the crankcase.

The Volkswagen flow system uses a bug screen at the bottom of the sump.

Full flow is best.

[zerotofifty]

your oil is a bit hot. make sure that the vee belt is tensioned right, no oil on it. do not use a power pulley, make sure pulley is stock diameter so that fan runs at required speed. make sure rags and leafs are not sucked into fan, which will block cooling air, make sure fire wall padding is not leaning and blocking fan inlet. Make sure ALL cooling tin and rubber seals are correct and no gaps, this also includes heater ducting hoses.

If still hot after this, make sure timing is not too far advanced, mixture correct, and fuel grade high enough. Also make sure the four wheels spin freely as a dragging brake can make engine work hard and get too hot.

The Dog House system has a tiny sheet metal internal part that is critical to be installed to prevent cooling air from by passing the cooler. This part is called the "hoover bit" a samba search will yield many posts about this Hoover bit and its importance for cooling the oil. There are also foam seals around the dog house cooler that are critical to renew.

Make sure bypass valve for cooler is opening fully when hot (it opens at low oil pressure)
Wrong wieght of oil can lead to high temps (bypass wont open with too thick an oil) use recommended oil for your climate. Generally a 10w30 works for most folks, other might use a 20W 50. but what ever of this range, assure the bypass is opening fully when hot. If you are running 20w 50 you might want to test 10w 30 to see if that lowers temps, BUT besure you maintain good pressure, minimum of 10 psi per 1000 rpm when warmed up. i.e. minimum 30 psi at 3000 rpm.

Finally, or perhaps firstly, make sure your temp gage is correct. A test thermometer can slipped down the dip stick tube when engine is off and hot to use as a comparison. That test thermometer can be tested for accuracy in a pot of boiling water.

Report back!!!! Good luck, stay cool.

Full flow related to oil filtration.
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