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power mirror switch rehab
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geoffraynak
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Joined: June 17, 2018
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Location: BEND OR
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 4:29 pm    Post subject: power mirror switch rehab Reply with quote

so I finally decided to tear into my power mirror switch ... since I isolated the non-op mirrors to the switch.
i made sure that BOTH mirrors worked with direct voltage input based on this thread
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=709703&sid=e397711da1cb734b081aa3f590ce69e9

you can also do this voltage testing at the 6-pin connector in the DS door ... but it is a bit more involved.

FOR ME: it turns out one of the smallest dumbbells known to humankind has dislodged INSIDE the switch ... causing the maze of contacts to mis-fire.

i WAS able to fix it ... my mirrors now respond to my joystick commands

the task is NOT hard ...
the BIGGEST potential cause-of-failure is in loosing a spring or copper(bronze?) dumbbell-contact


honestly ... the part is beautify ... and the design is amazing ... almost elegant to see a 100% mechanical system in action...


SO ... in an attempt to share what I've learned ... here are some images of how it went:

here is the switch in question:

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to crack the switch, i used a small jewelers flat-head screwdriver
it will expose the 'top' layer:
this is FOR SURE when you need to make sure you don't loose anything:
this top layer will have a tiny tiny (4mm?) contact dumbbell and TWO tiny tiny tiny springs in in the white-plastic carrier


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here you can see the dumbbell (the two springs go UNDER the bulbs of the bell)
NOTE: the springs/dumbbell go in the holes AWAY from the tab/ear on the cylindrical left/right carrier:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


this cylindrical carrier is the 'LEFT/RIGHT' selector
you can see the dumbbell contact going across two 'traces' here ...
and can imagine if you rotate the white carrier clockwise 90-degrees ... that the dumbbell will contact the 'lower' tracer and activate power to the 'other' side

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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NEXT we get into the 'lower' set of contacts and tracers
this lower section (retained UNDER the copper circuit plate) contains one 'position' carrier, THREE dumbbells and SIX springs ...

here is what they look like:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


note how they even etched the pin-out on the board:

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again ... make sure to put everything in a safe place that won't get knocked by kids or dog-tails or gentle breezes ...
if you loose any of these little buggers ... you are DOA.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and here is how the joystick moves the 'position' carrier:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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the joystick can be pulled out of the black 'front' of the switch:
it has TWO larger steel balls and springs ... these springs/balls are for the left/right detent action as you toggle between the two

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



you can see the detent-action features in the base-part here:
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here is a look at ALL the parts in the switch:
the 'front' housing
the cylindrical joystick assembly (i did NOT take this apart ... it appears to be heat-staked?)
two detent balls
two detent springs
four tiny tiny dumbbels
eight tiny tiny tiny springs
one double-sided circuit tracer
one 'position' carrier
the 'back' housing
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



now you just re-assemble in reverse
most parts are self-orienting.
the springs go in the holes
the dumbbells go 'over' the springs ... and they should have some springy-action.

the ONLY spring/dumbbell that can be assembled in the wrong place is the left/right selector ... these go in the holes AWAY from the cylindrical carrier/tab

the most-tricky re-assembly step is keeping the larger left/right detent balls in the right position ... this was made easier by holding the joystick by the 'ball' end and then bringing the switch body over the top of the switch ... remember the notch-and-ear orientation from above.

once this is done, grab the 'front' of the joystick to keep pressure on the detent springs/balls
and then this sub-assembly can be
here are a few final shots:
i just used PTFE dry-lube to keep everything clean-ish

and yes ... everything now works ... amazingly


now ... i just need to 3D print a new toggle switch so i stop using pliers to switch left/right

cheers
geoff
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 5:36 pm    Post subject: Re: power mirror switch rehab Reply with quote

Very nice write up...the collective thanks you! Cool

- Dave
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SyncroChrick
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 8:19 pm    Post subject: Re: power mirror switch rehab Reply with quote

super duper! I need to fix mine too.
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geoffraynak
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 2:09 pm    Post subject: Re: power mirror switch rehab Reply with quote

Thanks Dave
I get SOOO much information and detail from this group ... i'm glad i can give a tiny bit back!

and SyncroChrick: go for it ... just have a HUGE table and a way to make sure nothing springs or flies away ... definitely not a driveway repair!

cheers
geoff
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creative native
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 10:46 am    Post subject: Re: power mirror switch rehab Reply with quote

Thank you for these great instructions!

My power mirrors are no longer functioning. The passenger's side is completely dead now and the driver's side will whine when I try to adjust it and may move a few millimeters, then stop. I have assumed it is the mirror motor that is dying. Has anyone else had this experience and if so, how did you repair it?
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geoffraynak
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 12:38 pm    Post subject: Re: power mirror switch rehab Reply with quote

creative native ...
you should FIRST perform the tests from 'westyman71' from the linked thread at the top of this thread ...

it shows how to test the motors ...
you can test them 'in situ' if you remove the door cards and the plastic connectors (to have full access to the spades)

i am working on a way to test them from the 6-pin connector ... just put that on pause since i was able to get mine to work with repair of the switch

IF your system works at each mirror (even with a 9v battery!) ... but is slow/whiney/sluggish when using the switch... then it is either a crappy wire somewhere between the switch and the motor ... or a crappy switch

mine was a crappy switch
cleaning it up may allow the electrons to flow better ... and help make those mirrors come alive again!
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creative native
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 2:27 pm    Post subject: Re: power mirror switch rehab Reply with quote

Geoffraynak, thanks for the advice and even if this doesn't solve the problem, it is good maintenance that will surely improve mirror function after the cause for failure is repaired.
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Alaskaberrys Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 3:24 pm    Post subject: Re: power mirror switch rehab Reply with quote

Thanks for the excellent write up and pictures! Giving me some conference to see about getting that passenger mirror to function again Cool
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Eric_Taylor
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 1:24 pm    Post subject: Re: power mirror switch rehab Reply with quote

This is VERY helpful and perfect timing. The power mirrors are one of my winter projects. Both do not operate right now and hopefully that means switch/wiring! Thanks to this, I've got a good road map!
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skygawd
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 4:56 pm    Post subject: Re: power mirror switch rehab Reply with quote

Great article! The side mirrors on my 90 Westy haven’t worked in a while so I was preparing to take apart the switch. I thought wait a minute before I get involved in this possibly risky endeavor I took a can of WD-40 and sprayed it inside the connector opening and also in the opening around the switch post, I let it sit overnight. The next day, after working the switch around a little bit, I reinstalled it and the mirrors worked fine. I was actually a little disappointed! because I love working on my van ...
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