Scat spring loaded pushrod tubes installation method

[Batan]

I got around of installing the pushrod tubes tonight. Well, 4 of them anyway. It got Scat, dual o-ring type. It seems that there is a lack of instructions for these tubes. It's pretty straight forward but the springs are pretty strong and holding them fully compressed for installation is not fun, and they need to be fully compressed to clear everything. So before I started I thought about few ways to do it. One was to wrap duct tape around them while fully loaded - not easy and this is one thing that even magic duct tape can't seem to be able to hold together. Using ziptes through the inner part would most likely pinch/ruin the seals on the ends and probably get caught between the seal and the head/case.

So I came up with my method that enabled me to spend about around 5 minutes per tube. Sorry about crappy cell phone pics.

1. Assembly the tubes with O-rings, seals etc...

2. Compress the tubes fully and mark the position of the smaller tube with a marker. That is a reference for the next step.

3. Grab a zip tie. As you are compressing the tube, when you are about 1-1.5" from the fully compressed, start feeding the zip tie's end info the fat tube. All you need is about 3/4" of zip tie's end and that's all it really wants to take as well.
The friction of having a ziptie between the walls of two tubes will hold the tubes compressed.
WARNING: Careful where you aim the ends!!!! If it lets go, it will knock teeth out, leave dents etc. If you hold it firmly together, it should be alright, I tried and they do not let go all that fast. But better safe then sorry. If it does let go, it will fly across the room like SOB.

4. Get under the bus, put the case end of the tube in first(fat tube to case, skinny tube to head).
5. Then looking through the pushrod tube hole in the head, aim the tube at the hole.
6. While holding the tube aimed, tug the zip tie out and snap! It's seated in place.

Now, one thing I was worried about is the zip tie deforming the bigger tube. But I saw no sign of that and even if it did, the 2 o rings actually seal good 2" away from the big tube's lip so it should be alright. Will report on how it's doing.


I know no sealant is supposed to be used but I used Ultra Gray Permatex on both ends as I really like that stuff, it seems to seal well and stays very flexible.
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'69 Riviera Bay
'03 20th Anniversary GTI
'74 Super Beetle
Badzak Creative – Still and Motion Pictures

[Desertbusman]

Then there is the other way to do it. The method I used when puting the Scat tubes in my bug. Use grease on the inside for the O rings. But then clean the outsides real well so there is no grease, oil, or anything slippery. Clean your hands real well. And grab the tubes with both hands, give a grunt to help compress them and just put them in. If there is any slippery contamination involved they just slip in your hands. Why the gloves? I only use gloves for the CV joints. As far as sealant on the seals, probably most people use some type of light sealant film.
Now when you start it up, run it awhile, and if you see leaks at the end seals, don't panic. Using a screwdriver and hammer, tap on the black steel rings to push the seals farther into the case and heads. Tap evenly all around on the rings. You would't need to if the springs were even stronger yet.
That's retarded that Scat still doesn't include instructions. I had to figure out which end went where. There are different advantages both ways. With the joint facing upward there is probably less chance of oil leakage but then water and dirt is a lot more apt to get in the joint and stay there. But the determining factor was that one end was a bit shorter and it fit into the head holes nicely. The longer end would bind in the head holes because of the angle the tube fits in.
I talked with the parts house that sold them, after I put them in and they leaked. Asked if the included seals were any good and if the quality soft silicone seals would be better. He didn't really know. And I don't remember which seals I ended up using. But both types leaked until discovering the tap 'em trick. BTW it's been a few years and they are doing good.
Keep us informed on what you run into.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[Batan]

[Desertbusman]

There is nothing anywhere on mine to get my hands dirty except doing the CV joints and wheel bearings. I did the CV's yesterday and that grease is unreal, even with latex gloves. As far as the knuckles, if you are having that problem, don't wrap your hands around wrenches. Push with your palms. And work on getting everything real clean. Slime and grime causes wrenches to slip. A bucket of real hot soapy water to frequently keep tools and hands clean really used to help when doing dirty wrenching.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[aircoolnut]

Though I'd share my solution. Tried the tie-wrap wedge, wouldn't hold and couldn't keep the tube closed long enough to get it in with my bare hands. So, with a number of carefully placed tie-wraps...

I was able to simply hold it in position while I snipped the wraps loose allowing the tube to expand into position. Just had to pull the remaining wrap bits out from under the seal. Took about 30 minutes to assemble and prep all the tubes and about 5 minutes each to install.

[Desertbusman]

Since doing them on my other engine, recently I did them on my bus engine. And used Batans zip tie wedge method. It worked great.

Maybe it's just a matter of getting the right thickness zip ties. They were right at the point of grabbing or letting the tube slip.
Doubt it matters much but were yours the 2 O-ring tubes? Both of mine are the larger diameter tubes with 3 real small O-rings.

Did you use sealant on the end seals? Let us know if they seal well.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[aircoolnut]

I think your right about getting the right zip-tie thickness. My tubes were the standard size with 2 o-rings. Didn't use sealant but made sure the surfaces were super clean by wiping them with brake cleaner. I also took the advice of Aircooled.net and ordered their silicone tube seals. They appear much superior to the ones that came with the kit. Will keep you posted how they perform.

[grandpa pete]

aircooled nut: thanks for resurecting this thread. Iwill be replacing 2 leaking tubes next week
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66 sedan delivery Type 6

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[stefanosg]

Just got doing mine with those tubes. Believe it or not I used 2in wide masking take. Holds better than I thought. I depressed the tube between my body and the workbench. I then used a about 4in-5in piece of precut tape and wrapped it around the tube where the two come together. Holding it together with my right hand I was able to get under the bus and put the long side in first. I then lined up the short end as best I could. While still holding the tube I relaxed my grip. Within a few seconds the tape gave and the end popped into the whole. All I had to do next was get the tape off.