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Brosol H30/31 running rich at idle - wont adjust
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dave123
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2007 6:28 pm    Post subject: Brosol H30/31 running rich at idle - wont adjust Reply with quote

Before I start, I'm sticking with the Brosol carb, so please dont suggest a rebuilt solex as my fix Rolling Eyes

Got a new Brosol H30/31 carb, v pleased with it, runs great... only problem is it starts very sluggishly from cold or hot. Everything else is set well - i have a feeling this is an idle mixture adjustment issue, it seems very rich on start-up.

But, when i turn the small volume screw all the way in when it idles, nothing happens (engine keeps running same).... whats the problem?

I'll go take it off now and clean it out, but would appreciate suggestions, Cheers
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2007 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Runs well, but rich at startup? Sounds normal, that's the choke doing its job. I generally don't futz with the volume screw -- just leaving it 2.5-3 turns out works.

Been here? http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, i mean REALLY rich - seems like its almost dribbling fuel into the manifold - plumes of fumes when i start up, and smells very rich.

I took the carb apart and cleaned it all out, re-set the mixtures... now it seems that the volume control screw DOES have adjustment... but when i screw it IN the engine gets faster, which is the opposite of what i was expecting Shocked Am i going nuts?

Ive currently left it set at about 1.5 turns out
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dave123
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yup, just been out for another fiddle - engine runs fastest when volume control screw is all the way in! Confused
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bciesq
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 2:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What idle jet are you running?

Is the accelerator pump leaking? With the car at idle and warmed up, stick your finger under the accelerator pump nozzle and see if it is dripping.

Normally these H30/31 carbs aren't that sensitive to fuel pressure, but you may check that as well as the float.

What distributor and timing are you using?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Running a 55 idle jet, which is what was recommended to me.... the fuel pump is a new standard one (brosol though Rolling Eyes)

I'm running an aircooled network SVDA modified for the H30/31, timed at 7.5deg BTDC at idle with strobe and vac line off.

What would be the cause of fuel coming out of the accelerator nozzle when at idle? I will check when it gets light outside again Wink
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 4:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dave123 wrote:
Running a 55 idle jet, which is what was recommended to me.... the fuel pump is a new standard one (brosol though Rolling Eyes)

I'm running an aircooled network SVDA modified for the H30/31, timed at 7.5deg BTDC at idle with strobe and vac line off.

What would be the cause of fuel coming out of the accelerator nozzle when at idle? I will check when it gets light outside again Wink


The Brazilian fuel pumps can be all over the board in terms of fuel pressure. Sears has a cheap pressure gauge that can be used on vacuum as well as fluids that you can use to check. If you have high pressure, you can lower it by installing additional gaskets under the pump. I'm not sure this is the real problem, however, as the 30/31 is not that sensitive to fuel pressure.

I ran the same carb and dizzy for while and it was a good and efficient combo on my 1600 single port. I also used a 55 idle jet.

The accelerator nozzle can dribble due to a torn or improperly installed diaphragm. One way to temporarily alleviate this is to adjust the accelerator pump to its lowest setting. I think the new 30/31 carbs have the spring loaded threaded arm on the opposite side of the carb from the throttle. A metal or plastic nut is on the rear of the arm. To adjust the accelerator pump down, back the nut off the arm as far as you can before it falls off.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 5:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your suggestions - nice to hear from someone who has exactly the same set-up as me, actually!

Presumably the accelerator pump only works when the throttle is pressed, i.e. it only squirts when the throttle moves? In which case if its leaking at idle then i'll suspect excessive fuel pressure.

I guess i shold also suspect the needle valve in the float chamber (or a sticking float), though it all looked ok when i had it apart yesterday Question
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dave123 wrote:
Thanks for your suggestions - nice to hear from someone who has exactly the same set-up as me, actually!

Presumably the accelerator pump only works when the throttle is pressed, i.e. it only squirts when the throttle moves? In which case if its leaking at idle then i'll suspect excessive fuel pressure.

I guess i shold also suspect the needle valve in the float chamber (or a sticking float), though it all looked ok when i had it apart yesterday Question


I've had an accelerator pump dribble at idle from the vibration of the engine. Adjusting the pump as I described above helped to alleviate the problem.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the help

i've just been watching footage of that stretched, widened, 993 bi-turbo engine'd splitty and how they made that Shocked

... and i can't even tune my bloody carb! Rolling Eyes Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 2:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, just been tinkering

1st - I re-set the choke... it was set to be fully on at start-up. Cold weather is not that common here in Aus so i slackened it off. I get this problem also on immediate re-start so I dont think this is the cause of my rich at idle running/poor starting.

2nd - Stuck my finger down the throat of the carb, under the accel nozzle... no leakage. Blip the throttle, wet finger. Ergo- accel pump working as expected.

BUT, screwing volume control screw in still makes it go FASTER Confused What now? How do i diagnose high fuel pressure (i dont have a gauge) with the car running - will there be a leak somewhere? How many gaskets alter the pump pressure - are we talking like 1 or 2, or 5 or 6?

Cheers
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dave123 wrote:
OK, just been tinkering

1st - I re-set the choke... it was set to be fully on at start-up. Cold weather is not that common here in Aus so i slackened it off. I get this problem also on immediate re-start so I dont think this is the cause of my rich at idle running/poor starting.

2nd - Stuck my finger down the throat of the carb, under the accel nozzle... no leakage. Blip the throttle, wet finger. Ergo- accel pump working as expected.

BUT, screwing volume control screw in still makes it go FASTER Confused What now? How do i diagnose high fuel pressure (i dont have a gauge) with the car running - will there be a leak somewhere? How many gaskets alter the pump pressure - are we talking like 1 or 2, or 5 or 6?

Cheers


If you don't have a gauge, then you are left with trial an error on how many gaskets to use. On the upper end, you just want to avoid fuel starvation at highway speeds. AC.net will drop ten gaskets in an envelope and mail them to you:

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=FSP0003&cartid=0327200739213829

I take it that the float looked OK?

As for the volume control screw, I've always adjusted it when the engine is fully warmed up. Are you saying that you can't get a fully warmed engine to misfire by turning the volume control screw all the way in? I thought the problem was limited to startup?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just throwing this out there . . .

My '69 Beetle had a similar problem. It turned out to be a sunk float. It developed a crack and began to take on gas (causing it to sink) which prevented it from seating the float valve.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bciesq - yes, thats exactly what i'm saying... screw the vol control screw in and engine speeds up... screw it all the way in and it runs fastest! WTF?

I'm not saying this is the cause of my problem - its just that i have a problem and this is an observation i made.

The float looked OK... i didnt immerse it in water or anything but it didnt have any fuel inside it when i took it off, and it is a brand new carb Rolling Eyes I checked the valve by blowing thorugh it then pressing the plunger, and it blocked off fine.

???
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like the idle jet is too big.

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dave123
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idle jet is a 55 - was recommended to me for a 1600 sp - this sound too big?

Would it cause the volume control screw to play up? It came with a 50
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to have 30/31 on a 1600. It's been a little while since then, but I recall it having 2 screws for adjusting the mixture. One is the little tiny one for the fuel volume, and the other is the big one next to it for the air volume. Turning the big one in would make it run richer, turning the little one in would make it run leaner. Might that be your problem? It took me a while to figure out what the big one did, since I never had a real diagram for it until I bought a rebuild kit.

Hope you get it worked out

EDIT: I did a little lookin around and found this:

"The 30PICT/3, 31PICT, H30/31 and 34PICT/3 all have two adjusting screws in the left side (the smaller Volume and larger Bypass screws) and a fast-idle screw on the throttle arm. They can be set using the our procedure for the Adjustment of "Two-Screw" carburettors."

Taken from http://www.vw-resource.com/carb.html#brosol

I felt pretty sure there were 2 adjusting screws.... Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, i have 2 adjusting screws.... the big one is doing its job fine, its the little one thats playing up.

I changed the 55 to a 50 and still have the same problem - the small one doesn't seem to stall the engine/slow it when screwed all the way in. I left it at 1.5 turens out and adjusted the speed on teh big one to suit.

It still takes some cranking and stamping on the acc pedal to get it started

Idea Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the power jet and idle jet swapped? This carb comes with a 50 idle jet and a 65 power jet. They are both on the right side of the carb. The power jet(65) should be in the diagonal hole...The idle jet(50-55) should be in the hole that goes straight in to the side of the carb. If you have the 65 in the idle jet hole it would be pretty rich.

BTW I use a 55 in my 1600DP and it works great!

Hope this helps!
Mark
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a similar setup 1600dp 009 dizzy h30/31 carb. with the lower temps. I have a problem with being in 4 then downshfting into nuetral. the engine cuts off. the car starts fine and idles. I figuare I need to run richer. what size jets can i adjust to? Im went over all the basics. Iam going to adjust the valves. this coming weekend.
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