Author |
Message |
[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2020 Posts: 2
|
Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 8:35 pm Post subject: No power to fuse box 1978 Super Beetle |
|
|
Can anyone help me answer why there is no power to the fuse box |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Saucy Jack Samba Member
Joined: August 01, 2018 Posts: 104 Location: Iowa
|
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:22 am Post subject: Re: No power to fuse box 1978 Super Beetle |
|
|
Going to have to give a little more than that, is the battery charged? Will it start? if it starts is there power from the generator? have you checked for broken wires? bad fuses? _________________ "When in doubt, throw a grenade"
78 SB CHAMPAGNE II |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
ashman40 Samba Member

Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 16560 Location: North Florida, USA
|
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 11:30 am Post subject: Re: No power to fuse box 1978 Super Beetle |
|
|
Which fuses are you checking? With the ignition switch OFF only two fuses will have power.. fuse #8 & #9. If your tester does not detect current on the INPUT side of these fuses you will need to trace your wires.
Pull out the fuse box and look to the #9 fuse for a thick red/white wire. This wire comes from under the rear seat and brings all the current from the battery/alternator to the dash. Remove the wire from the fuse box and test the end for 12v. Note that this wire is NOT fused so do not let it touch anything metal.
If you cannot get a voltage reading from this red/white wire, lift the rear seat and find the other end of the wire. Look for a large rectangular white junction below the left rear seat. This junction is where current from the battery and the alternator come together. There are four (4) red/white wires at this junction:
battery positiive terminal
B+ stud of the alternator
+ terminal on diagnostic plug
#30 wire that runs to the #9 fuse
Test the junction for voltage.
If there is no voltage at the junction check the wire running between the battery positive (+) terminal and this junction. While the ignition switch is OFF this is where your current is coming from.
It won't hurt to wire brush any connectors you remove to clean them up. _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2020 Posts: 2
|
Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 3:21 pm Post subject: Re: No power to fuse box 1978 Super Beetle |
|
|
Sorry new to this
Made sure battery fully charged
Have power to 8 & 9 fuse, 10, 11 & 12 no power
No power to fuel pump & coil, no dash lights when turn key to on position
Other question- there are 2 wires coming from the coil, is one of those supposed to go to the #12 fuse and where is the other coil supposed to go to? |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
ashman40 Samba Member

Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 16560 Location: North Florida, USA
|
Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 10:22 am Post subject: Re: No power to fuse box 1978 Super Beetle |
|
|
We need a reference to continue the discussion. Below is the '76+ FI Super Beetle wiring diagram:
Don't be intimidated by the diagram. Just look at one area at a time. Find and get familiar with where the different fuses (S#) are in the diagram so you can find them quickly. They are organized by circuit and not numerically. Note that some fuses (3-4, 5-6, 8-9,11-12) have black lines connecting their tops (INPUT side) together. These represent the brass bars in the fuse box that connect the INPUT side of pairs of fuses together. This allows one power source wire to power two fuses. In general, power flows from the top of the diagram down the circuits and grounds to the chassis ground at the bottom of the diagram. This version of the wiring diagram allows easier troubleshooting as it actually shows you what happens INSIDE switches, but is a bit harder to FIND devices and understand where they are installed around the car. It expects you to know where devices are located.
[email protected] wrote: |
Made sure battery fully charged
Have power to 8 & 9 fuse, 10, 11 & 12 no power |
Power from the battery comes to the INPUT side of fuse #9 as its first stop behind the dash. From there battery constant power is distributed to the ignition switch and the headlight switch. The other red wire on #9 INPUT is actually an OUTPUT that runs to the ignition switch (D). The red wire on #8 INPUT (which is interconnected to #9 INPUT by the black line) is another OUTPUT which branches to the headlight switch (E1) where it powers just the parking lights and dash lights.
Fuses #10-#12 are powered by two different OUTPUTs from the ignition switch.
The black/yellow (X) wire from the ignition switch powers fuse #10. Note the second black/yellow wire from the INPUT side of #10 runs to the headlight switch (E1) where it powers the headlight dimmer relay and eventually the headlight fuses and then the headlights. Note that this means there are two separate circuits running thru the headlight switch. One for the parking lights and one for the headlights. They are powered from different sources.
The black (#15) wire from the ignition switch powers fuses #11 & #12.
If you don't have power on the last three fuses while the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position, trace the black/yellow and black wires back to the ignition switch and test them at the plug under the steering column. If there is no voltage from the ignition switch plug when it is ON then you may need to replace the switch itself. If there is current at the plug but not at the fuses you need to find the break between these two points.
[email protected] wrote: |
No power to fuel pump & coil, no dash lights when turn key to on position
Other question- there are 2 wires coming from the coil, is one of those supposed to go to the #12 fuse and where is the other coil supposed to go to? |
Find the #58b (grey/red) wire coming off the headlight switch. Follow it to the two bulb holders in the speedometer case. Test the wire for voltage while the parking lights are ON.
The dash lights are part of the parking light circuit. They are ON anytime the headlight switch is pulled to the 1st ON position. Unlike the parking lights the dash lights are dimmable and controlled by the knob on the headlight switch. Rotate this until the dash lights are fully powered.
The stock FI fuel pump is powered from the double-relay (J40). I'm not very well versed in VW FI speak. This relay is powered directly from the battery via a red wire which comes into the double-relay at terminal #88z. It is also triggered/controlled by a black #15 wire that comes from the ignition coil #15 terminal. This is likely the second black wire coming off the ignition coil you are referring to. There is a third black wire off the #15 (+) ignition coil terminal which goes on to power the reverse lights. If either of these wires at the double-relay does not have power the fuel pump will not have power. It is more complicated than this as the fuel pump is only powered while air is flowing thru the air intake. To test the pump you need to depress one of the airflow valves to fool the double-relay into thinking the engine is running. _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
|