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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2019 6:26 pm    Post subject: Thingaru Reply with quote

Its been a while since I've posted anything after my windows build. Thought I would start a new topic for my Subaru install. I picked up a JDM Subaru EJ205 and 754 transmission from a local JDM seller. I like pictures and hopefully you do too so I'll stick to mostly pics.
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2019 9:16 pm    Post subject: Thingaru Exhaust Reply with quote

I considered using stock exhaust from the bone yard but after looking around at 3 different LKQ's around decided to fabricate the whole thing myself.

Machined the flanges from .5" cold rolled.
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After some research figured that 1.625" was similar but slightly larger than stock and seemed about right for a mild build based on headers on the market.
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Prefabed merge prices were through the roof, so I decided to make it myself. Had to make a fixture to cut the 45's at the end of the 15* bends. Made the cuts on portable band saw.
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After welding the tubes mostly together it was apparent that I wouldnt be able to weld the merge assembly to the rest of the headers. So I cut the spike out of the middle with a hack saw and resituated the header ends to meet together.
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I didn't take pictures of the merge itself but I shortened it so that the bigger end was small enough to fit the tighter pipes. The fun part was welding the merge from the inside. Had to get a pencil torch for the TIG. Went with a V-Band aft of the merge to the up pipe. Stock Subaru up pipe comes off the header at a weird angle. So again, had to fab my own. I talked to a shop that makes Subaru up pipes and they said a 30* and 45*. Had to add an extra 45* since my header aimed straight out.
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2019 9:23 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Looks like very nice fabrication!
Please keep posting photos as you progress. I will be especially interested in your treatment of the cooling system, when you get to it.

Good luck, Mondshine
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 14, 2019 12:01 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

mondshine wrote:
Looks like very nice fabrication!
Please keep posting photos as you progress. I will be especially interested in your treatment of the cooling system, when you get to it.

Good luck, Mondshine


Thanks Mondshine

Going to do 2 Civic radiators in the engine compartment. Most likely Mishimoto or some brand like that. Need to be all aluminum incase/when I need to modify them. Pretty much the same as the bus guys are doing. I've done some coolant mods to the engine already but haven't started on anything in the Thing.

One fitting is return from the turbo and the other is connected to the fitting on the crossover pipe on top of the engine.
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Welded this port closed. Used to send hot coolant to the cabin heater which returned to one of the fittings behind the thermostat. The AN fitting in the cross over tube will return hot coolant to the back side of the thermostat.
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The black mark was already there before I welded it.
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 14, 2019 3:03 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Rethinking some of my coolant plan. Here are some pics to explain.


Think I'm going to cap this fitting for now. It used to go down to one of the fittings on the thermostat housing. The way the hose is routed from the crossover tube down to the thermostat causes a high spot in the hose.
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Popped the freeze plug out of the back of the crossover tube and welded in another -6AN. This will feed hot coolant back to the expansion tank.
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The turbo will still feed back to the expansion tank.
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Now I need to figure out if I'm going to run 1 or 2 -6AN lines from the bottom of the expansion tank to the thermostat. I also need to make a new expansion tank. This one is way too big.
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I couldn't find a straight out thermostat housing with the nipple offset the way I need. Stock one was offset to the bottom and aimed straight to the left. First I tried modifying the stock housing by cutting the dome off and attempting to weld it back together. Note to self: Self, don't try to weld on dirty old cast aluminium.
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That didn't work, so I made one.

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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2019 7:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Made a new expansion tank over the weekend.


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iltis74
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2019 2:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

mondshine wrote:
Please keep posting photos as you progress.



I second that emotion!
_________________
65 Beetle
73 & 74 Things
87 Syncro
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 23, 2019 1:24 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Sorted the wiring a little bit today. Stripped down what I had for the harness and left pig tails on the connectors for color reference. I will be running a speed density setup with Megasquirt 3. The section of harness that I got with the engine came with almost all of the connectors. It was missing the MAF which is why I'm going to run speed density. All of the sockets for all of the connectors use Sumitomo 1500-0110 - 1500-0106 MT-HM-HW if anybody is wondering. Just ordered some sockets and seals so that I can re-pin everything with new wire and no splices.
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I also added another 1.25" to the oil pan to pick up some more capacity and lower the oil level. 4.5qts of water was filling it to a little more than 1/2" from the top of the pan. Originally was keeping the pan as low profile as possible but the headers couldn't get any tighter. The extra 1.25" brings the bottom of the pan to level with the bottom of the headers.
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Megasquirt should be here after Christmas.

Now I need to sell the stock turbocharged 1600 and tranny.
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 1:22 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Got the Megasquirt all put together. Wasn't too bad but very tedious. Took some time to go through the manual and figure out how to configure the Megasquirt to work with this engine.
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Got a universal intercooler that's a little bigger than stock Subaru.
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A while ago I welded -6 AN fittings on the ends of the injector rails but never leak checked them. Apparently the factory brazing severely hinders tig welding on the steel. 3 of the 4 had many micro pin holes. It didn't matter how much I welded or brazed the pin holes would just change location. Maybe because I wasn't back purging.
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I ended up finding a local company that sells aluminum fuel rails for the side feed injectors.
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This is probably where I'm going to start getting the hate mail. I cleaned the engine compartment with Easy Off and cut out the entire floor which will allow the extra space for the radiators and intercooler.
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For tuning the Megasquirt, Tunerstudio has a Linux version that will run on a Raspberry Pi. This will be my dash.
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After I added the extra depth to the oil pan I extended the oil pickup and added some struts, Killerbee inspired.

Still waiting on my Subarugears setup but since I already trimmed the RWD center diff from the tranny I have started the temp install. The nose required trimming pretty much all of the center mount for the rear seatbelts. Along with the fwd tranny mount and opening the center hole that the VW shift rod went thru.
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2020 2:25 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Made the aft motor mount today. Not quite done yet though. Still need to add a gusset plate across the bottom and trim the ends off. I was worried about the weird angles and cuts that needed to be made on the square tubing. Ended up not being too bad. I had to stare at the pieces of steel for a whilebefore I had a plan. Chopped the general design of the Subamount.
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66 Shorty
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 5:58 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

There's some awesome work going on in this thread! Wow! I'm impressed!
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2020 10:17 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

66 Shorty wrote:
There's some awesome work going on in this thread! Wow! I'm impressed!


Thanks Shorty.

Got the radiators mostly mounted over the past few days.
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Made a shroud for the left radiator that will seal up to the deck lid and around the tail light to draw air through the wing vents.
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I also made the fan shroud itself for the left radiator. The radiators are advertised for Civic 92-00 and some other Honda models. For $65 ea they also come with a fan. The radiator has shroud mounting locations but the fan is generic and uses plastic pins that push through the core and lock on the other side.
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I cut one of the tanks off the intercooler so that I could rotate it 180 for checking the fit in the engine compartment. Eventually will cut the other tank off and make 2 new ones. The top tank inlet will enter from the front and aim straight fwd. The bottom outlet will exit at the rear and aim directly inboard. They will end up being the same height as they were made which is why I'm using them as reference here.

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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 4:00 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Got a little more done today. Finished the end tanks. Going to stay working the wiring this weekend.
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 2:00 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Started running the Megasquirt EFI wiring today. So much wiring to do. As I'm typing, I think I realised I will need to pretty much rewire the entire harness that runs from the instrument panel back to the engine. The tail lights are about the only thing will mostly use the stock wiring. Everything else will need to be lengthened/shortened to work with the new engine. Plus, all of the engine components are going to be run off a separate fuse/relay box.

Soooo much wire...

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Fuse/relay box

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14point7 wideband controller. Thought of an interesting way to mount the controller. The lead off of the sensor to the controller is just the right length to reach the Napoleon hat (not sure if that's what you call the rear one).
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 2:01 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Been doing a bit of wiring the past few days. Got most all of it routed and cleaned up. Luckily the previous owner had thought ahead and put a hole the size of a heater duct in the aft bulkhead.

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I've been labeling all of the ends of the wires with label printer heatshrink. The label maker is a P-Touch 1380 that uses the TZ type cartridges. I got three different sizes of non Brother brand heat shrinks. The .23" cartridge is perfect for most of the wires in an engine compartment.

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Made a tray under the right side under the aft seat outboard of the battery. The Megasquirt and fuse/relay box are mounted to the panel with riv-nuts. Man I love those things. View of the tray in place.

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Wires before/after combing them out.
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Using the original wire hangers to hold the bundle in place for now. Most likely going to use Adel clamps for the final install.
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Got a heat sink style enclosure for the Raspberry Pi. If anybody has experience setting up GPS on the Raspberry please hit me up. I have it in the house right now which makes it difficult to get a fix.
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

av8-
I only wish that you had finished this project a couple of years ago, so that I could have seen it in person when I drove out to Things West in 2018!
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 1:01 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

mondshine wrote:
av8-
I only wish that you had finished this project a couple of years ago, so that I could have seen it in person when I drove out to Things West in 2018!


Plan on coming out again? Should be driving in time for this years meet up. Maybe I'll go.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 1:48 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Got some work done on the radiators. Filled in the drain holes. Cut the filler spouts off and welded them closed. The Chinesium paint on them made it fun to weld (I can't believe they painted them silver to look like raw aluminum).

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Also added bungs for bleed screws on the radiators. The way that they are mounted makes what's supposed to be the bottom tank actually be the highest points in the coolant system, hence the need for bleed screws.
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Made a fan shroud for the right radiator. Not enough space between the right radiator and intercooler so I had to get another smaller fan.
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Cleared out the throttle tube and clutch from the tunnel to make room for hard lines from the tank to the aft bulkhead. That center stand off for the clutch tube put up a fight but I got it out of there. Had to drill a hole in the tunnel to knock the stand off out with a chisel and sledge hammer. Special note: I used a carbide toothed hole saw to make the access hole in the tunnel and it worked surprisingly well.
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I removed some sheet metal around the shift coupling access hole to make room for the fuel lines. The aft bulkhead with the oval hole was completely removed for the fuel line bulkhead and space for the tranny. The tranny nose are a bit of a pain since the shift rod is offset to the right and the snout sticks fwd into the cabin quite a bit more than the VW. Made a new bulkhead that is mounted a bit more fwd and thicker to make up for what's been removed so far.


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I'm running -6 pressure and -8 hard lines through the tunnel. They will be mounted to the floor of the tunnel with adel clamps to keep them from vibrating and cracking the flares.
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Installed bulkhead fittings at the fwd bulkhead that the clutch and fuel tubes used to mount to.
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 8:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Wasted a bunch of time on this one. The upper coolant banjo on the turbo was similar touching the bottom of the parcel shelf. Spent a bunch of time trying to find the correct sized right angle banjo elbow.
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Ended up going with an M12-6AN straight fitting. Simple.
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av8shunmeckaneck
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 2:53 am    Post subject: Re: Thingaru Reply with quote

Installed the oil pressure dummy light and generator light. The brake safety light is powered by the same wire as the generator so maybe that load is enough to excite the alternator. We'll see how it works. They are both LED so we'll see if thats enough.
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