Link Pin front end rebuild

[167luckycharm]

Hi all, not wanting to hijack another front end thread with questions about my build, but here goes; Wanting to shorten my front beam by 3" total and installing 2-1/2" drop spindles. Bottom beam will have an adjuster welded in. The car is a street only Manx, curb weight 1,560 lbs. Wanting to know if I should clock the adjuster's grub screw in the original stock location while centered in its travel, or rotate it slightly down to soften up the spring ratio. I realize the spring packs will become stiffer after shortening. Of course, there's less weight for them to carry as well. Primary reason for narrowing the beam is to tuck the tires completely under the fenders; tired of the hammer-head look. Would like to hear what others have done that worked (or didn't) or much needed advice. Shock towers have been cut off; to be replaced with 5/8" thick steel plates to fit shorter shock absorbers. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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[andk5591]

Manx clone? You may want to verify you are not gonna rub on the inside of the body. We just went through mock up for a buggy we are doing and got most of what we wanted with wheel offset. Something you may want to look into is a tire/wheel offset tool. I bought something like this.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/01201/10002/-1?g...GPEALw_wcB

We put the front end together without springs and we able to articulate teh front end to make sure we had a decent turning radius and were not going to hit the tops of the fenders at full deflection. Just suggesting you work all through it before you start cutting.
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D-Dubya Manx clone 1914. Ex wifes car.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Ex-wifes car.
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...

[167luckycharm]

Thanks for the reply and the link to the Wheel Rite tool. This is for my Signature Manx (#60/100).

Here's a shot of what the disassembled beam looks like.
Used a 2-1/4" bi-metal hole saw (Diablo brand) to cut out the stamped shock towers. 4" cutoff disc and angle grinder to cut out welds holding the beam clamps and steering damper mount. Did the markings for the cuts by mounting the separated tubes on my Atlas lathe between the chuck and tail-stock. The solid shock towers will be plasma-cut by my son in Oregon. I wont be needing the stamped originals in case anyone's interested. By the way. the reason for taking everything apart was to allow the tubes to be straightened on my hydraulic press. They were slightly bent. Thanks again!
Stay well everybody![/img]
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[slalombuggy]

You might have to shorten your new shock towers to fit under the body as they usually fit up in the dimples in the tub. 5/8" is way overkill unless you are using it to get some weight on the front. I've used beams with 1/4" and 3/8" flat shock towers and never had an issue. I have a 3" narrowed beam in my street buggy. Works well. I only run one set of springs in the beam and a formula vee style internal sway bar in the top tube.

brad

[167luckycharm]

Good morning Brad! Thanks for replying with your recommendations. The shock towers will be much shorter in height, as you advised. I'll run the Monroe 10002 oil-filled shocks, #5752; 8-5/8" retracted, 12-3/4" fully extended.
The beam that I've had on the car since 2001, was stock width with 3/4" thick towers and stock spindles. Only one adjuster on the lower beam, clocked 1/4" in the lowered position. Springs in the top tube were stitched welded together (1" long, 4" apart) and the center square corners were ground down to spin within the center anchor ring. Its grub screw point was shortened to allow the spring pack (now a sway bar) to rotate freely. Ride height; was too low with the adjuster in midway position. It needed to be maxed out to raise the car, but with two people on board, the tires would rub when turning a bumpy corner. I still have that modified spring pack, but don't know how it will work with the 2-1/2" drop spindles and riding only on the bottom spring pack.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. Stay well from the virus!
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[GS guy]

My CAD offset tool. Not super adjustable, but with a little squinting it works pretty good!

You might consider narrowing to the more common 2"? With that size you can readily purchase matching components from CB and probably others - spring packs, sway bar, tie rods, etc.
Jeff
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70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS!

[167luckycharm]

Hi Jeff, thanks for including the CAD cut tire/wheel profile. There's three extra sets of wheel & tire combos I plan on having for this car, depending on what era I'd present it at the shows and cruises. A set of Cragar S/S for the 70's, polished Centerlines for the 80's, and the timeless white steelies with chrome hubcaps. I have a set of the reproduction Halibrand alloy wheels that will be installed for this project. With the exception of the steelies, all other wheels are the Chevy pattern with which there's a set of drums that are drilled 5x4.75" to be installed this time around. Tire sizes vary on the front wheels, but the rears will have 295-50R15 eventually (Cragar & Halibrand already have them on). Headed back to the shop to continue the powder-coating preparations. Thanks again!
John Mr. 009
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