412 Fender Beading

[Pepperbilly]

I think the fender beading on type 4’s is different from all others.. Trying to find some for my ‘73 wagon. Looks like it is a “flat” profile. Anybody out there have success locating the proper material? A few of us out here are trying to restore to factory fresh. You gotta love the challenge!

Bill

[raygreenwood]

There are actually 3 different profiles. Starting at the front.....is the flat "T" profile fender beading that goes from the lower part of the fender under the headlight....up around the headlight where a portion of the T is not used and was either molded that way or trimmed off. It fits between fender and center chassis.

The second profile runs from just on the top side of the headlight under the edge of the hood.....along the top of the fender and is very similar to standard round top bug fender beading. I think the rear edge of the center between fender and door was sealed with a flat strip or the same profile as above the fender.

The rear strip...rear of the back door along the top exge of rear fender is the same as the type 3 "P" profile. It goes down the rear of the back fender...is trimmed/notched at the corner....and goes down to the end of the hatch.

From the hatch to tail light (sedans) or from the tailight down to apron....it reverts to the "T" profile like the front.

I have never in my life found a single piece of type 4 fender beading available.

Like other fender beading...it was colored to match the paint. But....it was not painted over at the factory. It was put on after paint.

This also means that it does not seal for shit and is major rust generator. It is also VINYL.....which means in sunny places with warm weather.....in about 6-8 years.....it curls and shrinks up.

I searched high and low for years. So.....in light of its other issues along with being unobtanium.....and it NEVER came in rolls like aftermarket beading.....each was a custom die cut part......I decided that I would not use detachable fender beading.

I decided ...and did some testing and experiments years back......that when I am ready to paint.....the fenders will be properly spaced and tightened down using stainless fender washers between body panels and chassis.

Then I will mask the areas requiring beading......and use a shaped spreader tool.....to apply paintable acrylic urethane, 25 year architectural caulk (home stores....xylene based). Caulk from both sides. Tape....apply...shape.....dry....seal the underside of the gaps under fenders....dry. Then wet sand shortly before priming with the rest of the body.

Then paint. Its slightly flexible.....and if you do a good job it will be indistinguishable from factory beading.....and the paint seals it....and it will not shrink.

My extra reasoning is that the only reason my fenders would EVER need to be removed ....is if I get hit and need body work. In that case.....it needs paint.....and in that case will have the fender beading redone as well.

Ray

[NurseryWalt]

Thanks for the detailed answer Ray. Just not the answer I was hoping for (and I didn't even ask the question). At some point I too will get to the point of searching for fender beading. Silly me, I thought I could substitute something generic!

If you do find a lead, let me know!

Walter
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'66 Bug with collector plate and '73 412 project

[raygreenwood]