For all you Small Block Chevy guys..

[Bashr52]

My sister-in-law inherited a 1960 Biscayne from her dad when he passed last year. The car was a mess, hacked together wiring, incorrectly setup brakes, rust issues in the floor, etc. It was originally a 6 cylinder 3 on the tree car, it is now has a Turbo 350 and a 350.

The car always overheated, it had the stock 6 cylinder radiator with no shroud, a hacked in aftermarket mechanical fan, leaking water pump, no thermostat, etc.

I believe the engine is a stock internal 350, only it has 305 heads, a performer RPM intake, headers, an aftermarket 4 barrel, and an MSD ignition setup.

I have installed a new 180 thermostat, new aluminum 2 core radiator, new water pump, fan shroud, and a new correctly fitting aftermarket fan. The fan has had the spacing setup to be half in/half out of the shroud. Timing is set at 14 idle, 36 at RPM.

I did put a Vintage Air AC setup on it, so there is a condenser in front of the rad now.

As long as the car is moving (even at slow speeds), the temp will sit about 185-190 max on the gauge, (180 at highway speeds), but as soon as it gets heat soaked it will start creeping up when parked. Temps could creep up to 210-215 in a few minutes.

Other than adding an electric pusher fan in front of the condenser, or just going full electric with a thermostat switch on the rad, any other ideas of what I can try?

[67rustavenger]

It should be fine at the traffic temps you posted.

How hot does it get?
It it were to hit 240°F, that would be cause for concern.

The heat soak can be combatted by turning on the AC.
Doing so should make the condenser fan come on and stay on to assist cooling the engine.
That is, if, there is an electric fan controlled by the AC.
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[NJ John]

Sometime sbc parts get mix matched and 400 parts and or wrong head gaskets. Probably not your issue. Just thought I’d throw it out there.
Air bubble in the system?
And, I think lately, guys are using pusher only electric fans. The more cfm, the better. Try Water wetter additive. It does work.
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[Bashr52]

[VW_Jimbo]

Maybe a 3 or even a 4 row radiator. That would be my first try.
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[FarmerBill]

[RUNKLE]

.

First thing you need to do is to check your temperature gauge to make sure it is operating correctly. The optimal operating range for a stock 350 should be between 185 and 220... 230 is considered overheating.

Part of your overheating problem is the 305 heads - they increase compression and have mismatched water jackets and overall low performance due to their small valves. Replace them with the correct 350 heads.

Radiator, like Jimbo said, replace it with a three or four row. I would go with a four row core, but that’s just me.

160 to 180 thermostat - your thermostat is fine.

DO NOT turn on the AC, doing so adds a load to an already overheating engine and will increase the temperature. This sounds counterintuitive but turning on the heater however will increase the flow of coolant and will aid in temp control.

.
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[Erik G]

215 is ok 220 is getting too hot

Make sure the radiator is butted up against the header panel. A lot of guys use the wrong radiator and it leaves a gap there. Air needs to flow through it not over it.

Aftermarket fan? like a flex fan? I've always heard the stock fan stock stock shroud was preferable for AC cars. The vintage air conversions really do add some heat in my experience

[skills@eurocarsplus]

SBC's usually run around 220* and 230 is considered the start of them overheating

how long does it take at idle to hit those temps?

this thing may be compromised had it been consistently running too hot. your cooling system may be a hair too small as well.
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[64 ragtop volks]

you could try using some redline water wetter to help drop temps

[Stinky123]

Chevy talk.org

Those heads....not a good idea....as mentioned and for the reasons mentioned.

The chambers, on the heads, are an issue.

Do I understand you to say....no cooling fan at all. If so, that is an issue.

[Dusty1]