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SunburntLobster Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2020 Posts: 35 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2025 5:51 am Post subject: 1950 body on to 1966 pan. Any pictures of rear body mounts? |
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Hi
I have an option to buy a cool patina 50 shell with lots of original parts however the pan is completely rotted out!
I have a fully refurbished 1966 pan with a decent 1500cc engine and gearbox, short axles, front disc conversion, 12v, etc. it drives great but the body isn't the best and I don't like the bigger windows as much.
I am not really into numbers matching originality.
It would be a massive advantage to use what I have because I know I like it and would save hassle selling it and buying another donor only to mod it to the same level.
I believe the biggest challenge is the rear mounts being different? Does anyone have a picture to demonstrate the difference? The 50 will need metalwork so makes sense for it to be modded to fit the 66 pan
Many thanks |
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wagen19 Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2007 Posts: 659 Location: germany
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2025 11:29 am Post subject: Re: 1950 body on to 1966 pan. Any pictures of rear body mounts? |
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If it´s really your will and you want to, it´s possible.
For some perfection there are some details that need attention.
You can think about welding in repair sheet material in that body area from models 61 to 66.
Maybe you can cut these sheets a bit smaller, but you need room for the twisted and higher shock towers. (and rear shocks)
The area of the two upper bolts of front end, there is also a difference.
More differences are in engine compartment and rear apron.
The stock heater boxes are higher (right side too high) to fit the engine.
The inner sheet of rear apron is too much in front for properly fitting stock engine sheet material above the muffler.
So a rear apron between model 61 to 66 would fit better (but has 2 tail pipe cut outs).
So you should think about, what kind of muffler you have, want, can be used.
You also only can use small round airfilters, if you want to go original stock.
The heater tubes on split body are about 50 mm, on a 66 heater box, they are about 60 mm diameter. But you can find 50 / 60 heater hoses.
You need split or till 7´55 rear seats and probably 8´55 to 7´70 front seats, or have to find something special.
Electric: the 50 split has main wiring in right side roof member, the 66 body alongside of left heater channel and the regulator under rear seat, left side. (Imo the 3 pole fuse box in engine compartment looks more interesting. I would go that way and original split fuse box in front.
The original wiring harness for 6 volts can be used with 12 volts, as long the condition is still good. A 12V alternator with integrated regulator is easy to install. (but newer appearance)
There are later (but rare) 12 V single speed wiper motors that can be used in split wiper system.
For engines with more than 1300 ccm, louvres or a slightly opened stock rear hood is recommended.
Good Luck
In the 80ies, I had a grey 50 standard split body on a 68 pan, converted from Autostick to Shifter and carefully welded in a steel tube with coned end for clutch cable. |
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SunburntLobster Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2020 Posts: 35 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2025 1:29 pm Post subject: Re: 1950 body on to 1966 pan. Any pictures of rear body mounts? |
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Hi, many thanks that is super useful information. Much of the inner fender area needs repairing so would make sense to weld in the new pieces with the 66 mounts. I am definitely not looking for perfection or trying to pretend it is on an early pan.
Will later 1966 heater tubes weld on to the split body?
Cheers Jack |
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wagen19 Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2007 Posts: 659 Location: germany
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2025 2:41 pm Post subject: Re: 1950 body on to 1966 pan. Any pictures of rear body mounts? |
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SunburntLobster wrote: |
Hi, many thanks that is super useful information. Much of the inner fender area needs repairing so would make sense to weld in the new pieces with the 66 mounts. I am definitely not looking for perfection or trying to pretend it is on an early pan.
Will later 1966 heater tubes weld on to the split body?
Cheers Jack |
Only my personal opinion:
For all body sheet metal parts, go original split, as much as possible.
Take heater channels till 12´53 and rear members till 7´55, if you need them.
If you need rear body heater tubes, stay also original. There are steel adapters 50/60 mm for combination of new 60 mm heater box with old 50 mm flexible heater tube.
The inner rear 61 to 66 body mount sheets have to be trimmed in front area to fit on bodies up to 7´55. It´s also possible to use sheets 12´52 to 5´55. There is les trimming needed. Now you can get them easier, than in the 80ies. The inner rear trunk area and affixing mounts for rear seats are up to 7´55. Stay on that shape! Otherwise you will get issues with touching the trans at nose cone area.
Do a good body job! You will never regret it! |
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SunburntLobster Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2020 Posts: 35 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2025 2:03 am Post subject: Re: 1950 body on to 1966 pan. Any pictures of rear body mounts? |
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quick update!
I have decided to sell the 65 and buy a split.
A 52 appeared on fb marketplace only 30 miles away, it is an ex Swedish car. It's had bit of a life but will make a cool outlaw
I will update with progress |
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Rome Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004 Posts: 10539 Location: Pearl River, NY
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Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2025 7:07 pm Post subject: Re: 1950 body on to 1966 pan. Any pictures of rear body mounts? |
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OP, I realize you decided against buying that '50 shell, but here is some info anyway:
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Will later 1966 heater tubes weld on to the split body? |
'66 heater tubes which lead the heat from the heater boxes into the body are bakelite, not metal. They bolt onto the body. Don't bother with that- just use the original metal pipes from the split, and use the "reducer" style bellows-type heater TUBES mentioned by wagen19.
The way to get around installing an engine with fresh air heater boxes into an earlier car with the lower firewall bottom edge is to install the engine without the HB. Once its installed, put the HB on. The hardest nut to reach is the upper nut for the right side HB flange at the head.
wagen19- I installed a Dec. '52 ("Zwitter") Beetle body onto a '74 chassis over 30 years ago; a US model with the semi-trailing arm rear suspension. I had to raise the bottom of the '52's body mount about 1.5 - 2" but did not need to make any clearance holes in the body for the top bolts of the shock absorbers. Then again a Zwitter already has conventional upright shocks, whereby a '50 still has "lever" type. Since the '66 chassis which the OP was planning still has the rear body mount in the same location as the '50 (if they are the same as my '52), I don't think he'd have to raise up the mounts at all.
When I installed my '52 onto the '74 chassis, the front body mounting bolts at the front axle matched up exactly. No modification work needed. Are there differences between the '50 and the '52 (Zwitter) bodies as to the front body mounts?
For a muffler with that 1500 engine you can use an EMPI single-tip style. The single pipe goes down below the apron so that there's no cutting the apron needed. I installed this onto my '77 Beetle which also had a replacement apron with NO exhaust cutouts, and it fits well under the body/apron edge.
A friend in New Jersey has a '50 Beetle with a later engine and he used this same muffler also, on his dual-port engine (Bob Cropsey gallery).
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