Offset distributor points

[69bluebugboi]

So initially I figured out that my distributor points were touching since the car didn't want to start. Went ahead and adjusted them and boom turned on perfectly, and ran for the rest of the afternoon with no issue (ran some errands for like an hour and then came back home).

I decided to head out again about 2 hours later and the car started okay but I noticed some small loss in power (very small) after only driving for about 3 minutes. I've been down this road (not literally 😂) before so I knew I'd rather pull over than get stranded on the street so I ended up making it into a shopping center and the car barely made it and it turned off on me as I was parking.

Looked at the points again and I saw that it was a small amount too close (error on my part? Didn't tighten the screw tight enough? Possible) so I adjusted again and I noticed the two points weren't aligned. Again the car started perfectly and then I still felt the car wasn't running too well since I noticed the loss of power a bit again and again when accelerating (any gear, lower and higher speeds).

My adjustments were:
- find TDC
-remove dizzy cap and rotor
- ensured I was in fact at the highest point of the cam lobe
- used a .4mm feeler gauge to set the gap and had slight resistance
- tightened screw
-noticed the offset


TLDR, noticed my points are not aligned, is this normal?


I'm new to the VW world so I don't know too much, go easy on me 😂, tia!

Using leverage on the arm to align the points:

As they are with the screw already tightened:

[heimlich]

I've heard of this happening but it is rare. It could be the points, the breaker plate, or the screw holding it down.

When screwing in the screw that holds the points you want to tighten it down but not so much that it strips out the plate that is inside.

If you remove the points and look at the bottom side does it look like it is flat?
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[69bluebugboi]

So I took the points off and noticed the issue was still present as they were still offset.

I did notice a small gap on the lower left of the arm.
Should this have an E-clip or a washer? That's the only thing that I can think of.

Adjusting the arm manually so that the points align causes that gap to disappear. Thoughts?

[Pruneman99]

You want to adjust them so the contacts line up, and close flat. Odd they seemed to bend on their own. Maybe lack of lubrication on the cam? It looks completely dry.

[69bluebugboi]

@Pruneman99 Dry cam...Possibly.... I can confirm that the cam is not lubed at all so I can see it potentially causing this (any brand recommendations on cam lube? or will something like "Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease" work?).

I know these points are pretty cheap but I'm OCD about these types of things I wanna be prepared in the future since I wanna see if this is something expected or if this is something out of the blue

[Pruneman99]

I use Bosch distributor grease. I ordered it from Heimlich (vwnos.com) He actually commented above.

I've also used super lube? I think it's called. Horrible Freight carries it.

You want a grease that won't be flung everywhere. Just a dab will do. Anything is better than completely dry.

[69bluebugboi]

@Pruneman99

ok will do.

Question, if I change out these points for the same drop-in replacement, do I need to buy a new condenser as well or can the same one remain?

[Pruneman99]

[Nicholas D]

If it were me I would just replace the points and throw the old set in the "just in case of emergency" bin in the bug. I think they are around $15 at cip1. Definitely lube the cam too.
_________________
71 Westfalia
73 Beetle

[Jimbug57]

I would get new Bosch points and condenser from heimlich at vwnos.com.
_________________
Repeat after me "I am smarter than metal!"

[TDCTDI]

[KTPhil]

X2. Unless the camera introduced some optical distortion, that pivot is cracked.

Keep your old parts as spares. New condensors do not seem to last.

[Glenn]

Personally I like the older style 2 piece points but all aluminum models use the 1 piece.

I use needle nose pliers to "gently" adjust the arm so the points make full contact and are parallel.

Remember, cars don't have distributors or points so making quality parts is not a high priority.

_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

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עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי

[Cusser]

When I worked at a dune buggy/VW rental business back in the 1970s, I found a bunch of distributors in the vehicles that had ZERO lubrication on the distributor cams, so the plastic rubbing blocks were wearing down quickly and the points gap was decreasing. I'm postulating that this is the issue here.

I made several road service calls where customers' buggies had stalled out due to this and I had to re-set points and add grease to the cam, and then check/reset the timing.

I still have a vintage tube of Bosch distributor grease, a tube lasts forever. But I also haven't had issues using a little wheel bearing grease there.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[KTPhil]

[heimlich]

Distributor grease:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2366642

_________________
www.vwnos.com [email protected]
Classic Brands. Classic Quality.
Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
5% Off your order with coupon code: 5%OFF
Restored Distributors Available (<--Click here)

[Glenn]

[69aircooled]

^^^^^
Not old, you just care about the work you do and doing things right!

[Cusser]

[Glenn]