New Affordable Crank Trigger Ignition Package!

[allamaabroad]

Hey all! Some may be familiar with my budget friendly crank trigger kits that I have been offering. I received multiple requests for a full crank trigger ignition setup, and I'm thrilled to announce that it is now available!

Even more exciting than that, I have launched my own business and website! Debbie's AirCooled Engineering has a focus on making modernizing your VW affordable and simple to do. Go check out the site at https://debbiesaircooled.com/

Anyways, here's what I'm sure you're all here for:

Debbies Crank Trigger Ignition System:
https://debbiesaircooled.com/products/debbies-crank-trigger-ignition-system

Debbie's Crank Trigger Ignition is a full package for converting Type 1 engines to crank triggered ignition, providing high levels of accuracy with full tuneability, replacing your sloppy and old technology based distributor.

Debbie's Aircooled is proud to provide the most affordable, capable, and easy to install crank trigger products on the market!

Features

100% Bolt On - No machining or special tools required
Integrated power distribution - No additional fuse or relay boxes required
Easy wiring - Simple screw terminals for all connections
Tuning through Tuner Studio - The top choice for DIY tuners
Full tuneability - Customizable for MAP, TPS, or ITB load sensing (MAP and TPS sensor option required for Independent Throttle Body algorithm)
Full data logging capability through Tuner Studio
Adjustable rev limit and 2 step
Optional warmup sensor for temperature based timing adjustments
Timing idle control - Smooth and steady idle in all conditions
2.5 Bar MAP sensor - Suitable for NA and boosted applications
Optional IDF/DRLA Throttle Position Sensor - Provides more accurate load measurements for dual carb engines with high duration cam

Our unique ECU features an integrated power distribution system allowing for the simplest and cleanest DIY wiring on the market. Based on the popular Speeduino architecture, this system is tuned through Tuner Studio, allowing for spark tables based on common algorithms.

The ECU features full data logging capabilities through Tuner Studio and includes inputs for temperature and wideband O2 sensors, allowing for more informed tuning of your spark table.

Our innovative wiring system uses simple screw terminals, allowing easy customization of length without special crimping tools. Integrated power distribution means no need for external fuse boxes or relay boards...it's all self contained!

Includes:

ECU with Integrated Power Distribution and EZWire
Debbie's Crank Trigger Package - T1
8' Pre-Terminated Customizable Wiring Harness
Ignition Coil of Choice
Tuning Cable (Short)
Optional: Warmup Sensor
Optional: Dual Carb Throttle Position Sensor
Coils:

Coil options currently include 4 post Subaru and VW coils.

The Subaru coil uses the common HEI terminals (found on many aftermarket VW distributors)

VW coil uses LS2 style terminals. This option includes spark plug ends and boots to convert spark plug wires over to this style of terminal.

LS2 Coil and Coil On Plug options coming soon!

Load Sensing:

Load sensing options include MAP, TPS, or Both.

MAP sensor is best for single carb or stock applications. MAP sensor uses the pressure in the intake manifold for load sensing and requires a vacuum line.

TPS sensor is for dual carb (IDF or DRLA) only. TPS is often the best option for dual carb, large cam, large displacement engines. This option has the quickest and most accurate response for dual carb engines and does not rely on vacuum signal, which is often unstable with high performance engines. Most engines are more responsive with TPS.

The Both option will allow for the use of the ITB algorithm (Independent Throttle Bodies) which closely resembles dual carb engines. This option will provide the most accurate and responsive engine as it uses a combination of TPS and MAP sensors.


To purchase, visit the link below. Thanks, and I hope to hear from you soon!
https://debbiesaircooled.com/products/debbies-crank-trigger-ignition-system

[anthax]

This looks interesting.

And affordable too. Just the currency conversion that sucks here at the moment.

[slalombuggy]

Cool, any plans for a TPS bracket for IDA/EPC carbs. Looks like a very well put together kit. Is there any initial maps installed or is it a complete diy? Would love to do a stealth ignition system on my 911 fanned 1968cc with 48s.

Great job!!!!

[allamaabroad]

[allamaabroad]

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Is that six IGBT drivers there? Or is it "other" to220 transistors?
Those IGBT's make eome heat. Most put a heat sink on them.
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[slalombuggy]

Not so worried about the trigger wheel and pickup. I'm wanting to try to install the coil and wires inside the shroud and have nothing going thru the shroud at the heads.

I have calipers and one of my EPC carbs available if you want to pm me a diagram of the dimensions your seeking I'd be happy to measure them out for you.

[allamaabroad]

[allamaabroad]

[DeathBySnuSnu]

[allamaabroad]

[allamaabroad]

[raygreenwood]

This looks like a very cool system!

I have a suggestion for you that will help reliability immensely.

The screw type terminals are not a good idea. You will find that in the history of production EFI from 1966 (D-jet) until now, there has never been a millivolt sensitive application (EFI or other engine controls) that has used a screw type wire connector or inline (in the wire loom) solder....for VERY good reasons.

D-jet had its own serious issues as it aged. Every single long term reliable system (which ruled out most GM systems through the 90's) since D-jet has used a dual cantilever female terminal on a male pin.

The problem with screw terminals is that they REQUIRE the use of crimp on ferrules. This allows proper crimp compaction of the wire strands....BUT....does not get rid of the problem that screw terminals are notorious for.



Vibration and heat cycling. The heat cycling causes expansion which makes teh screw tighter...which compresses the metal ferrule harder. When it cools down and shrinks....the dent made by the screw remains deeper. Over heat cycles...with added vibration....the screw to ferrule joint gets loose and connectivity suffers. You will constantly be retightening these connectors chasing gremlins....until the ferrule gets mashed out and then you have to snip and replace. These terminals are also the bane of car stereo people and are only used on large gauge power wires like 10-8 AWG...whose ferrules are very thick walled and do not suffer as much.

These are what the ferrules look like.

I like the thought that special crimping tools are not needed but its really not an issue these days.

You can buy an excellent knock off of the Paladin 1300 crimper pliers for as low as $25. The D-sub dies can be had for $30-ish. This will do virtually all fuel injection ECU and female connector terminals on the market.
Buy a second die set for about $30-ish nd this same crimper will do any chassis and engine harness terminal in your vehicle except flag terminals.

This is a proper dual cantilever terminal used in roughly 98% of all vehicles world wide since ~1974 (except 80's through early 2000's GM...but they use them now):

The leaf springs in these micro D-sub terminals keep proper contact at any angle, vibration and heat cycling....on the males pins. Ray

[pig-pen]

Quick question...

does the unit have boost retard function with the MAP sensor?
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1954 L227 Type 113
1964 L31 Type 265

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Did say tuner studio.....do yes i would expect boost retard. That on board map would probably do 20 lbs.

My luck with terminal ends is vastly different than mentioned above, but a lot of my needs have been different than "normal".

My number one tip is to have the instructions in plain wording. Less or no theory....more "coil 1 to number 4 terminal. The hardest part about getting a grip on yhe megasquirt stuff was the naming of stuff.....as in at one point a part would be called by its function (map sensor) then later by it's part number, then later again by the brand manufacturer. then later by its digi key refernce.
Pick a name and always referr to it the same. Maybe whatever name it is in tuner studio.
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[raygreenwood]

[clonebug]

Megasquirt (B&G) relay boards have been out for 20 plus years with screw terminals.
It does work and I used the same Relay board from 2013 thru 2021 and never had a wiring issue.
Any wiring can have an issue but if you take a little time to make it neat and tight it can work well........even with screw terminals.
Keep it out of the weather....which it was meant to be... and you should have many trouble free miles.

First pic is the 2013 thru 2021 version with many additions and changes throughout those years.....and the reason there are so many terminals from adding features and upgrades.

This is the new wiring for 2022 to current.....Still getting changed as needed but was tied into all the original EFI wiring back to the engine.

Someday I might do a complete rewire using smaller gauge wires to shrink the harness size but it works for now and I'm not that bored to tear it completely down.
Last I counted there were over 40 wires running to the engine.
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[clonebug]

[raygreenwood]

[clonebug]

The connector MS uses on the MS1 and MS2 is really just a computer D-Plug but like I've said.....It has been flawless for many years.....Is it ideal? Maybe not but it does work and works well.
I have switched to a MS3Pro-EVO and it has AMP style plugs on them. While they might be better they do have their own issues and could cause people problems too. Getting a good crimp if you are new to them is a bit of a challenge.
My new go to is the Deutsch Connector. I am totally impressed with them and once you have the solid pin crimper they are very simple to install and remove and work well.
Most all my connections are replaced with them except the factory connector on the sensors and injectors.
My suggestion is to check your connections every winter as a maintenance item.

I pull my buggy apart every winter to either upgrade it or just look it over. The electrical connections get checked and cycled every time and I do not have any issues with them.
It is a Volkswagen and therefore needs a certain amount of maintenance......My upgrades do reduce that to oil changes and valve adjustments and that's about it.
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