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Cheap And Easy Ways To Sound Proof A Bus
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stevo_2006
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 6:04 am    Post subject: Cheap And Easy Ways To Sound Proof A Bus Reply with quote

yeah im on a limited buget and wanted to sound proof my bus is there a cheap way i know dynamat is pretty expensive all help would be nice thanks
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chopper76
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heard good things about fatmat - a cheaper version of dynamat. www.fatmat.com
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ouch. $18 shipping.
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westy demi-god
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DurocShark wrote:
Ouch. $18 shipping.


Stuff's heavy. You can get Fatmat on eBay in bulk 100 sq. ft. packages for ~$100 (plus roughly ~30 shipping and handling). Way cheaper than dynamat.
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have seen more than a few buses with rust all the way through from insulation that collects and keeps moisture in it. The neatest idea I have heard for avoiding the moisture trap and soundproofing was from Clara (who sells bus door panels) who buys (big bubble) bubble wrap and glues or places it behind the panels for soundproofing and I guess insulation to some extent. I intend to do this on my doublecab when the time comes.
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static
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Cheap And Easy Ways To Sound Proof A Bus?

Earplugs.
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

static wrote:

Earplugs.


OMFG!
Laughing
Good one.
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westy demi-god
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TimGud wrote:
I have seen more than a few buses with rust all the way through from insulation that collects and keeps moisture in it.


Segue to a new topic: Cheap and easy ways to rustproof your bus. Check out www.eastwood.com Those guys have great rustproofing solutions. BTW, I don't believe dynamat and related products absorb moisture.
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First layer against the bus's metal skin (dynamat or what ever other sound proofing material you want to use). Then I would use insulation to fill the space between, lets say the door skin and the door panal. For the insulation I used water heater (the kind you have in your house) insulation wrap. This stuff comes in smaller rolls and is easier to manage. I've also used the bubble wrap insulation in places like the space between the roof and the ceiling board. It sound proofs and helps keep it cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 9:28 am    Post subject: Spay Foam Reply with quote

I have used spay foam. You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes. Took everything out of the bus, seats & panels, and spay it in all the hollow spots that was possible and if I couldn’t get to some of them I would drill some small holes to access them. You need to drill multiple holes to fill the voids and allow the air to vent out. It’s a little messy and you need to let it dry completely before trimming off the overspill.
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timely thread. If I can slightly redirect, has anyone measured or experienced specific results with soundproofing specific areas? Should you do the engine compartment? Take out the cabinets and do the metal in there? What I know about noise control says you can waste a lot of time and money in areas that don't matter, and miss the 10% of area where the noise is really coming from.
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panasonic90
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would imagine that bubblewrap gives good thermal isolation but not much against noise, has anyone tried it?
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
good thermal isolation but not much against noise


It is noisy unless you first lay down the sound deading material. But I'm not sure I can accurately say it's "quite'r". Its more quite then NOT having the insulation. Vibration from the outside seems to constantly be there no matter what you do..... If anyone can prove this wrong I'd love to hear how you turned you rattle box into a Lexus.
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used "Great Stuff" cans in the sliding door, rear cargo door, and engine lid. It is VERY quiet now in the doors. I also insulated the whole car with pink "cotton candy" insulation. The way I did it was to cut the insulation in small pieces and make a complete vapor barrier wherever it was going to go. I even put it up front by the headlights. A trick is to cut up small pieces of insulation and go around the pieces with plastic OUTSIDE the car. Then pack the insulation wherever. The resemble little plastic wrapped, insulation pillows.

Also, before I did ANY of this. I put down a layer of snow roof for rust proofing. Its everywhere. I am not concerned about rust.
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 11:20 am    Post subject: sorry to pi$$ on everyone's parade but... Reply with quote

I kind of like the noise. I mean... it probably would get old having to drive it everyday, but as my fun ride, I like the sound of the V'dub engine and the vibrations. Part of what brings back all the memories of having a bug as a kid growing up.
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Bottomend
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Gregboy, I'd be VERY CAREFUL about useing 'cotton candy" insulation. I tried putting it in my bus when I first bought it (2.5 years ago). I placed it in front of the kick panels near the headlights just like you too.

I found that water had seeped in to the trough near the floor and had started to rust. I live in So Cal and it's hot here most of the time so there is plenty of time for stuff to dry out. It hadn't rained in more than a month and I still pulled out soaking wet "cotton candy"!

The basic priciple of sound absorbsion is to allow air to ( sound waves) to pass through material in order to dampen it's engery flow on it's return trip back towards it's source. Covering the " cotton candy" with plastic to prevent moisture from entering will limit this to a large degree.

The sound dampening benifits you're hearing are most likely due to resonance dampening thats occuring because the "cotton candy packs" are pressing against the metal bodywork ( this is the source of the resonances).

A better alternative it to uses a non absorbant weighted material ( dynamat ect) that kills the resonances by dampening the metal it's attached to. I'm looking into magnetically attached products. permanant or semi permantantlly attached materials can only invite moisture to take up residence.

If your bus is sealed tight ( I mean really sealed tight) there wont be a problem but a few drips can start the process in motion...
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm, I have been thinking about how I will go about this.
How about the styrofoam type house insulation? Cut it into big peices,maybe use aluminum tape to get them together once inside door panels?
Does that stuff absorb moisture?
Not so good for engine compartment or floors, but other areas maybe.
It is cheap and light. You could double it up.
Save the pricy stuff for where it counts.
I am haveing a hard time commiting permanatly sticking something to the metal. I would like to be able to check on the rust possability every once in a while.
Just a thought.
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freshvw
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 2:55 pm    Post subject: sound proofing Reply with quote

I used a product that kinda looks like bubble wrap with aluminum foil on both sides. You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes. Not too expensive, won't collect water and works pretty well.
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Devon-Dyno-Soar118
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Styrofoam is extremely bad in this type of application as it is flammable and also very harmful to the environment, both in its manufacture and in biodegradability. The foil bubble wrap stuff is no better, but is supposedly the equvalent of 115mm of conventional insulation. The stuff made of re-cycled rags is good, but it does absorb water. In theory there should not be water inside the bus anyway. I used some of the bubble wrap stuff to make curtains, they work really well, reflect sunlight and keep you warm on cooler days. I just cut them out and used sticky velcro to hold them on. My bus is a bit of a rat so I didn't mind the bits of velcro at each window corner.
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Devon-Dyno-Soar118 wrote:
Styrofoam is extremely bad in this type of application as it is flammable and also very harmful to the environment, both in its manufacture and in biodegradability.


I never said I wanted my bus to biodegrade or catch on fire for that matter. Confused

But, I see your point.
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