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"Digi-John" Megasquirt-2 Project
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valvecovergasket
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2024 1:08 pm    Post subject: Re: "Digi-John" Megasquirt-2 Project Reply with quote

marcotheturbosteamengine wrote:
valvecovergasket wrote:
back in the early ms2 days we used to build tach circuits out of gutted relays as well. you can drive your non-digital tach off that also. pull the "lever" bit out of the relay so it doesnt make noise. thats the cheapo way to do it Laughing


Unfortunately this doesn’t work for the Vanagon dash, It needs a much bigger amp/booster than the really circuits that are available online.


this was on coil-negative driven tachs, but i havent tried it on a vanagon!
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Run8Stud
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2024 6:12 pm    Post subject: Re: "Digi-John" Megasquirt-2 Project Reply with quote

So here's a question: I've removed the crankshaft pulley and sent it off to have a 36-1 trigger wheel installed; when i go to reinstall it, is there any reason why i couldn't just add a bit of blue lock-tite to the bolt and torque it to a reasonable amount instead of 258ft-lbs? Why was such a high torque necessary?
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markswagen
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2024 8:53 pm    Post subject: Re: "Digi-John" Megasquirt-2 Project Reply with quote

that's not something l'd be willing to try, on my engine, or anyone else's.

it's quite easy to lock the engine to tighten or loosen the engine situ without the VW special tool, if automatic, you can just put a socket on one of the torque converter bolts, on a manual transmission, there are a few hole in the flywheel that meet up with the hole in the block designed for access to the torque converter bolts.

Run8Stud wrote:
So here's a question: I've removed the crankshaft pulley and sent it off to have a 36-1 trigger wheel installed; when i go to reinstall it, is there any reason why i couldn't just add a bit of blue lock-tite to the bolt and torque it to a reasonable amount instead of 258ft-lbs? Why was such a high torque necessary?

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GoEverywhere
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2024 10:43 am    Post subject: Re: "Digi-John" Megasquirt-2 Project Reply with quote

Run8Stud wrote:
So here's a question: I've removed the crankshaft pulley and sent it off to have a 36-1 trigger wheel installed; when i go to reinstall it, is there any reason why i couldn't just add a bit of blue lock-tite to the bolt and torque it to a reasonable amount instead of 258ft-lbs? Why was such a high torque necessary?


The easy answer is because 258ft/lbs *IS* a reasonable amount. Wink

The long winded answer is because there is a tremendous amount of torque changes on that nut when the engine switches speeds and it needs to be very tight to not come loose.

Lock-tite isn't designed to deal with torque like that. Its meant to keep things from coming loose more due to vibration. You'd be HIGHLY likely to have your pulley come off at speed and hose everything up. Don't cut corners like that, its not hard to do correctly with a torque wrench.
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markswagen
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2024 12:05 pm    Post subject: Re: "Digi-John" Megasquirt-2 Project Reply with quote

don't forget there's an O ring on the end of the crank behind that pulley.
it likely could do with replacement, if you haven't already.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

l think l have some, and l can for sure tighten that bolt correctly.
my number is down there
v
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Hammy1
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2024 4:28 am    Post subject: Re: "Digi-John" Megasquirt-2 Project Reply with quote

If the crank bolts is loose you will damage the pulley and or key way in the crank……sigh……

Jon h
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Run8Stud
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2024 8:44 am    Post subject: Re: "Digi-John" Megasquirt-2 Project Reply with quote

Thanks guys! 258ft-lbs it shall be.
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Run8Stud
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2024 5:50 pm    Post subject: Re: "Digi-John" Megasquirt-2 Project Reply with quote

I got my crankshaft pulley back from the Dub Shop today, beautifully modified with a 36-1 trigger wheel. I got the thing torqued back into place, installed the new sensor and wired it in.

I had to change my ignition settings in TunerStudio for the new wheel:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm happy to report two issues seem to be solved by triggering the ignition this way vs the old distributor:
1) I had a decent amount of dizzy slop which caused the timing to bounce around a few degrees; the timing is now rock-solid dead-nuts A-OK
2) My random RPM blips (hall signal noise) seem to be cured; it would seem the original VW hall sensor was the source of that noise

A celebratory Chic-Fil-A run was in order, so I drove the van thru town for about 30 minutes and the engine seems to be smoother at idle and low-throttle.
My next project will be to wire up a little cable so that if I need to re-DigiFant the motor for smog I can easily hook up the VW hall sensor again.
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