Steel Wheel Painting Decisions

[DesertG]

Hey Guys, can you help me decide what to do.

I bought four new wheels for my Bug and want to paint them a single color.

I was going to scuff them up and paint with WW spray paint which has an Acrylic Lacquer base according to their tech guys. My thinking about doing it this way was, when I get chips, I could just sand and repaint easily and cheaply. Also, I was thinking about using a 1K Acrylic Lacquer clear by Duplicolor on top.

On the other hand, I suck at this type of work. Should I take to a body shop and have them do a base and clear for me. What do you think a body shop would charge. Also, if a body shop does it, getting a chip from taking the hub caps on and off or from rocks would be more challenging for me to fix and have it look right.

I don't want to powdercoat.

What would you do.

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1965 Beetle, 1970 1600cc DP 60HP, 12v

[jitbba]

WW paint is nice but chips/flakes VERY easily. I suggest following it up with a clear coat that would be compatible. The clear will be much more durable to prevent scratching from hubcaps, etc but keep in mind the longer you let them cure, the more durable the paint will be

2K clear will probably be a better choice for longevity
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My other ride is a Zildjian

[esde]

A good 2k paint, allowed to fully harden is very durable. And, wheels are very forgiving to paint; if I can do it anyone can do it. Also, if you experiment, you can figure out how to get the caps off without chipping the paint. I made a second hubcap tool from 1/8" tig welding rod, and covered the ends with shrink wrap, it lets me get under the cap on both sides without having a steel edge right on the paint
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[DesertG]

[jinx758]

Howdy ...

I think a 2K paint/clear (aka- 2pack) simply means it must be mixed with a hardener.

Even auto parts houses have them. There is a small reservoir on the bottom of the can that must be punched into the main can & mixed thoroughly.

Fully curing allows the solvents to evaporate or "off gas" from the mixture.

I scuffed & sanded an old metal toolbox that needed some love. I used Rust-Oleum (no hardener) and it took almost 2months before my finger nail didn't leave an indention.


Good luck ... stay safe

jinx
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" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference

You can't push a rope


VALVES (cold)
POINTS
TIMING
CARB (fully warmed engine)

SCRAPE ALL GROUNDS

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[esde]

[74 Thing]

You could use Spraymax 2k clear. They have a mat, satin, and high gloss

https://www.google.com/search?q=spray+max+2k+clear...p;ie=UTF-8

[DesertG]

I can't believe how these turned out! WW L466 silver beige, then Spraymax 2K. I did not spray a test panel first, I just gambled.

I used a red scotch-guard pad on the rim paint, then 3x silver beige, then 5x coats of Spraymax.

I read incessantly about 2K paint and the isocyanates and wore extensive PPE.

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1965 Beetle, 1970 1600cc DP 60HP, 12v

[74 Thing]

Good job! Did you use the gloss or satin 2k clear?

Make sure you tell the guys who install the tires and tire valves to be careful and do not scratch.

You should have good durability.

[DesertG]

[MuzzcoVW]

Your wheels look awesome! I'm not a fan of powder coated wheels either, had far better results with epoxy primer and 2K paint... and you don't get that annoying buildup between the hoop and wheel center! SprayMax is an awesome project. I've used it on several projects over the years including whole bumper covers. VERY durable if applied correctly.

[DesertG]

Turned out. Now I am afraid to take them off. I hate the hubcaps snapping down on the new paint.
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1965 Beetle, 1970 1600cc DP 60HP, 12v