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Pivot bolt shims???
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Wulfthang
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2024 9:24 pm    Post subject: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

I replaced my rear trailing arms with a plus one inch set. Now my toe in is 7/8 of an inch. Most of it is on the left side. Can I add shims to the inside without removing the trailing arm from the car?
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Wulfthang
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2024 9:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

Anybody?
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 6:51 am    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

The slotted holes in the spring plates for the trailing arm mounting bolts are what use to set toe.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 7:03 am    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

Then what are the shims for?
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oprn
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 7:38 am    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

Good question. The 944 has basically the same trailing arms and has no shims. Toe adjustment is all on the slotted spring plates.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 9:29 am    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

There are two large washers that fit on pivot bolt. Both of these go on outside of pivot bushing.
You need to show these shims you asking about.
I have worked on IRS suspension since 1970 and have never heard or seen any kind of shim.

if you cannot adjust the toe by sliding the arm back and forth with bolts in spring plates, then something either bent or built incorrectly.
Trailing arms made in China have had known problems for many years that have never been corrected as far I know.
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Dan_Lockwood
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 9:57 am    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

Wulfthang wrote:
I replaced my rear trailing arms with a plus one inch set. Now my toe in is 7/8 of an inch. Most of it is on the left side. Can I add shims to the inside without removing the trailing arm from the car?


Where are you measuring the 7/8" toe-in; at the front and rear of the tires? How do you know the left has more toe-in than the right? Relative to what?

I'm a newbie to IRS rears and just getting back into VW's, out since the early 70's.

I have 3x3 trailing arms and the slots in the spring plate seemed the obvious place to tweak for toe-in. The inner pivot bolt mount is not very flexible and will allow in the bushing, some twisting for outer toe adjustment, but as other have said, this is NOT the place for adjustments.

I had mine up on the 2-post lift and the back wheels/tires off. I have no front suspension except for the front beam assembly installed. I found true centerline of the chassis, as it's welded together. Took the center of the rear torsion bar housing and the center of the front beam. This is really what's going to steer your buggy.

I used 4' aluminium bars on the top of each rear rotor and centered them on the axle center, or close to that as I could. I took a long piece of 3/4" conduit and clamped it to the front beam so each end stuck out way past the front tires for safe measure. From the front beam centerline, I placed some basic measurements out where I thought the rear would align. I aligned the chalk line so it was perfectly aligned along the full 4' of the aluminium bars; kind of like laying bricks with a chalk line. I set the rear trailing arms at what I think will be the approximate ride height. I used chalk line clamped to the rear of the aluminium bars and stretched them forward to the front cross conduit.

I quickly found that I could get my toe-in where I wanted it, but it was way off center from the front end. I think this is where guys go wrong, not squaring the rear with the front. After considerable tweaking, I ended up with about 1/2" toe-in at the front, which would still be toe-in at the rear, but a lot less I'm guessing. I had one extra hole in the trailing arm that was not aligned with another spring plate hole. Also, I have adjustable rear spring plates, not that it matters for toe-in adjustments. Once I was satisfied that I was where I wanted it, I drilled through holes into the spring plates and a grade 8 1/2" bolt fit snuggly. I hoping that when I tear it all down for paint etc, I can just reassemble everything and place my KEY bolts into those holes and my toe-in should be where it was on the hoist.

Sorry for the novel on how I did this. It was just a newbie trying to figure it out the best he could... Smile

I will say that when tweaking the trailing arms into place for the proper toe-in, I had to pry the trailing arms quite hard to get them to twist back enough to hit my numbers.

Good luck!

Dan
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 11:30 am    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

What Dan is alluding to is "String Box Alignment"....

Goes something like this....

https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/at-home-alignment-how-to-string-align-your-car

You can find various examples for most any brand vehicle.... One of the best one was for me was aligning my jeep suspension.... But can't find link at moment....
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Wulfthang
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 2:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

I used a variation of the String Box method except with lasers. The 7/8 toe in is at the front leading edge of the tire as high as it could go and still clear the undercarriage, exact same height front to rear. Measurement device was a tape measure. The "Pivot Shims" that I referred to, are the pivot bolt washers.

At one point in my life, I was trained to do alignments on American made cars and then later on, racing motorcycles. I still remember what the words mean and how they work but I have not ever applied them to a Volkswagen type drive/suspension. Please pardon my ignorance. I would have sworn that I read that VW rear Toe could be adjusted by adding/removing pivot washers as needed always leaving two at the outside.

I was only working on that part of it anyway as a last resort. I tried the oblong slot adjustments in the spring plate/trailing arm mounts and yes, it fixed the Toe In but did nothing for the excess Positive Camber. So I was trying the Pivot Bolt Shim aka Washer method which apparently, doesn't exist.

I have a double spring plate and the trailing arm fits between them. There are three slotted holes for bolts. (OEM had a fourth bolt hole) The new trailing arms are Plus One Inch and standard width. Bushings are new. The pivot bolt mounts on the torsion housing look OEM with no cuts or adjustments.

I can adjust the Toe In just fine with the slotted adjustments but how do I adjust the Camber? It's way to much.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 4:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

Dale M. wrote:
What Dan is alluding to is "String Box Alignment"....

Goes something like this....

https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/at-home-alignment-how-to-string-align-your-car

You can find various examples for most any brand vehicle.... One of the best one was for me was aligning my jeep suspension.... But can't find link at moment....


I didn't even know there was a name for it, go figure... Smile

Dan
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 4:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

Wulfthang wrote:
I can adjust the Toe In just fine with the slotted adjustments but how do I adjust the Camber? It's way to much.


As far as I know, you cannot adjust the camber on a welded trailing arm.

I have 3x3 trailing arms with the axle carriers made of aluminium and bolt into the trailing arm's end plates.

At my guessed at ride height, I have about 1 degree positive camber, tipped out. At full up, I have about 1 degree negative, tipped inward. I had to shim one of my carriers so I would have similar camber degrees between left and right axles. I'm within .3 degrees from side to side at the same trailing arm up/down angles. Close enough for the company I keep.

Unless you can heat and bend a trailing arm, I can't see how you would adjust camber. I my case I was just trying to get the "OFF" side to match the good side.

Maybe others here have ideas to help you out.

Dan
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Wulfthang
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 7:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

I'll just slot the holes and crank it up with a pry bar. Ok, onward>
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 8:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

Trailing arm controls camber.... There is no adjustment, its either correct or you have bad arms....
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 8:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

Trailing arm controls camber.... There is no adjustment, its either correct or you have bad arms....
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Wulfthang
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 8:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

Dale M. wrote:
Trailing arm controls camber.... There is no adjustment, its either correct or you have bad arms....

Uhhmm no. If the pivot bolt mount was welded on at the wrong angle, it could cause all kinds of problems including + or - camber. I'll just slot the holes and crank it up some.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2024 6:35 am    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

If you are doing a swing axle to IRS conversion then yes the inner pivot mount position has everything to do with both camber and toe adjustment. Fore and aft changes the toe and up and down changes the camber. Once the brackets are welded in there is no more adjustment there.

I thought long and hard about building an offset bushing so that as you rotated it you could change toe and camber to some small degree after welding on the brackets. It would work but both values would change as you rotated it and the change would be fairly small. You could likely get the change you want in one of the 4 quadrants.

Anyway in the end I just moved the brackets around until all was good and welded them solid. If you are working with a factory IRS pan then no there is no adjustment possible on that pivot point.

Unless someone markets an offset bushing…
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2024 7:23 am    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

I am using Laser Inovation +1 stock width rear train arm on my buggy and have no excess camber problem. The inner pivot mounts are stock VW.
What brand of trailing arms do you have?
My setup I am using 1/2" bolts for spring plate to trailing arm attachment.
I have seen others that had problems with camber use smaller then the stock 12mm bolts use 7/16" diameter bolts.
With the offset pivot points, there will always be camber change when suspension cycles.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2024 7:26 am    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

I'm not sure what brand these are. I got them from Chirco's here in Tucson and they're a decent shop who sells good quality stuff. I'm using 7/16 bolts and will slightly notch the holes. I'll make it work.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2024 4:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

I was able to adjust camber a little on my 3x3 arms. In a perfect world the center line of the spring plate would line up with the centetline of the stub axle. I had to put the stub axle centerline below the spring plate center line to bring the top of my tires in towards the center of the buggy. I did this before I drilled the 3rd hole. I used a rack at the shop my boy worked at. We had jacks under the spring plates, strap across the top of the tires, and additional straps to pull the tires around for toe. Then we drilled the 3rd hole. Ain't nothin easy anymore.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2024 10:27 am    Post subject: Re: Pivot bolt shims??? Reply with quote

Porsche had camber adjustment on the cast arms that worked like that. It had an eccentric bolt in the spring plate so that you could twist the arm relative to the spring plate. When your rotate the arm, it tips the tire.

You can get the same effect on big arms by oversizing the spring plate bolt slots and twisting the arm.

One arm I had was so bad that I actually had to cut the bearing housing out and weld it back in.
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