1800cc (1799cc) Engine Build

[Murt]

Well
I have just completed my first engine tear down, and thoroughly enjoyed it, and have decided to use this AE code case as the basis for my very first build.

I have now got 99% of the parts I need, and have the case cleaned ready to send off to the machine shop for Align bore. I also want to pull a couple of the OE plugs and tap/clean some more and then re-plug with some brass NPT plugs.

I know that some will suggest that as it's going in for machining I should go to 90.5/92mm, but I have bought the AA 74mm Crank and 88mm B&P kit and also nice CB 5.325" Rods from a Samba member on here.

This is what I'm working with, and now it's a heck of a lot cleaner as you can see from as it was to now.

I'm going to document the build, and will be recording it on here as I learn, hopefully with a lot of positive input

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1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Brian_e]

While its at the machine shop, you should have it bored for 90.5's, or better yet, 94's.










Sorry. I just had to get that out of the way.


Carry on.


Brian
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So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok

Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts

[veedubcrazy]

Cylinder head stud inserts, please! or commonly called case savers...
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1967 Deluxe Sedan
1971 Squareback - "The Silver Surfer"

[Dave Becker]

[JPB6061]

[icemanhd]

Reminder that 85.5, 87, and 88mm pistons have to be notched to clear the 74mm crank due to their full (stock) length skirts. In my opinion you are better off paying to have the case opened for 90.5s which have shorter skirts and don't require grinding on your pistons. Your already paying to have the heads opened up for thick wall 88s (which I assume is what you are using, the "slip in" 88s are garbage and eat into the head, have to retorque they heads multiple times) so not that much more to get the case opened up and you will gain a 97cc by going with the 90.5s.
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71 Drag Ghia
67 Bug, Hot VWs feature car
68 912
76 912E
87 911 Carrera

[Murt]

Hi @icemanhd
I hear you, but have already committed to doing the 1800cc as my 'learning build, and have already done a dry mock up.

I have just retired from working at a Nuclear Plant here in the UK, and was lucky enough to have access to a couple of first class machinists in the Mech workshop, and have had the 88mm skirts reduced 0.202" to clear, so I am really committed now Once the 1800, is done, and I have gained more experience, I am going to build a 2007cc, new Autolinea case arrived today, so looks like I have a lot of work to keep me busy in my first year of retirement
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[icemanhd]

Hi Murt,
sounds like you have a good handle on the clearancing issues via skirt machining. Food for thought, one of my favorite builds is 76 chevy rod journal with 5.5" rods and 92mm thick wall B pistons which gets you to 2020cc plus the case clearancing is minimal (78mm is a little more clearancing but make sure you stick with the smaller chevy journal in lieu of bigger VW rod journal). The 5.5" rods give you a little better rod ratio and with stroker pistons the deck height comes out almost perfect.
_________________
71 Drag Ghia
67 Bug, Hot VWs feature car
68 912
76 912E
87 911 Carrera

[Murt]

Hello again chaps, I’m after some more advice if I may ? It’s about Bearings. My case is back from the Machine Shop, bad news is that they don’t machine for case savers so looking like I’m going to have to stay with the 10mm studs. The good news is that the case checks out and I’m going to build it. So my problem is that the case is align bored 0.50 and standard thrust. I’m searching for a set of bearings and can find case 0.50 standard thrust, but they are 0.50 crank as well ? so I’m not sure what I should get, am I missing something ?
I’ll be using a new AA 74mm VW Journal crank on the build along with the CB 1287 super race rods 5.325” VW Journal as well

_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Murt]

Am I confusing 0.5 (metric) with 0.196”) and should be searching for 0.20 case ?
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[icemanhd]

[Murt]

Thank you for that @Icemanhd, not having a lot of luck finding these over here I'll keep looking
Murt

Edit
Found these (Main Bearing Set Standard Crank, 0.50 Case, 1.0 Thrust 1200cc–1600cc 1961 on) I have a standard thrust bearing, so hopefully going to try these
https://www.justkampers.com/111198471a-main-bearin...61-on.html
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[icemanhd]

[Murt]

Thank you, I just looked on the AA site, and they want £97.00p($122.00) to ship to here
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Zed999]

[Murt]

Hi Zed999
Yes, totally agree, but just recently had a really good experience with RossWulf, ordered from them, and they have a fixed shipping of $27 to the UK, which I thought was absolutely brilliant, and their stuff is really good quality

Edit PS, there are a few guys on this forum, who I won't name, who will also go the extra mile to help their fellow VW enthusiasts
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Murt]

Hi all
Hopefully you all had a good Christmas ?
I'm going to get back to the workshop tomorrow for a couple of hours, time most likely spent just measuring stuff, and the Bearings are en route, but I would appreciate more advice ?

As I said earlier in the thread, the machine shop would not do case savers, which leaves me with the 10mm OE studs, I have read up on lots of threads regarding replacing the old studs with a new set of Chromoly, and that also seems to be a No No ?

So, If I re-use my old 10mm studs on the AE case (obviously I don't know any history of the engine, it's usage, heat cycles ? etc) what is the best route to go ?

Old studs cleaned thoroughly in my Ultrasonic cleaner.

Do I try and run a tap into the old case threads ? even though they have been cleaned

Would some sort of sealer be used on the studs as they are re-installed ? Permatex Aviation ? Permatex/Loctite thread sealer, Ultra Black ???

Cheers
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1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[dunk]

Respectfully, As has been mentioned a few times before...

Fit case savers. There's a reason vw changed to them. Any insert that increases the diameter and amount of thread contact, increases the amount of torque the fastener/base material can withstand by a large amount.

You mentioned that you've retired from a nuclear plant and have access to machinists.

Talk to them. The job isnt difficult, just a bit time consuming, because it all has to be straight and perpendicular. For 8mm, You need 12x1.5 thread tap and the relevant 8mm case savers. And some loctite to install the case savers. Leave the rest to the machinists. They could do it easily.

Seeing as you're going 88mm. I think id even prefer 10mm case savers and 10mm studs, to no case savers.

Good luck with it!

[Murt]

So
Engine case has had the 8mm case savers installed and I should have it back tomorrow. Today I’m having a Carb day, and so need some advice please ?
This is a ‘pair’ of new IDF 36’s. I have literally just opened up the boxes, and straight away I have some questions. I would like to relocate the fuel in connections to the rear. From what I’ve read, this seems like quite a chore ? Has anyone here set up a set of these out of the box ? I have a set of velocity stacks for them as well, and it looks like I’ll need to drill and tap a 4mm hole ? and as I say hopefully someone on here has done this successfully or can point me in the direction of a thread that goes into depth on the subject of the 36’s ?
Cheers
Some photos below

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1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Alstrup]

Swop the carb tops. End of story.

Is that 36 stacks, or 40mm?
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993