Mechanical Fuel gauge wire cut repair question

[MostafaShams]

Hello everyone

I got a faulty mechanical fuel gauge
The wire is cut unfortunately

Does any one know the exact length of the original wire
Is there separate wire to be replaced sold any where

I remember seeing a german site that published photos of repairing the gauge but can't find it anymore

[glutamodo]

I have posted a lot about the stock mechanical fuel gauges in the past but I never went a whole lot into the mechanical gauge head units, and for a reason. Years ago now, I took one apart, taking some photos, still have them, intending to talk about this. But I was dealing with a MAGURA gauge I bought NOS and was still in pristine condition. That's a lot different than 60 years of sun beating down on it. I've stripped those down too.

I have never seen ANY parts for Magura or VDO stock mechanical fuel gauges for sale. (other than the bulbholder but that's the same as the speedometer)

I was never able to find a way to remove the needle. I think it's riveted on. And it looks like a brass hollow rivet so if you drill it out, then there won't be anything left to re-secure it. This is important because you can get the faceplate off around the needle, barely.... but that word "barely" is important. The needles on these are often very brittle and break very easily. I have had that happen on typical used gauges. I remember one time I glued a plastic toothpick or something like that in place, didn't look very good though.

Anyway that's just about getting the faceplate out of the way to access to the cable.

But then there is the cable... the ball ends are crimped on, and are part of the cable assembly and the cable sheath is peened into the head unit housing. So it's is also not intended to be worked on or replaced.

I had a hell of a time getting my NOS unit back together with the needle attached, so much so that I think the factory assembly process was a one-way street.

Generally, my opinion is this: These gauge units are usually easy to find good-used and I'd just do that.

I never did try to get a length measurement of the cable length though
_________________
Andy T.

"What is Glutamodo, Horror of Toyko, besides total, fiendish, quality-a-you brain!"

[Bub]

The actual 'length' of the cable isn't terribly important- it just needs to reach from the gauge to the sender.
What IS important is that the sheath and cable are the proper 'respective' lengths so that the arm can pull the cable far enough when the cable is snug in the little sender mount. The gauges come apart very easy, I wouldn't disassemble it farther than needed.
But I've had them apart and the cable itself is easy to remove. You can use a drop of solder on each end of the cable to make the 'stops' ; or get a bicycle brake cable kit, it'll come with stops you can crimp onto the end.
_________________

[MostafaShams]

I found The Repair Guide For it

Link


I will try to use Ordinary Bike Brakes wire and see will it fit
as i can't find any separate wire sold online

[Schnitzelfuss]

Will .078” diameter work?
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/stainlesssteel78.php?clickkey=7274

[Schnitzelfuss]

They also sell a .064” cable.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/rotaxchokewire.php?clickkey=143749

[MostafaShams]

I think it is not about the wire diameter
It is about the size of the metal ball at the end
Any wire within a sheeth will work i guess

I have tried getting a gas wire for a motorcycle but it has larger end
And also very long and has a ball on one end only

I guess u will try to measure the length needed and cut the wire
I will try to sand the end to see if it fits , or i may join the cables with a joining bolt so i dont need to disassemble the guage it self

[Schnitzelfuss]

Good to know! Purchase the stop sleeve(s) in the size you need, or if the smallest you can find is too big, grind and/or file to fit, crimp on your cable. If crimping won’t work, use a dab of JB Weld epoxy to secure the stop(s) to the cable.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/wire-rope-stops/wire-rope-stops-not-for-lifting/

[kvasilak]

you can make new ends easily, just need a soldering gun, or a map gas torch and some solder.

drill a hole the size of the ball you want in a piece of wood, cut a slot for the cable and melt some solder into it, yes uses flux.

Then file to the final shape.
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