Questions about Fuel tank options for 1972

[poundman]

I am faced with replacing my 1972 fuel tank. It is way beyond repair. My questions and dilemma.

This tank is unique for 72 and part of 73.

My options are:

1. Retro fit 68-71 tank (new or used).
2. Buy used 72 tank (I have found no new tanks)
3. Retro fit a 73-74 (new or used).

My big question is, are the barrel type sending units better than the float style that started in 73? That might sway my decision. Why did they switch?

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[SGKent]

having owned both sender types (1971 & 1977), they are both unreliable compared to most cars today. To my knowledge, it is impossible to get an accurate late sender reproduction that will work without some kind of electronic interface. I recently had a spare NOS late VDO one on the workbench with a NOS late gauge, and a late NOS voltage regulator, along with a regulated power supply set up to 13.8V. While I could adjust the sender so that it worked full sweep from empty to full, it will not agree with the marks. The issue being for me that if I was relying on it then each time I tank up on a trip I have less range. My MDX has almost a 500 mile range. The bus is about 250 miles. Shorten it by leaving a lot of gas in the tank, and one is making more stops than needed and losing time on a long trip. On the flip side, there is less chance of running out, but it is stressful looking at a gauge reading low when the next station is 100 miles away. That is especially true in the west on less congested highways. I never had that issue with the 1971, and in 750,000 miles (and about 5 or 6 senders) only ran out of gas once.
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[poundman]

[SGKent]

[CTSkim]

I just went thru this a few years ago, what I ended up doing was to cut the threaded fuel outlet and the sender hole out of my 72 tank with a 2 or 3" hole saw.... I used a wood dowel chucked up in the hole saw to center myself.... I took said pieces and the new unused 73 up tank and had a buddy cut and tig weld them into the new tank...

the early 68-71 tank didn't come close to fitting in my 72 so I don't believe that is an option and as SGKent said you would need a new gauge at the dash if you go with the later sender....


I did repair my sender as there was some corroded connections. But I believe if you dig deep here there was a post about that as well as what wire to purchase if the thin wire is gone in your sender
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Project 67 Beetle
72 Sierra Yellow Westy
82 Tin Top Vanagon

[wagen19]

[poundman]

Thanks Wagen19. It does appear that in EU there are exact replica tanks, however in the US it appears most replacements are hybrid models that will also fit for 73-74 with the float type sender. CIP1 seems to be the very close replica., they use the part number 211-201-075-H but description says it is for 68-71

I will check out the links in more detail
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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[SGKent]

[poundman]

Frustrating: CIP1 lists has listed

VWC-211-201-075-H listed as 68-71 but it looks exactly like the 72-73 tank. That is the wrong part number for 68-71.
https://www2.cip1.com/vwc-211-201-075-h/

C24-211-201-075-H - listed as 73-79, but again that is the wrong part number. That one looks like it has 3 vents on top but sender might be screw on type. But it does mention threaded output.
https://www2.cip1.com/c24-211-201-075-h/

I have asked them to send me pictures of the actual part VWC-211-201-075-H. I am pretty sure something wrong on this listing, I assume it is 72-73 part based on the pictures. Let's see.
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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[SGKent]

BusDaddy gave you the solution if you want to use the 1968-71 tank. I also sent you links to a 1972 tank. You can also check with TheBusCo and BustedBus for an original 1972 tank. Nothing else to add here, other than you cannot change the sender type unless you change the gauge type too. It is more than just the mounting, they work on completely different technologies and resistances.
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[poundman]

[SGKent]

[wagen19]

[poundman]

I finally order a used tank from Bustedbus. CIP1 would never send me pictures to confirm if there part was correct, even though I told them description and part number did not match.
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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[mikedjames]

I recently purchased a later style lever sender from a supplier who sells the BBT sender unit and it has what looks like a correctly constructed resistor track for the later style hot wire gauge.

I do not like a gauge that reads full for 10 miles, drops rapidly to 1/4 full and is on the warning red section for about 110 miles ..


Although it is not an "open plan" sender you can see inside :


looking inside the sender .

box

It cost £40 + shipping over here in the UK from Alan Schofields.

As I have a fuel sender hatch on my tank, I will try and swap it this weekend after I have taken my bus on a 60 mile trip so the tank will not be too full.
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