Fuel line leak at #2

[Raescafe]

1978 VW FI - uncovered a squirting leak at #2 injector. Am I missing a hose clamp at the injector? To replace the piece of hose, does the green clip connected to the injector pop off easy? Thanks in advance.

[busdaddy]

[Raescafe]

Thanks for the quick reply busdaddy! Can you share the method to remove the injector? I’m somewhat of a novice mechanic but love to tackle small repairs like this. Thankfully the leak was discovered in the driveway. I store the car all winter and start it up monthly and this time I noticed a drip. Appreciate your wellness to share your expertise. Lastly, any recommendations on a parts source for what you referenced with injector seals. Thanks.

[busdaddy]

Germansupply.com, busdepot.com, or most other VW centric suppliers, Germansupply offers a seal and fuel line kit.
The injectors are held down with a single 6mm nut, you'll need a 10mm wrench to loosen it, don't drop the nut, or the flat washer that should be under it. Careful when reassembling too, those studs break off if you exceed 7 foot pounds.

Pictures of parts and thier names as well as other stuff here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_fi_11_1974.php
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[airschooled]

Yes, get all new line and proper smooth FI clamps. Your bug has absolutely told you it wishes to live another day, lucky you!

I have sausage fingers, and find that 50-year-old injectors can sometimes require cleaning… For the cost of shipping the injectors to cleaning/calibration, plus new seals and all the bloody knuckles that come with those damn mounting clamps/bolts/hoses, this is a nice solution for beetles and Vanagons:

https://injector-rehab.com/product/vw-beetle-super...-included/

I think you need to add the $60 for the 90° fittings on a bug, which is a bummer but still worth it in my fat-fingered opinion. There's nothing wrong with having the old injectors cleaned/calibrated instead, it's just a rare moment where I'll splurge for aftermarket bling to make my body happier.

https://injector-rehab.com/product/hose-end-injector-cleaning-and-flow-testing-copy/

And at the end of the day, the car will "run fine" with the old injectors as-is, with all new rubber, but how good do you want it to be?

Robbie
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[Raescafe]

Thanks for all the advice and links Robbie. I’ll dig in a bit more.

[busdaddy]

I keep forgetting about those IR kits, all new modern stuff and fewer places to leak, all for only a few bucks more than a cleaning and some hose.
If you don't care about museum correctness it's the way to go for a daily driver.
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[airschooled]

They’re brilliant on bug and Vanagons. If someone paid a shop to install them vs. regular injectors/hose, the time saved not cutting short fuel hoses and wrangling things into place would probably save money overall in labor costs. (Avoid the bus versions until they redesign it to avoid smashing the tin and blocking the intake manifold nuts.)
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[VW_Jimbo]

The hoses at the injectors are no big deal to replace. Just be sure to buy hose rated for the fuel you use (Ethanol or ?), the running pressure of the system plus 100%, and use band clamps. Crimp band are better but you have to have the correct crumpets, and those are cost prohibiting!

So, get you fuel injector assembly out of the car. Then take a fresh (read that as NEW) razor blade and slice the hose along the length about an inch. Then pry it off of the metal fittings with a small screwdriver or your fingers, which ever does the least damage to the part or your hand, up to you!

You should then be left with four injectors, all of them with their pigtail fuel line crimped on. Like this one.

You then take a hacksaw blade and cut the brass or steel crimp sleeve on an angle on two spots, 180 degrees from one another.

Once cut, pry both segments of the crip sleeve back a little bit. Like these ones.

Once opened up, the hose can be twisted (no pulling during the twisting). Once able to be twisted, lightly tug on the hose. It might come off, it may not, most likely NOT. So, grab your razor knife and gently cut the hose down the length of the hose about an inch. Use multiple passes, making sure you do not cut the injector nipples. Once cut, pull the hose away from the nipple and now you have a free injector.

Add good hose rated for fuel injection and a good quality band clamps.

Be sure to not introduce any debris into the fuel nipple and be careful of the chimney end of the injector. Also while they are out, inspect the terminals for corrosion and clean them up. Here is an example of a terminal that was oxidized and not firing. Cleaned it and it worked great!

Should probably look something like this when you get it all done.

Good luck and be careful! If you are in doubt at any point you should seek the help of a professional.
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[Raescafe]

Thanks for all the visuals. I might need the help of a pro. Thankfully I’ve got a shop nearby.

[jhicken]

...and don't forget to only use the proper fuel injection hose clamps. Those worm gear clamps damage the hoses which will eventually cause them to leak.

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[Raescafe]

Ok a follow up to this project that I have yet to tackle. My local VW shop is booked until mid-July. So hence my eagerness to get back on the road. In have the Bentley manual to follow along. It references removing the 10 mm bolt that holds the retainer plate. Does that bolt and retainer plate simply hold the injector in place? Will the bolt and plate come fully out or loosen enough for the injector to pop out. Once removed does the injector pull right out with a little pulling pressure. Lastly, do you recommend removing the plug wire to #2 for more room the navigate the removal. Thanks for the advice in advance.

[busdaddy]

Plug wire is up to you, if it makes access easier do it.
The injectors are retained by a nut, once it's off the short stud sticking out of the manifold the retainer plate and injector can be pulled out of the manifold, the plate stays on the injector (don't forget to put it on before installing the new hose). The injector may be stuck in the rubber seal in the manifold, some pulling and twisting should get it loose.
Don't drop the injector or ding it's tip, especially if the little plastic cap is missing from it's end.

Got some new rubber base seals as well as the retainer rings?, old seals always leak, especially after being disturbed.
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[Raescafe]

Thanks for the info. Trust jbugs for rubber seals?

[busdaddy]

Stuff like that pretty much all comes from the same source, it's as good a place as any to buy them from.
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[Raescafe]

Successfully removed the injector and removed the leaky fuel line. That old line was a bear to remove too. Next I’ll get the rubber seals, correct clamps and already have fuel line from another small repair. Any tips for getting injectors lined up and tightening the 10 mm nut? That was a chore removing. Tight fit for my hands. Feeling good about my progress. Thanks for all the help here.

[busdaddy]

Sounds good!

No real tips I can think of aside from have a magnet on a stick handy so you can retrieve the nut when you drop it. And if the plug wire is removed stuff a rag in the hole, if you don't you know exactly where the nut will fall.
And use a short wrench or hold it close to the root so you don't overtorque the nut and snap it off, doing that makes an easy job turn nasty in a hurry.

Gonna do #1 while you are in there?, how about the two on the other side?, if that line failed the rest can't be far behind.
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[Raescafe]

Good idea on #1 while I’m in there. I’ll probably do. Makes sense. Thanks.

Oh, one more question. Is there just one lower seal and upper seal per injector? I want to make sure I’m not missing something.

[Raescafe]

Update — successfully pulled injector 1 to service fuel lines as well ordered seals and waiting on shipment. Found a local shop that cleans and services injectors. That’s all they do. $20 per injector.

Here is a link to the site if anyone is interested.

https://www.injectorexperts.com

Goal is to put it all back together next week.

[bsairhead]

You can buy a cleaner kit for half that amount plus spray cleaner and do it yourself.