fuse block identification

[cutter57]

Hi. I am working on a 1975 VW Riviera Camper. I am trying to do some electrical tasks - new stereo, electric windshield washer and 12V outlets - and my fuse block does not look like ones I have seen sold for my bus. Also, the fuses are not what I'd expect after looking at the wiring diagram and fuse layout in the archives or ratwell's site. I hope the pics help. Any help is appreciated. ( The stereo that was in the bus was not connected to any power wire when I bought the bus.)

thanks in advance
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the enemy of good is better.

[busdaddy]

Looks like a 75 fuse box to me, aside from the bonus red fuses and the added inline fuse holders in front. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bus_1975.jpg
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[sjbartnik]

Ugh. Wire nuts.

[cutter57]

Thanks, busdaddy, for the help. I do not know what the added inline fuses are for. I plan to trace the wiring. I suspect some lead to dead ends. I also do not know why the fuse sizes are not stock. I want to look at my fuse block's connections, so I have to pull it away from its wall. I see 2 recessed holes. Are the mounting screws in them?

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the enemy of good is better.

[busdaddy]

Yes, there should be a phillips head screw down in each of those.

Disconnect your battery first
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[cutter57]

Thanks again. Battery already disconnected.

I am now reading other posts, trying to see which of the fuses in my 75 are unswitched (always on) and switched (only on when ignition is on). So far, it looks (from my wiring diagram) that fuses #7, #8 and #9 are unswitched and #10, #11 and #12 are switched.

I am a little curious as to why my fuse #10 only has an 8 amp fuse, instead of the expected 16 amp fuse...and why #2, #5 and #11 have 16 amp fuses instead of 8 amp fuses. I suspect a PO may have added things to their circuits and feared blowing the 8 amp fuses...and maybe downgraded #10 since there is no wire going to my rear window defogger switch.

My ultimate goal is to put in a new stereo (no amps, etc) using fuse#10 or #11 for switched power and #7 for memory, a triple 12V outlet for phone charging using #9, and an electric windshield washer pump using #11 or #12.

I think I am going to have to pull the fuse block and trace some of these wires to understand what is going on. Will definitely need my multimeter. Unfortunately, it will have to wait until Monday or later as I am working this weekend.
_________________
the enemy of good is better.

[busdaddy]

Don't go thinking your PO was using any science when sticking fuses in there, 9X out of 10 it was the most convenient one available, at least you don't have any blue ones or cigarette paper in there

Here's the way it's supposed to be, #10 is on the X terminal of the ignition switch and is cut out when starting, good for switched accessory items.

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[cutter57]

Thanks. I have seen that fuse block diagram. It differs slightly from the one at ratwell's site, and the wiring diagram in the archive's corresponds better with ratwell's (just minor differences).

Thanks for the advice on #10. Looks like the choice for my stereo, and maybe even my windshield washer pump.

I am sure I will be back for more advice once I get more into the wiring this week.
_________________
the enemy of good is better.

[cutter57]

I am back again concerning my fuse block. I found 4 or 5 wires that went nowhere, including 2 that had inline fuses. Interestingly, I have 2 wires coming from my relay board attached to the fuse block, with no relay under them (see photo). One of the wires goes into my steering column, and the other dead ends several inches away from the board. Any idea what these might have been for? Thanks in advance.

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the enemy of good is better.

[busdaddy]

Door buzzer.
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[Tcash]

You have to many Red 16 amp fuses. That is asking for trouble.

Note: #s 9&10 are the only two red 16 amp fuses.

Good Luck
Tcash

Wiring diagrams

[cutter57]

Busdaddy, thanks. Now I can stop wondering.

Tcash, thanks for the heads up.

I am already in the process of cleaning the wiring up. I have already made changes (the in-line fuses seen in my prior pics are gone - they led nowhere)), but I am keeping a 16-amp fuse in #7. There was nothing on it at all, and I am now using it for the constant supply for my stereo and my triple 12V outlets. both have heavier wire (16 ga. for the stereo and 14 ga. for the outlets). I am also thinking of wiring my cigarette lighter to that fuse.

I have converted my windshield washer to electric, modifying my steering column switch to activate a mini-switch when I use the windshield wiper arm. I imagine I can connect it's motor to an 8-amp fuse.

If anyone has advice on my choice of fuses, especially corrections, I'd like to hear it.

Thanx.
_________________
the enemy of good is better.

[Tcash]

It just depends on what you are going to run on the three outlets. Small inverter phone charger. Anything larger than that, say a fridge, a larger inverter or blender. You may want to think about running another circuit from the battery.

Good Luck
Tcash

[busdaddy]

X2, that wire from the starter terminal is busy enough already, run a separate 10-12 ga wire to a small auxiliary fuse block and power your toys from that (circuit breaker or fusible link near the battery end please).

That striped key buzzer wire should have power whenever the key is in the ignition even if it's turned off, that's very handy for the stereo so you don't fry your points leaving the key turned on.

X2 on the red fuses, most have to go.
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[cutter57]

Thanks again Tcash and Busdaddy.

My triple 12V outlet will only be used for charging cell phones, and the cigarette lighter also for charging cell phones and lighting an occasional cigarette. The only other thing that will be on fuse #7 is the constant power (memory) for my stereo (no amps or subwoofer, just standard stuff).

That being said, would it be okay to go back to an 8 amp fuse on #7?
I am not sure how much current will flow if someone uses the lighter for a cigarette while phones are charging.

The only other inappropriate 16-amp fuse left is on #11. It should not need 16 amps, unless a PO drastically rewired things. I am going to put an 8 amp fuse in its place before re-connecting my battery, and see if everything works.

I did get rid of a fair number of useless wires coming off the fuse block.

Thanks for all the help.
_________________
the enemy of good is better.

[akscooter]

I had the same issues with my 75 fuse block, it was screwed up.... you nneed to get very intimate with the wiring diagram... my guess is that it was fuel injection and now isn't.... po or a shop did a little bypassing.... as they did in mine....
_________________
1975 campmobile
1949 Ply Special Deluxe
1991 Custom 1200 HD Sportster XLH

[cutter57]

akscooter, thanks...and you are right about the motor change.

When I bought the bus almost 3 years ago, I barely got it home before the motor made a loud knocking sound....a local air-cooled vw mechanic I trust and have used for years told me the motor needed a complete rebuild. Instead, I had him put in a new 1640 dual port with a single carb. I never looked at the fuse block before then.

I have been going over the wiring diagram...even had it printed up for use when at the bus. It has helped, but I do not understand the color coding of the various wires in the diagram. So far, the wiring pretty much seems stock, with the exception of the dead-end wires with in-line fuses that I removed.

My emergency flasher was not even in the dash. It was hanging, still fully connected, behind the dash and a useless toggle switch occupied its position. The flasher's knob had been broken off its stem. I found a replacement knob and stem, got a new emergency flasher switch and now have it back in the dash.

I have other issues/questions that I will be posting in this forum, as I am trying to get the bus back on the road. I parked it shortly after getting the new motor in 2012, sent the seats and door panels to an upholsterer for custom upholstery my wife wanted (it is her bus). I gutted the bus and painted the interior with Master Series for rust inhibiton, put 2 coats of paint over that....and then let the bus sit for 18 mos.
_________________
the enemy of good is better.

[akscooter]

When I got my bus, it was sitting in a back lot and a stereo the PO had put in got stolen and in the course of yanking it out they messed up the wiring, fuse box hanging down, wires everywhere.... it took a while to go over it, but what really helped me was to blow the wiring diagram up to the same size as your front window of the bus, at kinkos or a large format copy shop put the pdf on a jump drive and have them enlarge it.... LOL.... really I am not kidding.... tape it to the window so you can reference the wire diagram and actually see the colors on the wiring diagram..... then proceed to diagnose and chase the wires... this helped me out alot, you can use a dry erase marker on the window to mark on it and erase as needed.....
_________________
1975 campmobile
1949 Ply Special Deluxe
1991 Custom 1200 HD Sportster XLH

[cutter57]

akscooter, great idea on the wiring diagram. I did print mine up, then cut it and taped it together to make one complete diagram. I take it to my bus each time I work on it. What is the significance of the color coding? Is that supposed to show the colors of the actual wires?
_________________
the enemy of good is better.

[akscooter]

it helped to trace the wires out... and keep track of the wires I had already gone through.... blowing it up allowed my bad eyes to see the colored wires better and read the finer print...
_________________
1975 campmobile
1949 Ply Special Deluxe
1991 Custom 1200 HD Sportster XLH