95 EVC pop-up canvas replacement - different method

[rckolson]

I used a small hand held cordless screwdriver for all the screws. Do find the correct size bit. My van has slightly larger screws in the top vs those in the metal of the van roof on the bottom.

I started the install by loosely attaching the trim pieces with 4 screws each. My 95 EVC has 4 U shaped trim pieces - 2 in front, 1 top and 1 bottom and 2 in the rear, top and bottom. Having labeled these during removal, I reattached them using 4 screws each - 1 near each end (1 away from the end) and 1 each just outside the corners. Each screw was only in far enough to hold the trim and let it hang loosely. I them fed the new canvas over the pop-up starting in the back with the top part way open, just push it over and around the back letting it go under the top in the back. Then push it towards the front on each side, one at a time until it is all the way to the front, walking around the back from one side to the other. I had marked the center of the back and the front and now I pushed the canvas between the trim and the top starting at the front with the center mark in the center. I pushed and pulled it under the rail to the loose screw at each corner and pulled it around the screw so there was a little loop around the outside of each screw. I tightened the screws as necessary, just enough to hold the canvas in place. I went around the front, upper trim in this manner. Then I did the same at the rear top and then the rear bottom, followed by the front bottom. I did have the top all the way open with a stool on the inside for some of this work.

I now had the entire canvas loosely fitted with no holes in it yet. This let me adjust the alignment and fit before punching holes with screws. It also allowed me to tighten the draw strings to some degree which helped tighten the fit. I did this by laying on the upper bunk and pulling the string fairly firmly in it's direction and at the same time pushing on the cord at the corner in the back where the cord was tightening. You can feel it pull the cord from the front. Be careful, just tighten gently, you don't want to dislodge or bend anything. Now I was able to gauge how much slack I had at the top and bottom all the way around and therefore how much I wanted the inside edge of the canvas to come under the trim all the way around.

I then started at the top rear center aligning the canvas between the trim and the top with the amount of slack on the inside that would leave the amount I wanted for the bottom rail. Which was basically to take up the slack and have the bottom edge cord be just inside the trim. My trim did not have a hole in the exact center of the to rear. There were 2 near the center. I started there and used a prick tool to punch a hole through the trim hole, the canvas and into the hole in the top. A screw was then snugged down in the hole. Next I removed the top rear screws I had loosely fitted and pulled the canvas between the trim and the top to the desired placement, all the while making sure everything was still aligned and not bunched or stretched. Punch the hole screw the screw - PTHSTS, there's a lot of this! Next was the other corner where the loose screw was. Next I went toward the front on the top rails where the other 2 lose screws were and repeated PTHSTS. Again, check the alignment and for tightness or bunching anywhere - adjust if necessary. I'm my case I didn't need much adjustment going around the top or bottom - it was all going to be how much slack to pull in under the trim. I kept it consistent along the top for the most part, observing how much would be available/required along the bottom. There may be a little more along the back than the sides and front. I had already decided I was not concerned about how much the edge cord pulled in at the top or bottom as long as it looked right on the outside. IE. My concern was a good functional fit and minimal sagging.

I then proceeded in this manner to the top front, starting at a hole in the middle of the front and proceeding to the corners, then toward the back to the loose screw in the trail there on top. I now have I think 5 screws in the top front and 6 in the back that are through the canvas and snugged down. Again having carefully observed for to much slack front to back and fit along the bottom rail - which the canvas is still fitted under the trim and going around the screws holding it without going through it. At this point I believe I again checked the tightness of the top cord and pulled a slight amount of slack out.

Next I followed this process to secure the canvas along the bottom front. Carefully pulling the canvas under the rail where the screws holding it were and checking the fit EVERYWHERE 3 times before PTHSTS - starting in the middle and then toward the corners. After ensuring the bottom cord was tightened to my satisfaction, I put in all the screws in the bottom front as I moved out from the center - going from one side then the other. I had done some cleanup and recalking on my corners in the front and I carefully tightened the trim down here so the trim would follow the contour. Next I worked down each side toward the back putting in most of the screws.

After ensuring I liked the fit down the sides, I then secured the rear bottom under the rail starting in the middle and PTHSTS only where the screws holding the trim were -as always checking the fit. Then I secured the remaining screws in the rear top, at the back and then the sides. All that remained were the missing bottom screws, which much like the top, the canvas was pretty much already where it needed to be, and any other missing screws.

There was very little adjustment from the original, holeless, fitting explaining in the beginning. From that point on I felt confident it the fit and found only a little up and down for alignment necessary. That's it other than sealing the outside bottom edge to the van with silicone adhesive.
It is a different way then I had seen. I hope this is helpful.

[mikemtnbike]

Looks great. How does the yellow "feel" from the inside?
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[rckolson]

"Feel", hmmm.. it feels good is my first thought. I like the brightness, that's why I chose it. I was hoping the brighter color would be cooler, but I can't really say as I have no comparison. My last camper was a 1990 I bought new and had for 8 years. It has a gray canvas and I remember it getting warm. They probably do no matter what color when it sunny and warm outside.
If there is something more specific your looking for, let me know.

[mikemtnbike]

I used to wear yellow tinted sunglasses for cycling in mixed lighting conditions- before good photochromic lenses were available affordably. They worked and id brighten some things up when needed, but it made everything kind of look like it was urban-smoggy at other times.

So, does the yellow canvas "tint" the interior of the van or is it just brighter?

That's how I guess I'd phrase my question more specifically- I like the look quite a bit.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[camcrobe]

Thanks. Your method to pin the tent with screws before punching holes and screwing though the fabric worked very well. The absolute worse part was removing the silicone. There was a lot of cursing and a bit of blood. Needed my wife (much smaller and flexible than I) for the back part. Small rechargeable screwdriver with rotating handle was crucial. Perhaps 10 hrs total, but we are quite pleased with how it turned out.

Should mention: the canvas is from GoWesty (was on sale, but still expensive) - I think it was the only one that had access (unzip the screen) to the luggage rack.

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1995 EuroVan Camper