Car Craft Kit 1956cc Cruiser Style Motor

[BoneStorm-zZ]

I've been looking at the Car Craft "Super Deluxe Big Motor Complete Longblock" Kit.

What I want is a motor that can cruise up and down California and dare I say across the United States.

I have a 71' Std Beetle and plan to use this Kit Motor with a stock trans (AH code) until I can save my own funds for a Benco rebuilt trans (3.8 in the near future.

My questions:

With 40x35 heads, 76mm Crank, 90.5 Pistons, (the kit),

What Cam can I use to have a good low/mid end, while still being able to take advantage of highway speeds and not have to worry about hills/mountain roads?

A cam that allows me to utilize the kit to its potential. 2-5k powerband.

1) My bet is on the W110 they supply. Or should I find something else? How can I figure out what cam works well for me?

Web119 vs Web163?? Similair cams?? 1.1? 1.25?? How do I make use of the specs on cams for a cruising motor that does well in city traffic? ITS KEEPING ME AWAKE AT NIGHT.

2) is there any thing I should be weary of in this Kit for my needs?

3) Is it possible to have a good idle/peppy driver that stays cool with what's in this Kit?

And unfortunately, after hours every morning reading through forum posts and not finding good answers, I'd like to ask for help. PLEASE.

I don't need high end RPM, if I wanted to impress people, I'd just put a stinger on for the weekend and go "nuts". People at in-n-out wouldn't know the difference or probably care.

I want this engine to last a long time.

Everything else:

Some 40IDFs, 91 octane fuel, 8.5:1 CR, full flow with fan, dizzy (idk yet, I'll keep researching), A pistons, 5.4 rods (I Beam), 1.5quart sump, 1.5" merged exhaust, doghouse old school style (for linkage clearance), squaretop fuel pump (Sparxwerks), ignition( I'll figure it out), 60amp alternator (for tunes eventually).

Any recommendations/criticisms are welcome. Im new to bugs but damn it do I love these things. Thank-you!

-Nate

[jpaull]

I would look at any of the cams designed to run with larger ratio rockers. Moving the adjuster to the pushrod side has some nice reliability advantages. Not having 90% of the lift coming from the cam itself is a better way to go.

For example:
https://www.cbperformance.com/category-s/194.htm
_________________
[email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg

Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth.

[Glenn]

Not knowing the quality of parts supplied in that kit, I would recommend you look at the CB Builder's Choice kit. I've built a few of them and the 2017 is a nice small stroker that has plenty of power and longevity.

https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1182.htm

You can discuss the cam with the staff there and they can swap out a different one to fit your needs.

How it comes

Long block

_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי

[Alstrup]

I never liked those builder kits. They all have something you don´t want.
IF it has to be a kit I agree on the CB kits to be the best, by far actually.

Now, youre new to ACVW. I am fully aware that there is joy in building yourself. but you might want to consider having the longblock built by someone who knows what he´s doing and are not just slapping parts together. THere are so many pitfalls for a beginner that the fee for getting a long block built can be money very well spent.
_________________
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[BoneStorm-zZ]

[BoneStorm-zZ]

[BoneStorm-zZ]

[Glenn]

[Brian_e]

The CarCraft kit will be mostly all AA parts.
The heads will most likely be 40x35 aa500. They will need work to be even equivalent to decent stock valve heads. They are just stock port castings with big valves tossed in. The heads will be the limiting factor of the whole thing.

Brian
_________________
So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok

Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts

[BoneStorm-zZ]

[Brian_e]

The only heads that you can get off the shelf that are ready to rock and great are Tims, or CNC CB heads. Most all the others still need at least blending work, full port work, or they are way too big.

Remember, the power is in the heads. Correctly sized, and prepped heads will make a huge difference on most any engine.

Brian
_________________
So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok

Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts

[BoneStorm-zZ]

[74 Thing]

You cannot go wrong with Steve or Greg Tims doing your heads. They also will do complete engines, and offer engine kits for you to build with their hand ported heads.

https://www.performanceworkshop.net/

[modok]

The way I tend to see it......
These days, since good heads and cheap cranks currently exist
Is if you want to use "stock size" intake and exhaust systems then go with 74x90.5 which is 1904cc MAX
Lightly ported or Super stock heads with 37x32 valves and web 218 cam if you really want to do it right.
It won't be impressive on paper but will go together easy, no major porting or case clearance needed, just some cylinder shims, and don't worry it will still fit in the car just fine.
40idfs or 36idfs or 36 drla or maybe 40drla
1 3/8, or longer tube 1 1/2 exhaust system
Can drive like stock, won't need a leg killing clutch to hold it.


If you want to step up to 40x35.5 big valve heads and larger carbs and larger exhaust systems then go 78 stroke and thickwall 92 cylinders AT LEAST
So you can make more full use of the larger carbs and exhaust system and heads, that all go together.
It's just it all has to work together to work. You make one thing bigger, then everything else needs to be bigger too to match.


unless you want to build an engine with a RPM range that is a lot higher or lower than usual, then things can be a lot more varied and make sense.
But usually these engines spend the majority of time between 2600 and 3700 rpm, that's just how they are geared and what they are designed for.

[BoneStorm-zZ]

[BoneStorm-zZ]

[modok]

HAHA! Glad you can get a kick out of it.
I learned a few things since then, but just a little
I miss ralf, brother from another mother in the Philippines, hope he's well

[modok]

far as throat VS valve size to venturi size, there is not one exact answer
but this was a suggestion from the superflow flowbench manual, which certainly would be a good guideline.

[yamaducci]

I used to be in your shoes maybe 40 years ago when all we had were magazine ads and articles to go on. I learned what is still true today is that kits can be a great start to the learning process because a lot of the guess work has been eliminated as part of the combo they are selling. The biggest difference is the quality of parts each vendor has access to put together the kit. As others have mentioned you may get all AA parts or all Empi parts, all SCAT or CB. You will get what you pay for. Don't forget that. Top down are SCAT, CB, EMPI then AA. The cams that come in any of the kits are matched to the heads and within your range of performance. CB by far has done the most part matching to come up with an easy assembly and a ballpark HP number if you use their kits parts as listed. It can't get any easier than that. Other vendors might put a package together but don't tell you what to expect from it like CB does.
I am currently working with vendors to get my engine/parts business up and running but I am not ready for customers yet or I would help you out with more kit specifics. I think the W110 is great. It's actually the most popular VW cam ever made. Oh and your comment about SCAT Rockers or shafts. I am not sure what you have heard but for the money they are probably the best .765" rockers out there. I use them in race engines int he desert where they get abused and look brand new when they come out.
_________________
-John Cox
My 2498 Turbo Re-Build Thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5578697#5578697

3rd Brake Light Safety Stars- I still have a couple with blue light left. Email me if interested.

[Brian_e]

You need to figure out what you want to pay for this thing first.
Then decide if you want a new case or send one out to be machined.

If its a new case, you might as well just build something big, cause it all fits just fine in a new machined aluminum case, and most all the parts are very similar in price.

If you are reusing your case, you are a little more limited.

Next you need to figure out if you want stock heater boxes, or ditch them and run a diesel heater, or nothing at all. Stock heater boxes will be the deciding factor on how big you can go.

After that, you need to decide on the RPM range you plan to use this engine in. That will help you decide on the heads and cam.

Last, what kind of driving are you planning to do? Hot rod around town, light to light, or jump on the freeway, and drive to Vegas from LA?

Brian
_________________
So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok

Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts