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Knocking after flywheel replacement
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Ross73
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2024 5:49 pm    Post subject: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Hey guys, i bet you have seen people asking this a million times. But i am at a complete loss, I replaced the flywheel on my 1835 with a lightened one as well as replaced the pushrod tubes due to them leaking! But i put it back in and it is knocking down my door like an angry neighbor. I shimmed the flywheel accordingly, i made sure everything was clean and tidy, i adjusted my valves and everything. Still knocking. I am wondering if its the fly wheel but before i go tearing the engine out for a 3rd time i just want some input from the community!

Thanks in advance

-Andrew
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2024 5:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Should be easy to know if it's the flywheel or rockers.
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oprn
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2024 5:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Grab the pulley with both hands and yank it back and forth as hard as you can. You are feeling for end play in the crankshaft/ flywheel main bearing. There should be very little to no perceivable end play. If it goes clunk... clunk... Shocked ... sorry bud!! The engine HAS to come back out...
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Ross73
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2024 6:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

She is tight! Its a fresh engine with 500 miles. Had to take it out for the push rod tubes i didnt seal good enough and thought a lightened flywheel would be nice while i was there…… obviously not
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Millionmph
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2024 6:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Check the pulley isnt smacking the tin behind it...
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2024 6:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

It's possible that the dowels are slightly long, and sitting proud of the flywheel surface. Then you tighten the gland nut against the dowels, but the flywheel is loose. Ask how I know Rolling Eyes
The thickness of the flywheel where the dowel holes are drilled is not consistent, so it happens.
I know you scrutinized it when you did the endplay, but you weren't looking for this. And in my case it wasn't obvious till it was spinning at 3k. It was just barely loose, but even a little bit of wiggle makes a hell of a racket at speed
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modok
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2024 6:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Knocking is a loose part slamming into another part.
So simple, yet so complex

Ideally what you should do is stop and FIX the problem just before the parts involved become unsalvageable.
Which is tricky to correctly predict, but, it is still the goal, and I still believe it is possible.
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2024 12:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

When you are looking for 'fixes" to things needing nothing - is exactly why this happens.

If you did the proper shimming should be like the flywheel never left. If you forgot to torque it - could also why it is prolly chewing something.

Hopefully you did not induce a fresh rebuild w/ this flywheel swap.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2024 12:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

I bet you left your 10mm in there Embarassed
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2025 11:28 am    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Well now that it has been almost a year later I have come to tell the reason! a piece of hard ass silicon got down the intake and was smacking between the piston and head. Learned my lesson about using silicon/RTV on a Volkswagen. Really made me smack my head against the wall.. But now its fixed and I have almost 5k miles on this build! Thanks for the responses guys.
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2025 12:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Before you tear it apart reach behind the shroud, grab the fan and make sure it's not loose
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2025 12:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Ross73 wrote:
Well now that it has been almost a year later I have come to tell the reason! a piece of hard ass silicon got down the intake and was smacking between the piston and head. Learned my lesson about using silicon/RTV on a Volkswagen. Really made me smack my head against the wall.. But now its fixed and I have almost 5k miles on this build! Thanks for the responses guys.


Glad you found it and it was simple. But.....Absolutely nothing wrong with silicone in a VW engine. It's how it's used.

The vast majority of people use it incorrectly. They goop it on to fill big gaps that should not be there.....or.....they start with too much, it gets squeezed out and not cleaned up. If there is a chance of squeezing out of a joint and you do not have access to both sides....you apply it differently. Thin layer. Brushed or rolled on or like in a transmission or engine housing, apply it only a few thousandth thick and not past the centerline of the from the outside or on the centerline but not near wither edge of the joint.

You plan for the "squeeze". Ray
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liquidrush
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2025 2:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

I know this isn't VW related but I was at a car show a couple years back and was checking out this sweet 57. When I got around to the engine there was blue silicone squishing out from every gasket on the thing. Carb base, valve covers, intake, water pump, tstat housing, fuel pump, oil pan, everywhere! It was absolutely horrible to look at and I can't believe someone thought that was good. I mean rtv has its used but man, that was the worst I've ever seen.
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modok
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2025 2:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Yeah, it does not look Profesional at all imo, I hate that.
For me the stigma is the orange silly cone.
But it is a very useful sealant.

If orange silicone in a bergman oring groove does turn out to be the best way to seal the case, nobody will ever try it anyway, due to what it reminds us of.
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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2025 3:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Blue silicone should be absolutely nowhere on a VW engine. Red silicone only and only at the cylinder bases.

That blue shit is the signature of a hack. Blue silicone "worms" have an uncanny knack of finding their way into the worst possible places such as oil galleries.


Finding a blob yo- yo'ing around inside a cylinder is a happy ending. Better I say than an 8mm nut bouncing around in there or the same silicon super ball clogging an oil passage.

.
.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2025 5:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Dusty1 wrote:
Blue silicone should be absolutely nowhere on a VW engine. Red silicone only and only at the cylinder bases.

That blue shit is the signature of a hack. Blue silicone "worms" have an uncanny knack of finding their way into the worst possible places such as oil galleries.


Finding a blob yo- yo'ing around inside a cylinder is a happy ending. Better I say than an 8mm nut bouncing around in there or the same silicon super ball clogging an oil passage.

.
.


"Red" silicone means nothing. Blue silicone means nothing. Laughing But I get your point!

The color has nothing to do with temperature range, oil resistance, durometer, adhesion, curing time, curing method, sensitivity to sulfur, total elongation at temperature etc. Etc. Etc.

All of that is in the TDS for each product. There are dozens of "blue" silicone. Some are world class. Some suck.

There are dozens of "red" silicones....some are superb. Some suck.

Many are fantastic.....but are the wrong durometer and solids content for the type of joints on vW cases and transmission cases. Wrong RTV selection is your fault....not the product.

If you are using RTV and you get it inside of your engine.....that's your fault for using it wrong.

If you are selecting your RTV or any kind of sealant simply by color.....you may as well be flipping a coin. You have a 50/50 chance of failure.

But..... Wink .....I do agree that the most commonly found thin-ass stringy blue silicones.....suck and should not be used on engines at all! Laughing Ray
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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2025 6:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
"Red" silicone means nothing. Blue silicone means nothing. Laughing But I get your point!


Fair enough. I'll qualify:

When I say "red" I mean red high temp Permatex in the Cheez- Whiz can.

Blue is for makin' bionic bait worms like the Sluggos fishermen use this time of year.

Or maybe for makin' worms like my old Mattel Creepy Crawlers set only without the heat. When I get cancer it won't be from workin' on cars for 50- plus years. It will be from the damn Creepy Crawlers fumes.

While we're at it I'm sure all the Testors model glue I wheezed did me no harm.

Did me no harm compared to a blue silicone worm on the loose inside your engine.

.
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2025 9:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Dusty1 wrote:
raygreenwood wrote:
"Red" silicone means nothing. Blue silicone means nothing. Laughing But I get your point!


Fair enough. I'll qualify:

When I say "red" I mean red high temp Permatex in the Cheez- Whiz can.

Blue is for makin' bionic bait worms like the Sluggos fishermen use this time of year.

Or maybe for makin' worms like my old Mattel Creepy Crawlers set only without the heat. When I get cancer it won't be from workin' on cars for 50- plus years. It will be from the damn Creepy Crawlers fumes.

While we're at it I'm sure all the Testors model glue I wheezed did me no harm.

Did me no harm compared to a blue silicone worm on the loose inside your engine.

.
.


Ah.....yes....we work on the same basic color scale. The "Permatex" scale!

Yep.....I am not really even sure what "Blue" Permatex RTV was really made for other than it's probably been around the longest (though it's not any cheaper).

The only Permatex RTV's (for the most part) that ai play with are the "Ultras".
Ultra black....medium durometer but highest oil resistance....500°F with ~450° constant
Ultra Gray......highest durometer and medium oil resistance....500°F with ~450° constant....highest torque
Ultra copper.....medium durometer. Medium oil resistance like the gray and 700°F intermittent with ~500°F constant.
Ultra red....~650°F....better with thermal cycling. Not as good as Ultra Gray for tight tolerance, thin gaskets.

Interesting toss up between red and gray. Ray
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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2025 12:51 am    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

Well Ray.....i think you forgot more about sealant than most ever know.
Why would you use ultra grey on a thin gasket anyway? There might be a reason the gasket is "thin", eh?

Remember the ultra grey has solid particles in it which space the joint apart, this prevents squeezing out all the sealant, which is good, but changes the fit of parts, which is sometimes not desirable.
It's not good or bad, just how it is and both have their place, but your method of getting a THIN film by rolling which you have preached about many years for the case, will not really work correctly with the grey silicone since it has solid particles in it.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...;start=140
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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2025 5:34 am    Post subject: Re: Knocking after flywheel replacement Reply with quote

The worst case of silicone abuse in my experience was my cousin's Rabbit. The PO had hit a rock with the oil pan, took it off and beat it back out, the siliconed the living be Jesus out of it and put the car up for sale. After a year of driving it my cousin brought it to me because it just was not running right.

On disassembly there were rivers of silicone running down the inside and across the bottom of the oil pan. The oil pickup screen was full of it and cast aluminum oil pump pick up was cracked at the top from the rock impact. I don't know how that engine got any oil at all! Maybe just the splash? For a whole year!

The valve train was a total write off, the cylinders scored badly as were the bearings. The only thing salvageable was the bare engine block.
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