Heat exchangers

[Alex6373]

Hi there
I am wondering what the best way to re attach the flanges to the heat exchangers ?.
Allso anyone have any info on how the were originally pressed together .

What about brazing them back together ?

Thanks

[busdaddy]

I'm not sure just what sort of savagery occured there, at the factory the flanges are slipped over the ends of the tubes and oven brazed into place in a jig fixture.

Sawing them off below the flange is going to make alignment impossible without a head to bolt them to, and welding that close to a brazed joint will surely contaminate the weld and make a bubbly poo speckled weld that's an embarrasment for even an amature.

Good luck!
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[Alex6373]

Who said anything about about sawing them off !!!!!
Thanks for the input!
Also your comments about being an amateur!

All welded and reinstalled
The factory brazing was not existing and exhaust was leaking out of the joints .

Thanks for your help Busdaddy !

[busdaddy]

Oh my, that must have been running super lean to melt the bronze out of the joints, wow!
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[Erik G]

those pushrod tubes though...
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[Alex6373]

Ya not pretty but thy work you guys are quite a bunch .

These days sourcing all these parts is difficult and expensive.
So until i know what i have upgrading will wait till later .

Push rod tubes are an easy change later !

I suggest you guys get away from your computers and actually do some work
Ha ha

[vamram]

[SGKent]

What Mark said. Over time the brazing burns away. It was a silver brazing material that came up in a couple threads in the bay forum. Used ones almost always leak. Carbon builds up and plugs the area, but the hotter the exhaust is, the sooner the brazing fails. The reason brazing was used is that welding will create a fracture line when they are heated and cooled. They were never designed to last 50 years like a set of stainless welded headers on a water cooled engine might. They were painted in the brazing solder and flux, tack welded on a jig and oven brazed.
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[oprn]

Brass/bronze is a "hot short" metal meaning that the hotter it gets the weaker it is. I cannot understand why anyone would use that on an exhaust system. That is a surefire recipe for weld failure!
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