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A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter.
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nextgen
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2025 6:51 pm    Post subject: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

Well I have a T-4 and it has the large screw on oil filter. If I rember it was because the stock T-1 filter was prone to leaks around the bolts and there is a danger if tightening the large center bolt that can snap and would require the engine to be removed. He said the t-4 filter was all you needed.

Naving leaks in that area I was wondering if any of you guys had any issues .
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2025 12:48 am    Post subject: Re: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

9 ft lbs on the oil strainer nut if you take it off. There is no need to take it off unless you suspect a problem. The T4 has a separate drain plug for changing oil. The nut in question goes onto the oil pickup. It is held in place by a bolt that goes from one side of the case to a threaded boss on the inside. Tightening it by hand, or going over 9 ft lbs will cause that cross bolt to bend and snap the aluminum boss inside the case. To repair requires a complete disassembly of the engine, cleaning and someone very skilled with tig/heliarc welding. My advise would be to leave that nut alone. Then repeat over and over until it is drilled into your head, 9 ft lbs. 9 ft lbs. 9 ft lbs. The engine is useless if you break it until repaired. It is a very expensive oops.

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Wreck
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2025 3:16 am    Post subject: Re: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

I remove it every oil change ,I like to check for shiny bits . I know its over kill but the service kits aren't expensive . I use a new service kit with gaskets and crush washer . Never had an issue but also understand how easy it is to stuff up.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2025 7:05 am    Post subject: Re: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

Wreck wrote:
I remove it every oil change ,I like to check for shiny bits . I know its over kill but the service kits aren't expensive . I use a new service kit with gaskets and crush washer . Never had an issue but also understand how easy it is to stuff up.



I agree. I do the same. Every oil change.

However, I do not need to replace the gaskets. The factory gasket kit from a Victor Reinz or Elring gasket set both have either the green or gray coated/sealed gaskets. These have polymer coated surfaces and VERY lomg life.

Take your strainer and clean both gasket areas very well with a fast evaporating solvent making sure you get all oil or sealant off.

Then take you two gasket rings and apply a super thin layer of the best oil resistant sealant you can that is RTV based.....TO ONE SIDE ONLY of each gasket ring.

Apply the top gasket and the bottom gasket with the sealant side against the strainer. Line everything up with the outside edges and squeeze lightly.

Then, clean all oil away from the steel lid and the ledge on the engine case (actually do this before you start) and with strainer snd gaskets stacked on the steel lid....the put the assembly with gaskets up into the hole and tighten the nut FINGER TIGHT ONLY.

Let this dry completely....4 -6 hours average.

Remove the nut, removes the lid and strainer and clean up any small strings of RTV/sealant that have escaped this sandwich.

You now have a gasketed sealed strainer assembly that can be removed many times without coming apart or leaking. With oul changes every 3k miles I typically get about 15 oil changes before the gasket outer faces start getting crappy. It never leaks a drop.....ever.

To be clear.....you are NOT gluing the gaskets to the lid or the case....just to the strainer assembly.

I keep a spare one all made up already in a zip lock and when it's finally time to redo the one in my engine, I just swap them out and let the old one soak in a container of carb cleaner or solvent and it comes clean easily.

The best oil proof Permatex ultra is the ultra black but copper works well. Or it you want it thinner and easier to apply use Permatex motoseal.

I will post pictures of mine later. Ray
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2025 1:16 pm    Post subject: Re: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

Here is what it looks like when the gaskets are adhered to the strainer.

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I would have to look in my log book but this probably has 30k miles on this gasket set or about 9 oil changes...no leaks.

Ray
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Wreck
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2025 2:21 pm    Post subject: Re: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

thats a good tip , thanks Ray .
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timvw7476
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2025 3:11 pm    Post subject: Re: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

It's a nut with flange plus delicate tubular crush washer underneath it.
That in turn tugs on a circular lug that is looped around a case pass-through bolt above it,, all that acts as the 'stay' to exert retaining force on the drain plate & filter screen.
The crush washer is what makes playing with that nut too dangerous for novices.
I did drop my strainer religiously for several years of oil changes & then gave up. There's no reason to do it unless it is a 'new to you' bus & you are doing deep inspection. The crush washer yields & deforms properly right at the threshold of 9 foot pounds torque. It feels similar to a stripping thread to the uninformed.
Scary stuff for a new operator to play with.
Buying a torque wrench calibrated for inch pounds settings is a good idea if you drop your screen regularly. The best tool I found was a Craftsman 3/8" breaker. Lets you sneak up on that crush washer collapse safely. Then a 3/4 foot pound more.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2025 4:28 pm    Post subject: Re: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

timvw7476 wrote:
It's a nut with flange plus delicate tubular crush washer underneath it.
That in turn tugs on a circular lug that is looped around a case pass-through bolt above it,, all that acts as the 'stay' to exert retaining force on the drain plate & filter screen.
The crush washer is what makes playing with that nut too dangerous for novices.
I did drop my strainer religiously for several years of oil changes & then gave up. There's no reason to do it unless it is a 'new to you' bus & you are doing deep inspection. The crush washer yields & deforms properly right at the threshold of 9 foot pounds torque. It feels similar to a stripping thread to the uninformed.
Scary stuff for a new operator to play with.
Buying a torque wrench calibrated for inch pounds settings is a good idea if you drop your screen regularly. The best tool I found was a Craftsman 3/8" breaker. Lets you sneak up on that crush washer collapse safely. Then a 3/4 foot pound more.


And/or.....if you have your engine out and are building it......you could do this mod....and get rid of all strain on the cross bolt and loop and add a lot of safety into it.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=645213&highlight=strainer

Yes.....if you grossly over torque after this mod.....like 20 ft lbs.....it WILL damage/bend the bell on the oil pickup but will never ever cause case damage again.

Ray


Last edited by raygreenwood on Wed Jun 11, 2025 9:44 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2025 5:35 pm    Post subject: Re: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

or you can just cut the filter open each oil change and see anything that is passing thru the system. Filter openers are really inexpensive these days. Not like 10 years ago when they cost a lot, and sawing made its own mess.

Get a Hazet oil drain pan; it has a lip on it the filter sits to drain. And a filter opener. Safer than messing with that strainer on a type 4.

$16 at Autohauz Az

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$17 at Amazon

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nextgen
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2025 6:25 pm    Post subject: Re: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

Years ago one T-4 guy showed me his engine and he had the entire area sealed. Itcould of been welded or for some other way JP Weld . When I asked him why he said, the T-4 had a rear spin on oil filter, the could cause serious problem...
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nextgen
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2025 6:27 pm    Post subject: Re: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

I am thinking about it.
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Rome
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2025 2:57 pm    Post subject: Re: A while back ROME said if you have a T-4 seal up the T-1 filter. Reply with quote

If the ROME in the title refers to me, it likely was not me who said that. I never worked on a type 4 engine and only have one in pieces for a future upright conversion project. Confused
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