Automatic trans leak 2.2 subie swap

[jday92591]

Hello I have a transmission leak on my 84 Vanagon with a 2.2 subaru engine. A little background, the engine and transmission were mated prior to install about 20,000 mile ago. I rebuilt the transmission with a rebuilt Torque converter just prior to the install. It was working great until the leak started around the bottom of the bell housing. I replaced the torque converter seal and it continued to leak. I then replaced the torque converter bushing as it was showing wear and was out of spec for the inside diameter. Put it back together and it still leaked. Took it apart for the third time and replaced the seal again. This time the initial test drive was positive after the same test drive route that i did the previous two times. Went to drop it off at my sons abouit 30 miles away and when I arrived it was leaking again!

The Torque converter does not apper to have any cracked welds. For the three attemps, I have dropped just the trans, not the engine and trans. Is there anywhere else it could be leaking from or does anyone have additional thought?
_________________
1984 Westfalia 1993 Ej22, Automatic, no power steering. Behr AC (currently not working) Mercedes 16” C class wheels with 215/60/R16 tires. Powerflex bushing throughout. 50 amp lithium aux battery with 100amp solar panel located in the luggage rack (removable mount).

[dart330]

I just went through a similar experience, swapping the torque converter solved the issue. The leaky rebuilt one I was sent wouldn't seal no matter what we tried.
_________________
Driving a 90 Carat since 2014

Previous Buses: 59 Westy, 60 Westy, 74 Bus, 82 Westy, 85 Westy, 87 Syncro
Checkout my Syncro Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JSWhLS7jLY

[jday92591]

[dart330]

[markswagen]

how many torque converters seals are in the torque converter right now.
l know there are some out there under the impression that two seals are necessary.
l had to change a seal, because someone else had decided two seals we necessary, l swapped out, and replaced the two seals, the previous monkey had fitted, with just one seal, and it has been fine since, the van owner was not overly impressed on paying to have the job done twice inside a week.
_________________
markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.

619 201 0310

[MarkWard]

I recall a thread where the member went to similar pains. Short story he found the torque converter was not bolting up centered. He tried all 3 positions to find the one with the least run out and I believe that cured it. VW intended for it to center on the nub in the flex plate. I think maybe the aftermarket flex plate has different tolerances. You will need a dial indicator to measure. It was pretty involved.

[jlrftype7]

Matt S., one of our Transmission Gurus, has offered his opinion on Torque Converter runout privately. Although we didn't take the extra step of using a dial indicator to measure our leaking TC issue, we were using a stock/NOS flexplate that had never been installed. Even moved the Flexplate from one engine to another as I did an engine swap about half way through the months of TC leakage for other reasons[ worn engine, oil consumption]
I tried, as above^^^,, speedi sleeve, new inner support bushing, several seals. Nothing worked, TC kept leaking.
Finally got a used complete transaxle, used the Final Drive and TC from that unit, with 1 new seal, and mated our existing Automatic section onto it. No more leak from TC. Exhausting, frustrating. The only consolation I had was all the work was done on service lifts at my places of work or a friends shop, so no yanking a drivetrain out in a driveway for me.
_________________
'68 Westy- my first VW and vehicle/Bus- long gone.- sold it to a traveling Swiss couple....
'67 Type 3 Fastback, my 2nd car- gone
'69 Semi-Auto Stick Shift Beetle-gone
2017 MINI Coopers, our current DDs
‘84 Tin Top - Hilga....Auto

[jday92591]

[jday92591]

[jlrftype7]

[jday92591]

[jlrftype7]

[jlrftype7]

Here's my 'newer' TC. Position the stem of your Dial Indicator behind the Starter Ring Gear Teeth and cooling Vanes that are next to them if you can. If the 'side' window/cutout is better than the top, use that instead. Ideally, you use a Magnetic Dial Indicator mount since the Final Drive Section is Cast Iron, but a bolted connection to something you can mount the Indicator on solidly, will work too. There are Visegrip mounts for Indicators too.

_________________
'68 Westy- my first VW and vehicle/Bus- long gone.- sold it to a traveling Swiss couple....
'67 Type 3 Fastback, my 2nd car- gone
'69 Semi-Auto Stick Shift Beetle-gone
2017 MINI Coopers, our current DDs
‘84 Tin Top - Hilga....Auto

[jday92591]

Thanks guys! It will be a few days, but I will check it out and post the results!
_________________
1984 Westfalia 1993 Ej22, Automatic, no power steering. Behr AC (currently not working) Mercedes 16” C class wheels with 215/60/R16 tires. Powerflex bushing throughout. 50 amp lithium aux battery with 100amp solar panel located in the luggage rack (removable mount).

[MarkWard]

I could be way off base, but I’d think you’d have the torque converter bolted to the flex plate only. Then you read the runout at the seal surface of the torque converter. The actual torque converter is stamped sheer metal and I’d be surprised to find it perfectly round. Might be interesting to check both ways.

[jlrftype7]