T25 torque converter

[Gungey]

Hi, I recently added a T25,1990 twin slider, 2.1, petrol auto to my previous list of VW's, however after replacing the fan switch and test driving it, I suddenly started loosing momentum up a hill and looked behind me to a cloud of smoke and transmission fluid smell.
My guess that that of others is the Torque convertor. The second issue, is I cant find a garage to do this replacement so I might have to break open the tool box again.
So my questions are as below if anyone can help.

Why do you need to remove the gearbox to replace the torque converter and not just drop the engine?

What are the specialist tools required to change the torque converter?

Would anyone attempt to replace the seal or replacing the entire unit?

Has anyone found a good video showing the process of autobox removal and torque replacement?

[MarkWard]

Yes, you could remove the engine instead. Probably should do some more diagnosis. The torque converters rarely fail with the symptom of slippage. You may find the slipping is the result of transmission wear. The factory manual has a table with pressure test values. Short of that, dropping the automatic pan and having a look at the floor of the pan and the filter.

[Gungey]

[MarkWard]

Clean it really well and determine where the leaks are. There are some external seals that can be accessed.

[ALIKA T3]

I bet the leak is from the TC seal, and fell onto the exhaust.

It's a million times easier and faster to drop the transmission than the engine.

Check the ATF level engine idling and hot.


TC are hard to find but can be rebuilt but like Mark said, it's likely not the culprit.

If you need parts for your rebuilder/mechanic, I have one kit left that I pieced together; I brought it to France from the US, at my brother's place.
A real complete kit: all seals/gaskets, molded pistons, clutch discs, thrust washers (and the NLA plastic ones I make and supply for rebuilders) , the 2nd gear brake band, bushings, rings and my exclusive valve body separation plate. You won't find a more complete kit anywhere especially in Europe.

They're easy to work on, anybody with decent skills and tools can do it.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
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[markswagen]

first thing you should do is check the fluid level, on flat ground with the engine running, make sure it's on the top level mark, as said before it's not often torque converters fail.
if the transmission is at fault, l would leave the engine in place, it's a MUCH bigger chunk to have to fall over while you are trying to figure it out.

what colour is the fluid, nice clean clear red ? or dirty brown.
do it look like it might have fine grey dust in it.

if it looks like strawberry milkshake, it's a paperweight, and will need a complete rebuild, and you will need to replace almost your entire cooling system

what part of the UK are you in.

the ATF you use, must be MEX/MERC compatable, this stuff seems to be, https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-...24309.html

once you have found and resolved the issue while you are putting it all back together, take out the transmission cooler, join the two hoses together, and put an air cooled cooler in it, the mess you could end up with if the cooler splits internally, is not something you want to have to deal with.
_________________
markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.

619 201 0310

[Wildthings]

Separating the TC from the flex plate is a crucial step when pulling the transmission, you want to make sure the TC stays fully on the various shafts while removing the transaxle, failure to do this can cause you to bend the pump shaft.

Read up on getting the TC reinstalled onto the splines of the two shafts. This is a critical step and you can do serious damage to the transmission if you don't do it right. It helps to have the transaxle standing on end when you are doing this. Wire the TC to the transaxle case after you have it fully on the shaft so it can't slip off again.

You should seriously consider replacing all of the seals in the transaxle while you have it out.

[Gungey]

Thank you one and all for the reply's.
I really wanted to book it in somewhere, but not many company's are interested (including transmission companies) which really surprised me.
So there is also an issue with the water jacket on 3 and 4 piston head, so rather than remove the gearbox, I am going to remove the engine and address this at the same time.
I will carefully remove the TC and see what the issue actually is, but based on the amount of smoke in out the back and what poured out the vent between engine and gearbox, it has to be TC related (although i am clues on autos).
Ive found a few videos and will be very careful when removing it and reinstating it.

What are the specialist tools required out of interest?

Thanks guys and girls.

[jlrftype7]

[dart330]

I just went through a few horrible years of a leaky Torque Converter on a newly rebuilt transaxle from German Transaxle. TC seal started leaking a few months in, had to have the trans pulled and replaced only to start leaking again a few months later. Parked it for a while as I couldn't find a shop in Houston willing to do the troubleshooting.

Ended up towing it over a 1k miles away to a specialty shop, Van Cafe Service Center. They tried everything, different kinds of seals, multiple seals, speedi sleeves and it would not stop leaking.

I shipped them a spare rebuilt TC that I had in storage and that was it. I later read that when they rebuild the TCs, they don't do anything to the center hole. If they are worn out, you may just get a bad one!
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Driving a 90 Carat since 2014

Previous Buses: 59 Westy, 60 Westy, 74 Bus, 82 Westy, 85 Westy, 87 Syncro
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[Wildthings]

[dart330]

[jlrftype7]

[Gungey]

I'm with the van now. The transmission fluid is clear and red. However with the engine running, it seems to me to be over full. It's wat past the dots and indeed the flat plate part of the dip stick. It shows just past the twist. I'm thinking the previous owner may have filled it when then engine wasn't running

[MarkWard]

If it’s over full, the fluid gets frothed with air and you will have shifting problems. If it’s too full it could leak past the vent etc.

[Gungey]

I'm going to drain it down to the correct level this week and see how it feels. It may have done damage already, but let's hope I get lucky! God knows I could do with a little luck at the moment!!
I will keep you posted.
How do you post pics and videos on here?

[Wildthings]

[Gungey]

I intend for now to hand pump it out from the dipstick pipe. Fingers crossed.

[Gungey]

Apologies if this is not allowed, please feel free to delete it.
This is a few vids of the torque converter smoke and me doing the dip stick (as well as van pics)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BFmEcfxcPoyvTsGR8

[Wildthings]

The exhaust pipe is right under the bellhousing and when hot will burn off any ATF that drips down onto it.

You are way over filled with ATF, get the level down to where it is supposed to be and see if the leaking disappears, as when over full the ATF will foam and come out of the vent and get all over everything. The marks show the proper ATF level with the tranny is hot and the engine is running in idle or park