Push Button Deck Lid Lock Cylinder disassembly and reassembly

[aquifer]

I found a 67 decklid locking latch with the correct K profile lock cylinder thanks to a suggestion in another thread.

How do I get the cylinder out in order to rekey it?

Here are 3 pictures. I labeled them Pin 1, Pin 2, and Hole. Hopefully you can refer to which pin I need to remove or whatever. I want to be sure I’m doing it right so I don’t break anything. I only found one old thread but it had no replies. If there is a definitive guide, please point me to it. Thanks in advance!

Pin 1 doesn’t seem to be a drift pin. More like the ends are mushroomed and would need to be drilled? Knowledge here would be appreciated.

Pin 2 is only visible when the button is pushed. It doesn’t seem to be fully clear of the housing, so I’m not sure if this pin could be driven out.

The hole doesn’t seem to have a pin inside. I was thinking maybe I could push down in the hole with a pick and the cylinder would release. That doesn’t seem to be the case.

_________________
Parts needed:
Front & rear NOS or used OEM door panels for a '67 in the original Gazelle color (dark tan/light brown).
Also looking for used white headliner pieces, both perforated and non-perforated.

[meranda]

This is something I have wanted to do as well. I wish someone with lock knowledge would reply.
_________________
Currently filling the garage
1961 beetle cabrio
1971 Superbug
1974 Porsche 911S Targa
1968 1500 Beetle A Project!
Past Garage fillers dozens of type1 &type3 VWs
Jaguar Mk5 & XK120
Lancia Flavia Coupe
Alfa Guilia sedan

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

IF its unlocked... Push the button.... a very very teeny tiny micro slotted screw appears in the hole... remove it and use a tool to slide the cylinder out of its bore.
.. ta dah..

Take pics and update this post to a Samba tutorial

Here is another reference

[aquifer]

[swharris]

Step 1
Get latch/lock in hand

Step 2
Go to VW show in Southern CA

Step 3
Find Gabrial's stall

Step 4
Hand him lock, key and more money than you think that service will cost

Step 5
Receive lock back and reinstall

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

Or spend 0 dollars additional, use 30 minutes of your life at your own home/shop and learn something.

Wafers/tumblers are usually different per profile but not always with a VW. Most time you can just keep swapping them around until the they are perfectly flat with the cylinder when the key is installed.

I have zero issue with a little filing or sanding if needed to get that perfect fit.... or.. leaving one out..

A lock is made for honest people only..

Graphite (dry powder) IMO is best. Nothing sticky or gummy. Tumblers and springs need to be free and loose to work properly

.
_________________
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Usually and often edited

[aquifer]

Thanks for the great tips to get me started. I got the cylinder out, cleaned everything, and reshuffled the wafers to get my key to work. I learned a ton about locks, and I have a warm feeling of accomplishment!

Here is a short guide and some corresponding pictures of the process.

I hadn’t noticed the tiny screw in the hole referenced above because there was grime in there. When volkswagnut said what to look for, I sprayed some brake cleaner in the little hole and worked the button until I got enough grime out so I could see the screw.

Here is the screw that needs to be removed. You have to hold the button in most of the way to access it.

Here is the screw removed. It takes a tiny screwdriver. I put the screw in a ziplock bag and set it off to the side so I didn’t accidentally lose it while I was working.

I stuck a small o-ring pick in the key slot to grab the edge of the cylinder and gently slid it out.

I read a tip somewhere in my research that said not to clean the cylinder and wafers until you’re done rearranging the wafers, because the old grime will help keep them in place while you mess with them. That is good advice, and it’s what I did.

Be very careful when removing the tiny springs. I used a small pick that had a 45 degree angled tip and gently hooked into the springs and pulled them out. They would fall out on their own if they were clean, but I’m glad I left everything grimy as mentioned.

Below is the final arrangement of the wafers for my key. Only one was fine as is, so I kept rearranging the others until I got it. You have to keep pulling the key in and out each time so you can see what you accomplished. That’s why it’s nice to leave everything sticky and grimy at this stage, so you don’t accidentally have a spring fly out. It didn’t take too long, especially once I got comfortable with what I was doing. There are four wafers on one side and five on the other. There is one spring for each. Keep the wafers in order so you know how they go.

Astute viewers will see that there are two wafers missing. Someone before me had left one out, and I had to leave one out that didn’t work in any of the slots. I didn’t have any spare wafers and I chose not to file it off, so I have two missing wafers. As volkswagnut said, locks are for honest people so I’m ok with that. I have two other K profile keys, and neither of them worked, so I feel that there’s sufficient security. The main goal was to rekey so that the car only needs one key. Someday if I ever have spare wafers from another project I might pop it out and see if I can find two that work. No big deal now that I know what to do.

I just used dawn dish soap and a brass brush to clean the wafers. I washed one at a time to make sure I kept them in order. For the springs I gently sprayed brake cleaner on them and rolled them around gently on a clean rag. I repeated that a couple times for each spring.

I put the latch and “empty” lock cylinder in an ultrasonic cleaner at about 100 degrees F for 25 minutes. Nothing scientific about those numbers, but I didn’t want to get it too hot and damage something so I just set it there. I then used a pick to dislodge any remaining visible debris and used some brake cleaner to flush. Then I repeated the ultrasonic for 15 minutes. Clean as a whistle! If you don’t have an ultrasonic cleaner, soaking in dish soap and using brake cleaner and a pick would probably work just fine.

My eyes aren’t like they once were so I used a magnifying glass to double check everything before I reassembled.

The clean and reassembled lock cylinder.

Here is my key inserted, showing all the wafers fully retracted, which is the goal. When the key is inserted, all the wafers should be even with the cylinder so it can turn.

Here’s the finished product with the tiny retaining screw in place. I used powdered graphite to lube the cylinder and wafers. I used too much and had to kinda gently tap to let the excess fall out. It’s smooth as silk now!

I used a dremel grinder wheel to grind off the old key code. I have access to an industrial laser engraver, so I’ll have the new code etched on the latch body.

That’s pretty much it! I enjoy learning, so this was fun for me. It probably helps to have some patience because it’s tiny, fiddly work, but it’s a job that anyone can do.
_________________
Parts needed:
Front & rear NOS or used OEM door panels for a '67 in the original Gazelle color (dark tan/light brown).
Also looking for used white headliner pieces, both perforated and non-perforated.

[meranda]

That was such a good instruction on how to go about this that it should be a Sticky.
_________________
Currently filling the garage
1961 beetle cabrio
1971 Superbug
1974 Porsche 911S Targa
1968 1500 Beetle A Project!
Past Garage fillers dozens of type1 &type3 VWs
Jaguar Mk5 & XK120
Lancia Flavia Coupe
Alfa Guilia sedan

[Bobs67vwagen]

Very good instructional by you and volksnut. I did this many years ago with my door locks but could not remember the process. So thanks to these posts I can do this again. It is fun when you solve some of these old mysteries.