Clutch cable length for'65 Frankenbug, all 9are too short

[2type2]

So my 65 body is on a later chassis, has irs and ball joint beam.( year unknown) The clutch pedal freeplay is about 3" . There is no room left to lengthen cable at the nut.
Given there is only .433 inch/11mm difference between the 54-71,74-79 :2270mm and the 72-74: 2281mm cables -----dont I need more length than that to get to 3/4- 1" pedal play?
At final stages on resto, have not driven bug yet except initially off trailer to shop.Had slight clutch chatter in first getting going. New clutch and plate have been installed. It has 2270 mm cable.

Unless im going nuts, which ain't impossible at my age, what I just read in Bentley is there should be 2mm of free space at nut at the arm when adjusted. What's next step?thanx [/code]
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[Eric&Barb]

[Jeff Geisen]

Clutch cable Bowden tube in place w proper bow? Clutch cable tube in tunnel intact and tight?
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I Corinthians 4: 1 thru 5

‘63 ragtop - ‘68 single cab

[2type2]

I think I got it reversed -- but if I tighten the cable to take up slack there will be no space of 2mm--- like Bently says. I'm at the point where I find it important to review a procedure in the book(s) before proceeding ---- but I'm easily put off track. My brain says tighten it but why does Bently say leave space loose? You can't have slack if you take up the space.
My fault for being too literal, but really getting confused too soon.
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[2type2]

When I replaced the fuel line in tunnel, clutch tube was OK- and current bowden is correctly bent.
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[rcooled]

[zerotofifty]

To reduce the pedal freeplay, you need to in effect shorten the cab,e by moving the cab,e adjusting nut towards the clutch arm, i.e. turn the nut so nut travels closer to the front of the car. now if in doing so you run out of thread for the nut to travel on, and free play at the pedal is still to big then you have either or both...

1...Too long a cable for your chassis

2... a defect in...
a... pedal cluster hook to which the cab,e is attached, the hook will wear, the metal thin, and the hook will bend, which will give excess pedal freeplay. once the hook gets that thin and bends, it will soon break and fail, so replace it with new.
b... clutch or throwout bearing problems
c... cable conduit problem inside the chassis tunnel, conduit weld(s) broken loose
d... Improper fitting of the bowden tube
e. busted or disconnected return spring on the lever
f. Pedal stop which is on the floor not adjusted right
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Sorry About That Chief.

Give Peace a Chance.

Words to live by.

[wagen19]

[2type2]

Not 9 cables, typo, 2 diff cables.... Here's what started my confusion, as I'm guilty of over anylizing things;

Quote Bentley manual page 35 Engine section:
"To adjust the cable, raise the car on a lift or support it on safety stands.Grip the clutch cable with a pair of pliers to keep it from twisting, then adjust the wing nut shown in Fig 14-13 until there is 2.0mm ( about 1/4 inch) clearance between the clutch lever and the wing nut. Recheck freeplay at the pedal to make sure it is within specifications. "

Now this is certainly not the first time I have replaced a clutch cable. My memory is such that I always follow a procedure in the book before/while doing it.

* How can it be possible to achieve a 2mm gap at lever -to-nut, when you are tensioning the nut against the arm to pull the arm forward to eliminate excessive freeplay at pedal end? *

This seems physically impossible- what does Bentley mean by this? Tightening the cable to remove slack at pedal can't allow for'" loose space" 2mm at lever.
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[Cusser]

I've been adjusting VW clutch cables for 50 years, and I only was concerned with the free play at the pedal (provided that the bowden tube bend is correct).

Don't forget and leave your Vise-Grip pliers on the clutch cable !!! Ask me how I know this !
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Eric&Barb]

[zerotofifty]

that that 2 mm dimension is that there is to be 1mm to 2 mm between the thrust surface of the throw out bearing and the clutch release plate.

My Bentley states that.... " You can NOT make this measurement directly, but you can obtain it indirectly by measuring the clutch pedal free play. Measured at the pedal, this clearance is 0.4 to 0.8 inch"

So... Ignore that 2 mm measure. What you adjust to is the PEDAL FREEPLAY OF 0.4 TO 0.8 INCH.

This pedal freeplay of 0.4 to 0.8 inch will give you the1 mm to 2 mm play inside the bell house, which is something that you can NOT measure unless you cut a hole inside the bell house.

Again, IGNORE THAT 1MM TO 2 MM MEASURE, You will obtain that clearance of 1 mm to 2 mm at the throwout bearing to clutch release plate WHEN you have adjusted the pedal freeplay to 0.4 to 0.8 inches

Good luck, Enjoy your Bug, lets see some photos of your Bug!!!!
_________________
Sorry About That Chief.

Give Peace a Chance.

Words to live by.

[zerotofifty]

[rcooled]

[2type2]

Thanks to all for the clarification. I got it together with the shorter cable but it would have helped to use a few more mm's to pass through the arm hole and start thread. Got about 3/8" at pedal.
Sometimes it seems that the J Muir narrative (re: procedure explanations), while often over simplified, keeps one from " paralysis by analysis" in approaching a problem and solution.
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"