CBPerformance throttle linkage rubbing against Decklid

[danielwlsn01]

So when i have the decklid closed, the arms on the cross bar rub against it and cause the entire linkage to not be able to return after i press the gas pedal. so the decklid holds the linkage down at full throttle.

everything was installed and reinstalled correctly so i dont know why this is happening. i know i could just stand off the decklid but i would like to fix this without having to do that if possible. but if not thats likely what ill end up doing i would just prefer not to. any tips are much appreciated

[67rustavenger]

Your linkage drop rods are to long.
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/3320.htm
These are about half the length of what you have.

When you install the shorter drop rods, you can lower the hex bar to the lower mount location on the carb bases.
Then you linkage will no contact the decklid.
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[Glenn]

What carbs and manifolds are those?

Are the manifolds offset? If so they might need to be swapped from side to side.

The lever that the accel cable is connected is way too far to the right, not sure how it doesn't bind up on its own.

Who installed the linkage?
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
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[bsairhead]

Try shortening your heim joint rods. Looks like you could make them an inch or so shorter.

[danielwlsn01]

[danielwlsn01]

[danielwlsn01]

[Glenn]

[bsairhead]

[Glenn]

[Rome]

They look like Dell'Orto 34 FRD single-throats with CB's intake manifolds and linkage kit. Known as "Freds" or "baby Dell's". I bought a set new in '88 and installed them on my Karmann Ghia. I don't think I ever had them on a Beetle. I still have the set, they're in my basement and I just measured the down-rod length between the Heim joint centers based on the last time I had them on the engine- 6 3/4". But that depends on which of the two crossbar end stud holes you use on the air filter bases, IF your bases have two holes such as on IDF bases. My set only had a single hole for the crossbar.

I vaguely remember that the down-rods were much shorter than on those for IDFs, and that CB Performance used to sell them specifically for FRDs. I don't have those shorter rods in the storage box. If you don't want to cut your existing down-rods, you can make your own. Go to a good HW store and find solid brass or aluminum round bar stock based on the diameter of the threads' diameter on your rods. I can't remember what the thread pitch was; but if you unwind and remove one of your Heim joints to expose the thread, they are likely metric. Take the down-rod to the HW store and hope they have a die to match. CB might even have the size listed for the down-rods on their site. Then cut threads onto each end of the rod, about 3/4" total length.

Careful- one of the original rod ends and the corresponding Heim joint might be LEFT-hand thread. But you can make your own down-rod using conventional right-hand threads, though you then have to unbolt either of the Heim joints from its corresponding attachment point to extend or shorten the joint for exact and matching throttle plate opening.

(Glenn already reported this but I did not see it until after I posted)- Your throttle cable down-bar is much too far over to the right. You should loosen the Allen grub screw and slide it over so that it's in line with the cable. This has nothing to do with your engine lid interference, but does provide a full opening motion for the carb's full throttle.

You can also install a stock-style cable barrel nut on the cable once you move the arm back over. Put that on first, then feed the long extra end of the cable thru the arm's barrel nut. This way you have TWO securing clamps on the bare cable.

[Rome]

Another fix for your existing setup (no parts modification needed), though not fully effective, is to move your down-rod arms inward about an inch or two along the crossbar. That brings the arm ends to where they are in the rearward curve of the engine lid, which should create enough room for full linkage movement without contacting the inside of the lid. Use a "construction level" app on your cell phone to measure the tilt angle of the down-rods and make them the same angle (mirror-image).

The disadvantage is that the down-rods are now no longer providing full activation to the throttle arm/butterfly because they are working at an angle. Moving the down-rods away from their optimum vertical position will reduce the movement transmitted to the throttle arm for its full opening.