Windshield rubber removal / adding chrome trim

[BMFBMF]

Hello Folks, so 20 years ago I got a stone and it cracked my OG window. My dad had it replaced but in the process the chrome trim got lost. ARRRGGHHH, I'm still upset 20 years later. (if you want a job done properly do it yada yada....)

I bought new good quality chrome trim and tried against all advice (yes I'm hard headed) to fit it with the window in situ. It might work but did not for me HAHA.

So my question is, considering that the window still has the original rubber, is there a way to get the window out and save and reuse the rubber? Most videos seem to just cut the rubber to get to the window (my rubber is still nice an pliable).

Once out I will try to first put the chrome into the rubber and then the window and reinstall everything together with the plastic cord trick.

Here's a pic of the corner. Its a flat window (standard 71 bug in RSA was closer to mid 60s manufacture specs).

Thanks a million,

BMF

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-----Slava Ukraini-----
1971 Stock South African Beetle 1300 : My mom's european "Thin Chick" spec. Completely stock with torsion bar front, swingaxle rear, smooth hubs, single MC, 40 mm shoes, 31PICT3 carb and 5 bolt drums all round, currently Running a 1976 SF:AS engine with the original SF:AD engine overhauled in a box, waiting to go back in one day.

[Bobs67vwagen]

Over the years I have taken a number of windows out of bugs and saved the seal. If the rubber is still soft and flexible I would carefully take a flat screwdriver and start pressing the rubber up and then behind the raised metal. Work slowly and avoid putting pressure on the glass. It can be done and will take a while so be patient. Good luck-Bob

[viiking]

I once saw an old guy do the reverse rope trick to remove the windscreen, but not on a VW. Well now I am really old, that was a long time ago.

From memory he put the cord in from the front and had one person inside and another outside and they sort of sawed the inner rubber seal (without damaging it) off the inner frame. Sort of opposite to what you do to when installing it. He used soapy water as a lubricant.

I guess you sort of deform the inner part of the seal so it goes back "inside" the frame and releases the window.

Achieves the same result as the screwdriver, but probably with less damage.

As I said it was a long time ago, so only a suggestion.
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1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[my3bugs]

soap it up some trying to get it under the inner n outer lip upper lip with a spray bottle mostly at the top . " if you dont cut the rubber there is a chance of breaking the glass , now you gota position your self inside the car with both feet on the upper windshield edge pushing out , you need someone outside to help catch it . you dont want your feet in the center or you break the glass , your feet need to be near the ends but not too near , the whole idea is you gota keep it flat as you push or it breaks . prolly easier to get a new rubber n cut it out . but i understand being cheap not wanting to spent $$ too . ya you need to put all the trim in the rubber before installing the window .

if your rubber isnt too old it might work

the rubber is cheaper than new glass . but i have removed at least 1 that way .

your rubber cuz no trim has more flexibility than most

[bugger-off]

IMO I'd leave it be, this would be a can of worms for me. Afterall, you cannot see there is no chrome while you're driving!

[baldessariclan]

[Cusser]

I've installed two windows in my life, the rear window in my 1971 VW convertible and the rear in my 1970 sedan.

Neither could I get the "chrome" trim in the seal (new seals for both), so I just put the seal onto the glass without it and installed them.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[lner JP]

I agree with Cusser, getting the crome to sit in the seal and then fit it is incredably difficult, so when I fitted my windscreen a couple of months ago, I fitted just the seal with the glass and then put the trim in later using a trim tool, it was much, much easyier that way round.

https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/011898109a-...NsQAvD_BwE

JP[/url]
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Stock 1973 GT Beetle in Apple Green

[baldessariclan]

??? I've done this on the windshield about 3 times now (over the years), plus the side windows as well. It can be a bit tedious, but certainly far from impossible. Yes, you definitely want to have the seal mounted around the edge of the glass -- but not installed in the car -- prior to fitting the trim in. Also, employing plastic "trim tools" (e.g. from Harbor Freight, or similar) tends to make the job a little easier as well, IMO.

Here's a good video showing how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sq_0Qbhjfa8
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1971 Standard Beetle — fairly stock / driver

baldessariclan -- often in error, never in doubt...

[BMFBMF]

Thanks for all the input guys, lot of lethargy but I hate the way it looks .
JP, I think that tool is for the plastic trim and won't work with the steel trim.
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-----Slava Ukraini-----
1971 Stock South African Beetle 1300 : My mom's european "Thin Chick" spec. Completely stock with torsion bar front, swingaxle rear, smooth hubs, single MC, 40 mm shoes, 31PICT3 carb and 5 bolt drums all round, currently Running a 1976 SF:AS engine with the original SF:AD engine overhauled in a box, waiting to go back in one day.

[baldessariclan]

Recommend getting a set of plastic trim tools like these from Amazon, Harbor Freight, or etc. Can make dealing with things like rubber seals, trim, and similar items a lot easier!:

https://www.amazon.com/Nylon-Pry-Bar-Installer-Warranty/dp/B016F1PP3Y?gQT=1
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1971 Standard Beetle — fairly stock / driver

baldessariclan -- often in error, never in doubt...

[BMFBMF]

Yeah, I got a bunch of those years ago. Use them to remove door panels and things like that. Will try them when I get around to it.

I might just buy a front window rubber, and compare the old and the new before I go any further
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-----Slava Ukraini-----
1971 Stock South African Beetle 1300 : My mom's european "Thin Chick" spec. Completely stock with torsion bar front, swingaxle rear, smooth hubs, single MC, 40 mm shoes, 31PICT3 carb and 5 bolt drums all round, currently Running a 1976 SF:AS engine with the original SF:AD engine overhauled in a box, waiting to go back in one day.

[baldessariclan]

[BMFBMF]

Thanks
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-----Slava Ukraini-----
1971 Stock South African Beetle 1300 : My mom's european "Thin Chick" spec. Completely stock with torsion bar front, swingaxle rear, smooth hubs, single MC, 40 mm shoes, 31PICT3 carb and 5 bolt drums all round, currently Running a 1976 SF:AS engine with the original SF:AD engine overhauled in a box, waiting to go back in one day.

[toddgsanford]

The seal shown in your post appears better than average quality. You can remove the window by prying gently from the inside corners. Apply pressure outward a helper is a good idea. As long as you don’t tear the seal you should be able to remove. Silicone spray is best lube. Once out on a flat surface with lots of lube the trim can be added. Start at corners. I have found once the trim gets started it kind of falls in place fairly easy. Be patient you will need the trim tools shown previously. I’d installed many windows before attempting the chrome and was pleased and no longer as apprehensive about. You can ruin the chrome fairly easily if your not careful but it’s fairly forgiving.very good video here https://share.google/tuIld5w5fEgPtSPTB
Lastly My go to seal rope is an old lawnmower pull starter rope I’ve used for years probably has a gallon of soap/silicone embedded in it.