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Tenknots Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2024 Posts: 49 Location: NorCal
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Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2025 3:50 pm Post subject: Help, new engine won't start |
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I built a 1600 engine for my 71 SB with all new parts. I rebuilt a Solex 30/31 PICT for it. Installed a new EMPI electronic ignition dizzy, new wires and coil designed for the distributor. Filled it with break in oil, stuck the fuel line in a jug and cranked. The engine turns over well and fast (new battery) but refuses to fire. The oil pressure light goes off after a bit of cranking. I've checked that I am getting spark. (new plugs and coil) and I can see a spark when I ground out the plug to the engine. I can see fuel being sucked up by the fuel pump (temporarily installed a see-through filter at the end). I have poured a little gas in the carb. Nothing. I have sprayed starting spray while cranking. Nothing. Out of a total of maybe five minutes of cranking over two days I have have gotten maybe a couple of pops. No backfires. The engine spins strong. Manually rotating it I can tell compression is good and I can feel air from the exhaust pipes while cranking. I have checked the valves twice more just in case (they were not off). I have set the #1 cylinder at TDC (verified it was at TDC with valve cover off and both valves were closed). The crank pulley lines up with mark while it's at TDC. The distributor rotor points to number 1 plug wire. Plugs are in order CW on distributor - 1,4,3,2. Wires run correctly to cylinders. I even reversed the wires in case it was 180 off and nothing.
I would think if the timing was off, even way off I'd still get a few pops or even backfires. But even when starting fluid is sprayed into the carb it never even fires once.
I've checked the continuity of the plug wires - all ok (they are new anyway).
I removed the carb. Bowl had fuel in it. (Note: I have not rebuilt a carb before but there really wasn't much to it but I suppose I could have made a mistake somewhere. One thing I noticed is that when actuating the carb lever, no fuel is squirted from the accelerator pump nozzle). The butterflies seem to open properly. No air or fuel leaks. I checked the 1 and 2 plugs several times for spark, I can always see it so I don't think it's the distributor. But again, starting fluid or a little gas poured into the carb does nothing.
I feel like I'm missing something big and/or stupid. Compression, fuel and spark. But no start.
What am I missing or what should I look for? |
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1600man Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2025 Posts: 15 Location: Wichita KS USA
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Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2025 4:00 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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You might try adjusting the distributor a few degrees each direction. If you have fuel and spark and it's sparking at the right time it should fire.
Maybe while fixing the accelerator pump you'll discover something that you missed. But with gas poured down the carb it should run for a few seconds. _________________ 1970 VW beetle
(1973 1600DP)
1972 Cutlass
(1970) 455 |
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Tenknots Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2024 Posts: 49 Location: NorCal
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Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2025 4:11 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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1600man wrote: |
You might try adjusting the distributor a few degrees each direction. If you have fuel and spark and it's sparking at the right time it should fire.
Maybe while fixing the accelerator pump you'll discover something that you missed. But with gas poured down the carb it should run for a few seconds. |
Thanks. I've tried timing a few degrees each way and nothing. I'd think I'd at least get a pop or backfire even if it was off a lot. |
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viiking Samba Member

Joined: May 10, 2013 Posts: 3247 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2025 4:16 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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If you are sure it's not 180 degrees out, set the electronic dizzy to fire at the BTDC mark on your pulley. Whatever it is 7.5 or 10 degrees BTDC. Then repeat.
The relevant BTDC angle should be documented on the car or in the archive section. _________________ 1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3 |
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bsairhead Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2008 Posts: 4516 Location: viroqua wi.
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Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2025 4:40 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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Are your plugs dry? I would think they would be really wet if it's getting fuel. Have you tried to palm choke it? |
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Blandyp Samba Member

Joined: May 27, 2025 Posts: 39 Location: England
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 5:11 am Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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Tenknots wrote: |
...I can see fuel being sucked up by the fuel pump (temporarily installed a see-through filter at the end)....
I removed the carb. Bowl had fuel in it. (Note: I have not rebuilt a carb before but there really wasn't much to it but I suppose I could have made a mistake somewhere. One thing I noticed is that when actuating the carb lever, no fuel is squirted from the accelerator pump nozzle)....
What am I missing or what should I look for? |
it's got to be worth checking the carb isn't suffering from a blockage or goosed diaphragm - it's easy enough to remove from the engine, and once off to take apart and clean and check the jets and give the whole thing a good seeing to with carb cleaner. There's videos of how to on that YouTube thingummy.
Like this one
https://youtu.be/2ghVPZVAROw?si=-_X2kojVqfkEcUbH
You'd expect the (assuming it's a solex) top "nozzle" (the curved bronze shower like jet thing) to squirt fuel when you pull back the carb lever, and the fact you say it doesn't suggests a problem there, I think. There's a little diaphragm in the side of the carb, with a spring gubbins and that seems like it needs to be checked for condition. Just 4 little screws to open it and look. _________________ Idling insignificantly |
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pondoras box Samba Member

Joined: March 22, 2004 Posts: 1707 Location: Eerie PA
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 5:27 am Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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It won’t fire on starting fluid but you verified spark, my next step would be check the compression using the tool that threads into the spark plug hole. You need three things fuel oxygen mix, spark, and compression. You already verified the first two. What was the compression ratio set at when building the engine? _________________ Looking for anything from Hal Casey Motors out of Hamburg New York, from license plate surrounds to matchbooks.
1961 23 Window (Bobo)
1965 11 Window (Zelda). https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563183
1965 13 Window (Lucas)
1957 Oval ragtop
1960 hardtop
1964 hardtop
1965 hardtop
Another 65 hardtop
1973 standard bug
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804912
1988 Cabriolet VR6 conversion |
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bugger-off Samba Member

Joined: March 29, 2025 Posts: 68
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 6:18 am Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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Do you have an old-style tried-and-true distributor with points? Throw that on there and try it. I've had nothing but bad luck with electronic distributors, especially Pertronix, and will never bother again. Some people here have had positive experiences with them but every one I ever got was junk or went bad. |
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Tenknots Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2024 Posts: 49 Location: NorCal
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 10:56 am Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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Blandyp wrote: |
Tenknots wrote: |
...I can see fuel being sucked up by the fuel pump (temporarily installed a see-through filter at the end)....
I removed the carb. Bowl had fuel in it. (Note: I have not rebuilt a carb before but there really wasn't much to it but I suppose I could have made a mistake somewhere. One thing I noticed is that when actuating the carb lever, no fuel is squirted from the accelerator pump nozzle)....
What am I missing or what should I look for? |
it's got to be worth checking the carb isn't suffering from a blockage or goosed diaphragm - it's easy enough to remove from the engine, and once off to take apart and clean and check the jets and give the whole thing a good seeing to with carb cleaner. There's videos of how to on that YouTube thingummy.
Like this one
https://youtu.be/2ghVPZVAROw?si=-_X2kojVqfkEcUbH
You'd expect the (assuming it's a solex) top "nozzle" (the curved bronze shower like jet thing) to squirt fuel when you pull back the carb lever, and the fact you say it doesn't suggests a problem there, I think. There's a little diaphragm in the side of the carb, with a spring gubbins and that seems like it needs to be checked for condition. Just 4 little screws to open it and look. |
I rebuilt the whole thing last winter so all new parts but you're right, there must be a blockage. I'll take it apart again and see why the accelerator pump is not working.
One thing I remember is that when I disconnected the fuel line from the carb after cranking, there seemed to be a lot of pressure and some fuel squirted out from the carb fitting.
Still, you'd think it would at least fire from starting fluid... |
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viiking Samba Member

Joined: May 10, 2013 Posts: 3247 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 5:16 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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Tenknots wrote: |
Still, you'd think it would at least fire from starting fluid... |
Yes.
Unless the spark does not coincide AFTER the inlet valve has opened to admit fuel to the cylinder.
Have you double checked you aren't out 180 as I suggested?
Here's a better explanation from Ashman40 from another thread.
Understand the following concepts:
The TDC mark on the crank pulley indicates when both #1 and #3 cylinders are at the top of their stroke... the pulley TDC mark by itself cannot tell you which cylinder is ready to spark.
For each cylinder, the engine must rotate two revolutions (720-deg) for one four-stroke cycle. This means there will be two TDC events at each cylinder for each four-stroke cycle. One is the end of the compression stroke (when a spark is needed) and the other is at the end of the exhaust stroke (no spark).
Spark plug fires at the end of the compression stroke (near TDC). It is the distributor which determines which spark plug wire receives the spark. The rotor points to the distributor post gets the spark.
For the piston to compress the air-fuel mixture during the compression stroke, both valves for that cylinder must be closed.
#3 cylinder shares the same cam lobes with #1 cylinder. When #1's valves are closed at TDC of the compression stroke. #3 is between the exhaust and intake strokes and both #3 valves are in motion. You can confirm valve movement by rocking the crank pulley back and forth. _________________ 1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3 |
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pondoras box Samba Member

Joined: March 22, 2004 Posts: 1707 Location: Eerie PA
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 5:18 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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If he was 180 I think he would get backfires at least. That’s been my experience anyway. _________________ Looking for anything from Hal Casey Motors out of Hamburg New York, from license plate surrounds to matchbooks.
1961 23 Window (Bobo)
1965 11 Window (Zelda). https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563183
1965 13 Window (Lucas)
1957 Oval ragtop
1960 hardtop
1964 hardtop
1965 hardtop
Another 65 hardtop
1973 standard bug
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804912
1988 Cabriolet VR6 conversion |
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pondoras box Samba Member

Joined: March 22, 2004 Posts: 1707 Location: Eerie PA
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 5:19 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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Do you remember your deck heights and cc’s of your heads? _________________ Looking for anything from Hal Casey Motors out of Hamburg New York, from license plate surrounds to matchbooks.
1961 23 Window (Bobo)
1965 11 Window (Zelda). https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563183
1965 13 Window (Lucas)
1957 Oval ragtop
1960 hardtop
1964 hardtop
1965 hardtop
Another 65 hardtop
1973 standard bug
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804912
1988 Cabriolet VR6 conversion |
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viiking Samba Member

Joined: May 10, 2013 Posts: 3247 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 5:20 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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pondoras box wrote: |
If he was 180 I think he would get backfires at least. That’s been my experience anyway. |
Well he did say:
"Out of a total of maybe five minutes of cranking over two days I have have gotten maybe a couple of pops. No backfires. " _________________ 1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3 |
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viiking Samba Member

Joined: May 10, 2013 Posts: 3247 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 5:23 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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I have no experience with the Empi electronic distributor.
Does it come with the drive dog at the bottom already installed? On a normal distributor you can actually install the dog out by 180 degrees and it will still fit into the case's drive. _________________ 1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3 |
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bomberbob Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2015 Posts: 769 Location: Iowa
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 7:07 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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I am probably repeating the same thing previous posts have said, but essentially all the motor needs to run, or at least temporarily run and then die is the fuel and air mix, enough compression, and then that spark at precisely the right time. If the combustion chamber CC is not known, then break out the compression tester and see what you have. If you are within spec, then you need to determine correct ignition timing. Look at the timing marks on the pulley, compared to the rocker arm position to make sure you are not 180 degrees out. I would fool with fuel last. If the plugs are not fuel or oil fouled, either ether or a little gasoline squirted should be enough to light off, even if its only a momentary burst. Please do a compression test and report your findings. _________________ 1968 Beetle torn apart again
1990 Jetta GLI megasquirted, burning E85 (currently in storage)
2004 Jetta turbo GLI
Marion, Iowa |
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Schepp Samba Member

Joined: March 22, 2020 Posts: 554 Location: NorCal
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Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2025 8:51 am Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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If everything needed for the engine to run has been verified and still wont start. I suspect the distributor drive gear was installed wrong. Its an easy mistake to make.
Even with a poor static time it'll still start.
The accelerator pump issue will need to be addressed sooner than later. You can still bottle feed the engine right down the throat.
I'd put it back at #1 compression stroke TDC. Take off the cap and see where the rotor is. Not every distributor has #1 in the same position. My Pertronix SVDA for example was different than the 009 that came out. The Pertronix didn't even have the mark on the rim for #1. I had to mark it. Reverify the plug wires are correct. Remove the distributor and look down the hole.
Take a pic for us. Specifically the orientation of the drive gear slot. I bet its incorrect. |
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Tenknots Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2024 Posts: 49 Location: NorCal
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Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2025 11:31 am Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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Schepp wrote: |
If everything needed for the engine to run has been verified and still wont start. I suspect the distributor drive gear was installed wrong. Its an easy mistake to make.
Even with a poor static time it'll still start.
The accelerator pump issue will need to be addressed sooner than later. You can still bottle feed the engine right down the throat.
I'd put it back at #1 compression stroke TDC. Take off the cap and see where the rotor is. Not every distributor has #1 in the same position. My Pertronix SVDA for example was different than the 009 that came out. The Pertronix didn't even have the mark on the rim for #1. I had to mark it. Reverify the plug wires are correct. Remove the distributor and look down the hole.
Take a pic for us. Specifically the orientation of the drive gear slot. I bet its incorrect. |
So here's where I am. I took apart the carb and found a clogged accelerator pump - fixed that. This carb has all brand new needles, gaskets etc,
The distributor gear was likely installed wrong by the PO. When I find TDC on # 1 (verified by pulling the valve cover and making sure both valves are closed), the rotor points to about 9 o'clock. It does not line up with the tiny notch on the case, which is around 3 o'clock. But at TDC, that's where it points. Just for fun I reversed the wires 180 degrees - not even a pop with gas and starting fluid.
What I've observed:
I checked all four plugs and when grounded to the block there is spark. I'm working with the sun so I can't tell how strong the spark should be but I can definitely see spark.
After cranking, the plugs are not wet. In fact, they are a little grey as you'd expect if it was running well. They are new plugs gapped to .025. Plug wires are new too.
I verified the idle cutoff solenoid is working - it clicks on and the plunger moved when the ignition is on.
It looks like the distributor can only go in one way based on how the drive meshes (slightly off-center). Even if it was in wrong by 180 degrees, by changing the wires 180 degrees as a test that should make a difference.
When I move the crank pulley with a wrench, it's obvious there is good compression - it gets hard to turn then eases off as I think it should.
I verified the fuel pump fills the carb bowl (new pump).
I can smell the evaporated starting fluid coming from the exhaust pipes.
The engine turns over strongly. New battery, freshly charged.
So, I have compression. I have spark. I have fuel to the carb and I have squirted fuel into the carb before starting and sprayed starter fluid. For the last two days I have had zero pops. No backfires. Note: This is a dual port engine. All new seals on the manifolds.
I am missing something. Maybe something stupid. The PO built the block, but I assembled everything else and took my time over winter. I don't think I made any glaring mistakes. I mean, it cranks great. What the hell? |
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pondoras box Samba Member

Joined: March 22, 2004 Posts: 1707 Location: Eerie PA
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Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2025 11:49 am Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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Ok last time I going to respond here. We need to know your compression ratio numbers. I know you feel compression even 5:1 will give you feed back. But will not be enough to start. Without this very important reading no one here can give you any usable advice. It’s the next step. You are verifying two of the three needed elements to run. You can eliminate fuel issues with the starting fluid, you are using starting fluid and not brake cleaner right? You see spark so points condenser and coil is working. You distributor is rotating. We are at the point of it being internal. So start with compression check. Next is to see if your cam is rotating. Yes they can snap clean off and the distributor will still rotate. If your sure your getting fuel to your cylinders. If you’re not 100% sure check that you don’t have tape over an intake runner or something. _________________ Looking for anything from Hal Casey Motors out of Hamburg New York, from license plate surrounds to matchbooks.
1961 23 Window (Bobo)
1965 11 Window (Zelda). https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563183
1965 13 Window (Lucas)
1957 Oval ragtop
1960 hardtop
1964 hardtop
1965 hardtop
Another 65 hardtop
1973 standard bug
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804912
1988 Cabriolet VR6 conversion |
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vamram  Samba Member

Joined: March 08, 2012 Posts: 8066 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2025 12:26 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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viiking wrote: |
Tenknots wrote: |
Still, you'd think it would at least fire from starting fluid... |
Yes.
Unless the spark does not coincide AFTER the inlet valve has opened to admit fuel to the cylinder.
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It could be as simple as this. Yesterday I did the cam break-in for my newly-re-re-built 1679. It wouldn't start the first few attempts even w/starter fluid sprayed into the carb. The problem was I had the timing to retarded. Once I advanced it (it ended up being almost spot-on at 8*BTDC) it immediately sparked and started up. _________________ "Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke
“If something cannot go on forever, it will stop.”
Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...languishing since 2022.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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Schepp Samba Member

Joined: March 22, 2020 Posts: 554 Location: NorCal
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Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2025 1:45 pm Post subject: Re: Help, new engine won't start |
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If I understand correctly... basically what you're saying is that you too suspect the drive gear was installed incorrectly. Though instead of taking the time to fix that issue, you're going to work around it and proceed anyways?
I think I'm done here.
Best of luck. |
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