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Electronic ignition ignition wires-the truth?
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Backtotheeightiesagain
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 12:40 am    Post subject: Electronic ignition ignition wires-the truth? Reply with quote

From looking at a few retailers websites it seems that they do not have are definite facts on what ignition wires to use and why.
Some (powerspark, uk) list use only silicone non copper leads or interference will.....
123 ignition, Denmark/Netherlands said copper is fine.
Each one differing answers but no real evidence.
Maybe bs to 'link sell' new parts you didn't need....
I don't have a degree in electronics or electro magnetic fields but someone out there will!
All the new vw I worked on years ago came with bosch electronic ignition, all with copper wires. Bosch certainly knew back then how to make quality systems. So I like copper. It lasts.
The aftermarket stuff feels cheap.
As I can't find decent OE type 4 leads with the correct ends,
So what is the best performance lead (especially for upgrading to CDI)???
Or is copper still OK?!
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dunk
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 1:21 am    Post subject: Re: Electronic ignition ignition wires-the truth? Reply with quote

If using cdi, imo..

Msd for example, don't recommend solid core wires.

So go for low resistance per foot helically wound , you're looking at-

taylor thundervolt 8.2,
msd superconductor,
moroso ultra 40.

Or similar.

If type 1 just buy the taylors from CB. Great price.

You can buy these wires per foot and make your own.

Non resistor plugs would be nice.

Don't forget to remove the resistor from the rotor arm if it has one. The extra power of cdi will burn it out.
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mikedjames
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 9:06 am    Post subject: Re: Electronic ignition ignition wires-the truth? Reply with quote

In the UK the Accuspark silicone wires sold on eBay for instance have spiral wound cores identical to Taylor Spiro Pro for a lot less money - I have had both types but changed because I am using a wasted spark system and needed different plug ends. Used with points, electronic modules until I gave up on replacing them, points until I gave up on replacing new condensers, EDIS. ..

The 123 is electrically just a points replacement like the in- distributor electronic( hot failure )modules we all get sold with different branding. So the spark energy is the same or slightly less than with points ( the transistors used feed the coil with 1 volt less than points so for some coils the energy stored may be a little less). .So plug wires should all be the same style. Maybe when we all used AM radio you could hear it. Apparently with DAB radio and an engine at 3000 rpm the spark pulses neatly jam it too..

Where the 123 wins is that it has really stable timing with vacuum advance and is well made and new.
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runamoc Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 4:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Electronic ignition ignition wires-the truth? Reply with quote

Quote:
Don't forget to remove the resistor from the rotor arm if it has one

How you do that? I know the water cooled engines use a rotor arm that has less resistance than the Beetle. Seems soldering a wire on the arm would do the same thing...but removing it? Then what?
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DesertSasquatchXploration
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 7:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Electronic ignition ignition wires-the truth? Reply with quote

Tons Performance, screw MSD Taylor Moroso ETC
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dunk
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2025 2:10 am    Post subject: Re: Electronic ignition ignition wires-the truth? Reply with quote

runamoc wrote:
Quote:
Don't forget to remove the resistor from the rotor arm if it has one

How you do that? I know the water cooled engines use a rotor arm that has less resistance than the Beetle. Seems soldering a wire on the arm would do the same thing...but removing it? Then what?


I wasn't clear, yes.. soldering a piece of wire or brass/copper onto the rotor arm instead of the resistor. Or just buy one without a resistor. I have seen resistor versions burn out. A simple fix when you find it, but very annoying at the time.
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oprn
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2025 3:10 am    Post subject: Re: Electronic ignition ignition wires-the truth? Reply with quote

I am running Ford's EDIS 4 on my type 4 engine. I went down to my local NAPA and bought a set of wires for a mid 80's Ford V8 and picked 4 wires out of the set that closest matched the length I needed.

Done.
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runamoc Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2025 6:41 am    Post subject: Re: Electronic ignition ignition wires-the truth? Reply with quote

Quote:
have seen resistor versions burn out

Ran across this before too. Used a strobe timing light as a 'test' light. Had the flashing light on the coil wire going to the distributor but not on any of the plug wires. Ohm meter confirmed the diagnosis. Cool
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Backtotheeightiesagain
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2025 7:47 am    Post subject: Re: Electronic ignition ignition wires-the truth? Reply with quote

Yes taking all that in.
Am already doing the rotor mod, if the solder iron can cope well on that size copper.
I just want to buy leads that work and last a good while. They were made to size, how come it's my job now?! Maybe they are better at crimping properly....
Aren't most of the silicone fancy colour ones carbon core?
That was what people binned in the 1970s.
NGK did years ago excellent blue and clear see through wound ones, if I could get something similar to them then I'd try them.
Ps is that crane Xr700 optical system reliable...?
Or is points and CD I a better option?
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Backtotheeightiesagain
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2025 8:04 am    Post subject: Re: Electronic ignition ignition wires-the truth? Reply with quote

MIKEDJAMES
What modules have you got through that bust?
I liked the factory bosch electronic type 4 ignition till bosch gave up making parts/anything useful
/there are no good hall units that last.
I checked and they are ok to 125*c. They seem to fry less in front engine water cooled cars.
In fact I never changed one in them.
Is accuspark better than the others (pertronix etc gone to the dogs now)?
That stuff in bromsgrove store seems more toys r us than O.E.
About 3 different brands for the type 4 leads listed as one confused mess,
then another sort completely actually on the shelf .
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