Brake line restoration

[Alan Brase]

How do you rusty bus restorers put the German type flare on new steel brake lines? I regularly buy the tubing in rolls and can get new flare nuts, but I've yet to find the exact tool available for sale. (I've been getting by with a Weatherhead double flare tool for American type flares and then stopping after the first operation,, but they are not very consistant. ) not dangerous, but I'd like to find a better way. I really prefer to snake in the long pipe from a roll rather that making it out of 2 or 3 pieces.
Good brake lines are pretty much a necessity with a single master cylinder system!
Al
69 double cab, 56 pickup

[dstefun]

Snap-on lists 2 different sets, depending on whether it's a bubble flare or not --- don't know for sure. Hazetguy probably knows - send him a PM. What's your source for metric brake tubing on a roll? They should have something.

Bubble flare tool, metric, $105
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=&to...ir=catalog

Double flare tool, metric, $45
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=&to...ir=catalog
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[Alan Brase]

Actually, my Weatherhead tool looks exactly like the double flare tool. I've just been using 3/16 tubing. It seemed to be the same size as what was there, and has worked okay so far. Who supplies metric sizes?
Al
69 double cab, 56 pickup

[hazetguy]

hazet makes a flaring kit, if you want to spend serious dollars.
ronnie in havasu used to sell (may still) pre-made "kits" with all the lines and flares on them already. obviously the lines are not pre-bent.
ask him (splitpile).

[BryanM]

Am I just ignorant or are you guys making this difficult?
I order the lines in the front drum and the one from the rear T fitting to the left rear flex line from WW and then buy the rest of the steel lines from NAPA.
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-Bryan

Motorwagen LLC
Concord NC

[swervyjoe]

WolfsburgWest has kits with all the metal lines for like 50 bucks. there not bent, but its not hard to do. the lines are cut to lenght and flared.

[ratpanel61]

I've gotten the whole kit from WW a couple of times, and it's always worked great for me. Even with shipping it's always less than the frustration of trying to biuld my own.
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[jeremyrockjock]

Double flare tools are fairly common.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40878
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[UZI]

i buy the WW kits too. why suffer?
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[Clara]

if I feel like a vintage pervert I buy NOS brake lines.

If I dont, I go to the local brake shop and have them make the lines. I have to tell them how long to make the lines, also they end up with 12mm nuts instead of 11 mm, doesn't take long.

either way they are straight and then you have to bend them.
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[Alan Brase]

I've got the double flare tool, just looking for the bubble flare tool.
I've never considered just buying the lines pre made. Maybe back when I started there were NOT places like WW supplying exact length parts, but rather the only thing available were the generic parts store ones made in 10 inch steps. So sometimes I had to put a small loop in them to use up the extra. I've got a lot of practice on American cars making new lines.
Al
69 double cab, 56 pickup

[debunked]

question for you experienced guys:

I replaced the master cylinder, all four flex lines, and both rear wheel cylinders yet it still has sticky rear brakes. The front brakes seem to loosen back up but the rear stay somewhat rubbing unless I bleed out some fluid.

I can drive it down the road and use the brakes a few times and I am back to the rear brakes holding up again.

The return spring on the pedal seems solid and fine, but when you do a quick push and remove your foot it takes a little bit of time for it to return to full upward position.

Do you think the master cylinder could be faulty or should I be looking at replacing the lines you are talking about on this thread?

Thanks..........

[swervyjoe]

you might check the "t" conection in the back. (where the two rear sides split) it may be cloged. i wouldn't think the master is at fault. its a single cylinder so the front would be acting up also.

[Lind]

[Flipseat]

Mastercool makes a *very* nice line flaring set that does everything... double flare, bubble flare, quick disconnect, and even GM fuel line flaring. Its hydraulic, not manual and at ~$400 it will set you back some, but you'll love it. Its one of my favorite tools. They also sell kits for less with just double/bubble flares too I believe.
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[ToolBox]

[debunked]

[Clara]

is your pedal pivot sticky? This can make the pedal stay down even if the spring is good... it should spring back up immediately when you dont push the pedal down, and if it doesn't, something is wrong up front.
so remove the pedal (13mm nut/bolt under bus, and remove that pivot, which involves a larger nut/bolt, and probably tapping with a drift..., it can be sticky) clean off the pivoting thing, apply fresh grease, and reinstall. the earlier buses have zerks to lube the brake and clutch pivots, why did they stop that?

if the pedal doesn't pop up, the brakes will of course, stay on partway, which wears things out. you can do the clutch pivot too. and grease all the moving parts under the bus there... ebrake linkage etc.

grease is your bus' friend. have you greased yr bus today?