Carb overhaul or replacement?

[buggirl]

OK, seems there's lots of conflicting info around...

for a 1200cc with a 28 pict (original equipment),
can we substitute one of the new 30pict on the market since 28's aren't available any more, or do we have to rebuild the 28?

thanks
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'67 Hardtop

[gt1953]

You can fine the 28's in the clasifieds from a guy whom does rebuild them. I would opt to rebuld your for the 7 or 8 buck for the rebuild kit.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[Seb67]

That is a good question. I was wondering that myself, but my situation is the opposite. I am interested in using a 28PCI or 28PICT in place of my 30PICT-1. Will there be any problem fitting it on the manifold? What year carbs fit on what year intakes?
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1964 Type 1

[buggirl]

ok, more confusion - whats the difference between pci, pict, and pict1 ??
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'67 Hardtop

[Seb67]

The different numbers designate the model of the carb and when it was in use. As things evolved over the years and changes were made VW designated a new model name for each new carbuerator. I don't know the exact years that each model was in use, but here is a cronological list (oldest first) of the different model's of carbs that I know of. By the way, I am no expert on this so if someone else can point out anything I've missed, please dive right in.

28 PCI
28 PICT
30 PICT
30 PICT-1
30 PICT-2
30 PICT-3
34 PICT-3

Generally speaking, the older they are, the simpler they are.
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1964 Type 1

[Mike J. Goode]

Remember that to rebuild a carb correctly so that it works as new involves more than slapping a rebuilt kit in it. Very important thing to keep in mind is the throttle shaft on these carbs wears and should be rebushed. I think RIMCO does this. (800)331-4775. If this area is in bad shape you can rebuild the carb as many times as you wish, it still won't perform properly.

[oc63rag]

Good point Mike Goode. I rebuilt my 30 pict-1 only to have a leak at the throttle shaft. It was only $40 to rebush so with that and the rebuild it's like new.
Buggirl, to answer the original question, if you have a german carb I'd rebuild and rebush (if needed). It sounds like the newer carbs coming out of Brazil are crap.

[buggirl]

ok, so my "28 pict" makes sense now, its a 6volt thermal choke...

some say the new 30's can/must be retrofitted with the 6v choke off my current carb; opinions...?

thanks
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'67 Hardtop

[bill may]

if running a 28pict and convert the car to 12volt the choke,electrical from 30pict-1 is interchangable. and other way around..

[buggirl]

thanks; car still and stays 6 volt; are the guys who say the 6v choke will adapt to the 30 carb right do you think?
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'67 Hardtop

[DesertBob]

I have a 28PICT on my 65 1200 and the 6V ceramic choke was too small to be replaced by a 12V one. Make sure before you convert to 12V. I live in So. Cal so a choke would be nice but not imparative. I just take my time when warming it up.
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All it takes is a little imagination, some mechanical ability, and neighbors who mind their own business

74 Super Beetle (German Look Project)
Full Flow 1776 with 36 Dells, 4 wheel drilled and slotted disc brakes, Porsche 7x17 Turbo Twists, Topline Maxx Struts, Camber kit, 7/8" Front Sway bar, Rear Sway bar, Urethane bushings all around.

[joemac]

More trivia:
The carb numbers designate the venturi size, in milimeters, ie:
28 series all have a 28 mm venturi.
30 have 30 mm, 34 have 34mm.
A cheap fix for leaking throttle shaft bushings is to take the arms off both ends, throttle actuating arm and accelerator pump arm, and carefully place a small amount of silicone spooge around the shaft, then allowing it to cure. Before re-installation, place an 8mm wave washer on the shaft, then the arms, washers and nuts. Make certain not to over-tighten the nuts, just snug them. Otherwise, the throttle will bind.

[buggirl]

ok, now we're REALLY confused...
just realized upon closer inspection that our 6volt 1200 has a "28 pict-1" , (not a 28 pict) carb, and on the opposite side, the face of the choke body says "12v" !!!!!!

what's going on? for sure the car is 6v. what are the consequences of this arrangement?

what if we just disconnect the electrical feed to the choke? will the car drive better but just be harder to start and take longer to warm up, or are there other worries/effects?

(p.s. don't say ask the previous owner; he's probably guilty...)

thanks
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'67 Hardtop

[MikeJ]

If the choke is 12v then I believe it would just take longer to open up fully on a 6v system. I wouldn't want to try a 6v choke on a 12v system though, that might burn out the metal in the choke faster.

It shouldn't actually hurt anything for it to be a 12v choke.

If you do decide to disconnect it, make sure you adjust the choke to full open even when cold so you won't over enrich your fuel mixture.

This will make startup and initial warmup of the car a little more difficult, but people do it all the time with dual carbs.
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1964 Beetle

[Richard Carey]

Hello everyone,

I rebuild Solex Carburetors (there is a link to my add at the bottom).

I would like to address a couple of the issues raised above.
First, you can make any single port carb (28 PCI, 28 Pict, 28 Pict 1, 30 Pict 1, 30 Pict 2 or the 30 Pict 3) work on any single port engine. For a variety of reasons, I recommend the original stock carb.

Second, in order to rebuild your 30+ year old carb correctly, you will most likely need to re-bush the throttle bushings. The original bushings were cast as part of the carb body. They are aluminum like the rest of the carb and therefore fairly soft. Years of the steel throttle shaft twisting away ever time you touch the gas will oval the hole out and you start getting air leaking in. This will make the carb hard or impossible to tune and cause all kinds of other problems like hesitations and poor mpg. In order to re-bush the throttle shafts, you will need to bring your carb to a machine shop where they can mill out the aluminum and insert new bushings (brass typically) and ream the bushing for the shaft size. We do provide this service.

Third, choke elements, 6 volt vs. 12 volt. Almost all the Solex carbs can be setup for 12 volt or 6 volt. The two exceptions are the 28 PCI (manual choke) and the early 28 Pict.
The early 28 Pict carbs have a smaller ceramic 6 volt choke element that works only in that carb. Otherwise the chokes are interchangeable.

Another common problem is a “stuck float” this is actually a stuck check valve. The float in the float bowl pushes up on the check valve when the float bowl is full. A small amount of dirt can cause this check valve to stick and not close. This can cause fuel spilling out of the carb, it can also cause gas to be forced into the crank case and “washing” the bearings of oil which in turn will cause the bearings to wear out very quickly. Another source for this problem can also be a cracked/leaking float. The float will fill with gas and won’t shut the check valve resulting in the same problems.

Hope this helps,
Richard
Chard’s Carbs
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=64882

[buguy]

I put on a 30 pict 1 on my 1200 and it runs great. I just took the guts out of my old choke and used them. Also I took the fuel cutoff out and cut the end of it off and put it back in the carb. I will say it doesnt help performance at all though.

[abdon]

The number of the carburetor is not the same as the venturi size, but the size of hole at the bottom of the carburetor. Venturi is the size of the smallest part of the carburetor. For instance in a 28 pict, the hole on the bottom is 28mm, the venturi 24mm.

The dreaded vacuum leak on the trottle shaft is not as dreary as most would lead you to believe. This used to be an old mechanic's trick; to squirt some carburetor cleaner on the shaft, point out the pickup on RPMs, and tell you that you needed a rebuild and that as luck would have it, he just had a spot open up. ALL carburetors leak here, even brand new ones. If there wasn't a clearance, the trottle would lock up on hot days (doesn't that sounds like fun). It is even less of an issue with the 28 series; unlike 30, 30/31, and 34 series ones, they are not designed to idle with the trottle fully closed (they don't have the hole on the throttle plate); compensating for trottle shaft leak is as simple as adjusting the iddle screw on the arm to raise the vacuum.

[6vE]

Hi Richard,

Do you sell individual floats? I had the problem with my (Brazilian) float leaking gas, (took me a minute, but I figured it out!). I couldn't find one anywhere so after some experimentation I sealed it with Superglue. It's holding so far, but what would you recommend?

Eric

[Richard Carey]

[abdon]

I should add that if I was buying a rebuilt carburetor that I would rather buy a rebushed carburetor. Yes I know the leak is not that significant on 28s, 30s, and 31s, but it is also true that it won't be getting any better. Once bushed the thing should last forever.

Richard, not trying to ask you to share any of your business secrets, but do you happen to know where I can get just the pump diaphrams by themselves? I have a good number of carburetors, and have extra gaskets, O-rings and seals from previous kits, but no diaphrams.

Another point I want to make. I have no idea why people bitch whine and moan about the Brosol 30/31. My bigest complaint is that the plug that holds the bearing for the accelerator pump no longer has a thread. If the carburetor is gummed to hell and back, getting that out is not as simple as screwing the piece out. Other than that:

- The shaft is bushed at the factory, no worries about that.
- While it shares the complexity of the 34Pic3, the smaller venturi ensures better vaccum.
- The aditional Power jet helps with fuel starvation on the high end.

On the ones I have rebuilt I have not seen indications of them being built any worse than anything else, and in fact most are tighter. For 1600cc and bellow I would rather go with the 30/31. It might shave a few ponies off the top but they will work optimally for far longer than the 34.