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Speedo needle removal... How to?
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bugzey
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 10:15 pm    Post subject: Speedo needle removal... How to? Reply with quote

I want to remove the needle from an early oval speedo...what is the best way to get it off without breaking it??

Thanks!! Think
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Blue Baron
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a good question because the old plastic becomes unbelievably brittle.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I find that when old plastic stuff is warm it is harder to break, may want to put it in the sun for a while right before working at it, I wouldnt try anything as drastic as a heat gun, maybe a hair drier on low if its not sunny this time of year where you are, also that chrome cap is always falling off so I would go ahead and remove it and reglue it with epoxy once you get the needle off, I would definately disassemble the speeedo down to the point where you can hold onto the magnet wheel thing that is behind the needle shaft while twisting the needle, also may want to mark the needle position somehow on the magnet drum so you get the "0 MPH" position right, you dont want to have to be pulling the needle off and on a bunch of times trying to get it to read right, (note: NOT responsible for any broken speedos if you try any of this ! )
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MJMarkham
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

once you get it off, please dont drop it. I shatterer one that I painstakenly took off by dropping it. Sad
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BEFORE you pry up on the back of the needle, cover the speedo with a rag or something so when the needle does pop off it doesn't go flying. I used a small wonderbar on mine right under the center of the needle "hub" and applied very gentle pressure. Good luck.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I restore the clear speedos and will be happy to post a pic of the "tool" I use to pull them. However, I will say that I have yet to put an original clear needle back on. My Zarwerks parnter Jim casts them in clear resin and I always use new needles on all restos. They require a bit of finishing out of the mold, and then the white stripe needs to be painted on the backside. I use magnifying glasses to finish them, did you ever see Toy Story and the guy who repaired the dolls??? It can get like that sometimes.

I'm leaving for the holidays tomorrow AM and don't have time to get my speedo tools out and post a pic, but I will tell you that the tools are made from an old fork with 2 prongs cut off (and it is bent in a big way), a small piece of wood and a large flat blade screwdriver....

Heres a pic of a needle on a zwitter speedo.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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johnshenry
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

billmetric wrote:
I find that when old plastic stuff is warm it is harder to break, may want to put it in the sun for a while right before working at it, I wouldnt try anything as drastic as a heat gun, maybe a hair drier on low if its not sunny this time of year where you are, also that chrome cap is always falling off so I would go ahead and remove it and reglue it with epoxy once you get the needle off, I would definately disassemble the speeedo down to the point where you can hold onto the magnet wheel thing that is behind the needle shaft while twisting the needle, also may want to mark the needle position somehow on the magnet drum so you get the "0 MPH" position right, you dont want to have to be pulling the needle off and on a bunch of times trying to get it to read right, (note: NOT responsible for any broken speedos if you try any of this ! )


NO, do not use heat. The slightest heat will curl the needle and it will be real hard to get it back. Ask me how I know.

Only the earliest clear needle speedos (Zwitter speedos and maybe a few months past that) actually were all plastic including the part that goes down over the spindle. You will crack this kind apart trying to pull it off, GAURANTEED. These had the glued on chrome cap (that usually fell off).
The later, and more common ones have a solid "hub" that includes the chrome cone (polished alumimum on some, chrome plated brass cast on others). This hub is actually what gets slid down over the spindle. The hub then goes all the way through the needle via a larger hole.

As for the "resting" position of the needle, it is typically about 3-5 "mph" below the "0" pin. That is if you lift the needle end up, and lift it over the pin, hold the speedo face up, that is where the pin will rest. Thus, about 3-5 mph of "preload" on the needle when it is on the pin. Good idea to check that position before you pull the neelde, BUT, on a brittle needle you might very easily break it if you try to lift it up (another reason to repalce the needle).

I actually calibrate my restos with a known revolution test, but that 3-5 mph under the pin method usually is pretty accurate.
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MJMarkham
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



very nice work... will you sell replacement needles alone?
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I can sell replacement needles alone, finished and with paint for $35.

e-mail me at [email protected].
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I found the time...

Here's the tools to remove the needle. The cutout in the "bridge" (that goes across the face of the housing after the bezel and glass is removed) Gives some space for the needle to pop off without breaking. Some of these needles are on REAL tight and take quite a bit of pulling to get them to pop off. But this setup allows you to lever pull real hard, straight up, and not risk bending the spindle. It has worked for me every time for about 4-5 years now...

Putting a new needle on? I usually just give it a light tap down with a small hammer and wooden dowel on the cone. Want to be real sure, dap a TINY (and I mean tiny) bit of JB weld on the spindle first....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
Ok, I found the time...

Here's the tools to remove the needle. The cutout in the "bridge" (that goes across the face of the housing after the bezel and glass is removed) Gives some space for the needle to pop off without breaking. Some of these needles are on REAL tight and take quite a bit of pulling to get them to pop off. But this setup allows you to lever pull real hard, straight up, and not risk bending the spindle. It has worked for me every time for about 4-5 years now...

Putting a new needle on? I usually just give it a light tap down with a small hammer and wooden dowel on the cone. Want to be real sure, dap a TINY (and I mean tiny) bit of JB weld on the spindle first....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Am I the only one here who finds this setup amusing?
That is a very imaginative approach. Nice work John.
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MJMarkham
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

its things like this that make this site what it is...

When you see it like that it makes a lot of sense...
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Tbone
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 8:08 am    Post subject: speedo needle removal Reply with quote

In VW enthusiast homes hither and yon I here.... "I thought we had more forks than this! " Necessity is definitely the mother of invention. Thanks for broaching the subject bugzey,and the clever tip Johnshenry.

Happy Holidays everyone.

Ted
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

or you could do the ol' custom jobby if you break it. like I did Rolling Eyes

'Custom' crazy glued drill bit needle Smile

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Woody wrote:
johnshenry wrote:
Ok, I found the time...

Here's the tools to remove the needle. The cutout in the "bridge" (that goes across the face of the housing after the bezel and glass is removed) Gives some space for the needle to pop off without breaking. Some of these needles are on REAL tight and take quite a bit of pulling to get them to pop off. But this setup allows you to lever pull real hard, straight up, and not risk bending the spindle. It has worked for me every time for about 4-5 years now...

Putting a new needle on? I usually just give it a light tap down with a small hammer and wooden dowel on the cone. Want to be real sure, dap a TINY (and I mean tiny) bit of JB weld on the spindle first....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Am I the only one here who finds this setup amusing?
That is a very imaginative approach. Nice work John.


I remember hearing something about using a fork to remove the needles, and came up with the bends and wood "bridge" on my own. I am told the "factory" removal tool is a steel bridge and a knuckle fork puller that you tighten a screw down on to pull off the needle. Would be fin to make, but this one works just fine.

Just hope we never have more than 7 over for dinner now........
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
......
As for the "resting" position of the needle, it is typically about 3-5 "mph" below the "0" pin. That is if you lift the needle end up, and lift it over the pin, hold the speedo face up, that is where the pin will rest. Thus, about 3-5 mph of "preload" on the needle when it is on the pin. Good idea to check that position before you pull the needle, BUT, on a brittle needle you might very easily break it if you try to lift it up (another reason to replace the needle).

I actually calibrate my restos with a known revolution test, but that 3-5 mph under the pin method usually is pretty accurate.


I have since discovered that this 3-5 pre-load is not correct, see:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3825469&highlight=needle#3825469

Correct pre-load I have found since I built the calibration setup is probably closer to 6-8mph on the face, but every speedo is slightly different. Just FYI.....
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Woody wrote:
johnshenry wrote:
Ok, I found the time...

Here's the tools to remove the needle. The cutout in the "bridge" (that goes across the face of the housing after the bezel and glass is removed) Gives some space for the needle to pop off without breaking. Some of these needles are on REAL tight and take quite a bit of pulling to get them to pop off. But this setup allows you to lever pull real hard, straight up, and not risk bending the spindle. It has worked for me every time for about 4-5 years now...

Putting a new needle on? I usually just give it a light tap down with a small hammer and wooden dowel on the cone. Want to be real sure, dap a TINY (and I mean tiny) bit of JB weld on the spindle first....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Am I the only one here who finds this setup amusing?
That is a very imaginative approach. Nice work John.

i bet his wife doesnt think its amusing after destroying one of her forks
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Knowing John I wouldn't be surprised if he had actual CAD prints for that tool. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:36 pm    Post subject: Speedo needle removal Reply with quote

Mostly, I have just used my fingers - and care. Have also used a household fork but did not bend it so creatvely as JH.

Matthew ross
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should have looked this up before I started to painstakingly restore my brand new August 59 speedo for my 60! I just experienced the heartbreak of the brittle needle crumbling in my fingers AFTER it survived unscathed while delicately and simultaneously brutally popping the beautifully machined shiny metal nipple off the tiny clockwork post with a blinds-shattering crash as it shot across the room. I then flipped on the switch in my brain that stored model airplane gluing techniques and pieced that little jigsaw puzzle back together again. For a moment my index finger and thumb were a part of that puzzle and I'm typing with a band-aid now as a lasting momento of the supergluedectecomy I performed removing the needle from both of my fingers. Not a bad job, but Sherlock Holmes would immediately deem this needle a Ming vase that was removed from its pedestal by gravity and a cat. It was a dramatic rollercoaster ride of emotion in Herr klochmacher's verkruum das nacht.

Anyhoo. I noticed Sir John Henry's post from 2006 that he was casting new needles out of resin. Splendid! I would do it myself but $35 seems too reasonable. Adjusting for the deflation of the dollar, I assume it would be $4 in today's money? Is John Henry still an approachable gentleman about these things or has his online business skyrocketted him into preoccupation? I'm clearly being a little silly, but seriously, Mr. Henry, if you are still willing to cast a clear needle I would wear one as a badge of lumenescent honor every time I feel the urge to inhale gas fumes after the sun has set. I've owned my '60 for 14 of my 36 years and have daydreamed of what the cockpit will look like with a clear needle. Now that I have one and have seen how awesome it is, I'd like to go ahead and get a shiny new one to see what it looked like off the line in there!

In summary, Mr. Henry, I'd love to commision your craftsmanship so I can see how fast I'm blasting down the highway in style!

Your pal,
Jon Darby
Seattle, Washington
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