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Barbed fitting on a Solex
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Mal evolent
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 4:01 pm    Post subject: Barbed fitting on a Solex Reply with quote

I read about this on the forum a while back, finally got around to trying it.

Acquired a 1/4" hose X 1/16" NPT barbed fitting for a whopping $4.06

Acquired a 1/16"-27 NPT National Pipe Taper High Speed Steel Pipe Tap for $5.90 through Amazon.com

tried it out on my spare 34-PICT3

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Everything you need to do the job:

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thread just started:

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fully seated by hand only. four threads in when cranked down

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take the top off and clean the aluminum bits out of the bowl, you can't keep that crud out by holding the carb inlet down. and use a larger tap handle; you have to beef it a bit.
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Nicksan
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats a good idea. When I rebuilt my carb I pulled the hose off the press fitting and it came out on the hose, LOL.....
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Lionhart94010
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great Post!

Thanks for the writ up, spec’s and where to buy :0)
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jharte
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Absolutely worth the trouble. Nice job.

A couple of weeks ago I installed a fresh engine in my Baja. I used the carb that came with the engine. I didn't check the pressed in fuel line fitting and sure enough it vibrated loose and popped off while driving home from work. All of my hoses have clamps but this was the pressed in side of the fitting. I was one of the RARE lucky ones who's engine didn't catch fire! Now secured with a safety wire. IMO the barbed fitting is the best idea.

Jharte
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jharte wrote:
Absolutely worth the trouble. Nice job.

A couple of weeks ago I installed a fresh engine in my Baja. I used the carb that came with the engine. I didn't check the pressed in fuel line fitting and sure enough it vibrated loose and popped off while driving home from work. All of my hoses have clamps but this was the pressed in side of the fitting. I was one of the RARE lucky ones who's engine didn't catch fire! Now secured with a safety wire. IMO the barbed fitting is the best idea.

Jharte



OWWWW, REAL LUCKY!!
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pippinr
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I knew a girl named Barb once, but she didn't fit on a Solex.

BAM!
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birddog1148
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good post, already got the carb out to rebuild, so I'll do this as well Cool
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red caddy
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a tip. Pipe threads ARE tapered.

Prepare the hole with a tapered pipe thread reamer, it makes the threading process a bunch easier and prevents cracking the boss when you "beef" on the tap handle.

Works great on all cast iron or cast steel or cast aluminum parts. Use the "material" appropriate cutting fluid too. You can screw it in OR screw it up, your choice.

Paul
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RailGuy
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

idk if im missing something, did you make a larger barb or did you have a smooth fitting before and changed it too a barb?

I just got my new 34/3 and it came stock with a barbed fitting.


My mistake, i missed the Solex part.

Mines EMPI.
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monomanx
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a great Thread. I do not have anything pitch in but I think you tapped into something good.


Seriously though, this is a great tip. I will check my carbs during the down season!
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also a good idea to use non-hardening Prematex for the final assembly.>>>Dan
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anybody else done this? Seems like a good idea. I'm a little concerned about tapping the screw threads and doing it correctly as well as finding the right fitting. In another thread, someone mentioned copper gets brittle, does brass? They suggested steel or coated steal.
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Last edited by Pinetops on Fri Sep 05, 2014 6:14 am; edited 1 time in total
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Brian
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do it slowly and softly or you'll crack it.
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Mal evolent
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

a thing many people miss: it's called a TAP for a reason

on a straight thread tap, all the cutting is done in the first diameter of the tap. the first 1/4" of a 1/4" tap, the first 1/8" of a 4-40. the tapered threads tap, the straight threads just guide the tapered threads

it is not called a "you stick that monkeyflogger in a drill and get some RPM going. puh-duction! that's what it's all about"

it is not called a "you put a cheater bar on that son of an itch and teach it the meaning of the word TORQUE, son!"

it's called a tap. you operate it by tapping. 10 degree turn, back off 5 degrees, 10 degree turn. use those microscopic chisel edges as chisels, because that's what they are.

same thing for taking the tap out. it hangs up, don't twist it. tap it. hole is full of tiny wedge shaped pigtails and microscopic chisels. if you try to torque them out you just wedge them in.

it's called a TAP for a reason

I let my new coworkers break ten taps before noon. Then I point out I have tapped 40 holes in armor plated steel with one tap. Then I teach them how to tap. When you let them prove conclusively that their way isn't working, they tend to listen to your way.
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HERC
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mal. Do I have to do all that if I wanna tap a chick, or can I just put my monkeyflogger in her. Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mal evolent wrote:

it's called a tap. you operate it by tapping. 10 degree turn, back off 5 degrees, 10 degree turn. use those microscopic chisel edges as chisels, because that's what they are.

same thing for taking the tap out. it hangs up, don't twist it. tap it. hole is full of tiny wedge shaped pigtails and microscopic chisels.

Yupper, don't forget cutting fluid Wink
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you all think of this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nickel-Plated-Brass-Fittin...mp;vxp=mtr
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of all fittings, why that one? Are you really going to notice the nickel plating on a show car? Probably not. Just go you your local auto parts store or plumbing supplier and get a standard brass fitting for a buck.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think where is going on this is 1/16 inch NPT pipe thread is about .100th or 3mm smaller in diameter than 1/8 inch NPT thread thread... Real issue may be finding 1/16 NPT tap...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/zex-ns6584?seid=srese1&gclid=CPOK0bzx68ACFRFcfgodZCcArg

Or maybe not....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread

See "Table of standard sizes".

Dale
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Mal evolent
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

when I put a forum on my web site I'm going to close threads after a month.

the link for the barbed fitting in the initial post still works, but now it costs $3.58, down from $4.06

the link for the barbed fitting in the initial post still works.

as Dale aid, it's about diameter. the 1/16 NPT tap works without drilling the original Solex hole.
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