replacing fuel line: question I don't see mentioned

[dubstar]

I am in the middle of replacing the fuel lines in my 90...so far, so good

however, the clamp that is on the short section of rubber hose between the plastic firewall fitting and rigid plastic fuel line that runs from the filter is impossible to get off...it's very hard to reach and even though I can get my hand up there, I'm having difficulty getting the leverage needed to remove it

my question is this...since I plan on bypassing the plastic firewall fitting and no longer using it, can I cut through the rigid plastic fuel line right after the clamped hose I am having difficulty removing and attach the new rubber hose from the engine compartment there, or will this potentially result in a crushed or split rigid plastic fuel line? I am talking a difference of a 1/2 inch or less...

thanks
_________________
1963 Type II Kombi
1977 Type I Fuel Injection

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"you could transport really tall things too, like a giraffe"

[bjrogers86auto]

I'm not 100% sure but with a pair of sidecutters you should be able to cut the hard fuel line and connect your flex fuel line on it.

I somehow managed to get mine off and replace that ridiculous little short piece of hose with a new piece. That was before I knew about the problems with the firewall plastic piece. I inspected mine at the time and it was fine. Still is.

The fuel line just slides over it and is clamped. My Dad always said..."you're not holding your tongue right" when you couldn't get something...you might want to try adjusting your tongue placement...or cut the hose.

Keep your eyes closed!
Brian.

[dubstar]

thanks!
_________________
1963 Type II Kombi
1977 Type I Fuel Injection

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http://web.stagram.com/n/john_aka_dubstar/


"you could transport really tall things too, like a giraffe"

[dobryan]

There is nothing magical about the hard plastic line. It should be fine to cut it and put the new fuel line over the new end.
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[?Waldo?]

A sharp utility blade will cut through the plastic line easily.
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I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site.

[dubstar]

thanks...I'll try to get the clamp off first, but I don't think it's going to happen
_________________
1963 Type II Kombi
1977 Type I Fuel Injection

http://instagram.com/john_aka_dubstar/
http://web.stagram.com/n/john_aka_dubstar/


"you could transport really tall things too, like a giraffe"

[James 93SLC]

[bjrogers86auto]

They might have changed that line on later models but I have changed the fuel lines at both ends of that hard line and there was no buldge at all.

I'm not saying it's not on some models...but not mine.

Brian.

[James 93SLC]

[dubstar]

"There is a factory bulge at the end of the hard line"

there was no bulge on the return line, which I replaced yesterday and seems to be the same exact tubing...
_________________
1963 Type II Kombi
1977 Type I Fuel Injection

http://instagram.com/john_aka_dubstar/
http://web.stagram.com/n/john_aka_dubstar/


"you could transport really tall things too, like a giraffe"

[dubstar]

there was also no bulge where the feed line meets the short section of rubber hose coming from the fuel filter...
_________________
1963 Type II Kombi
1977 Type I Fuel Injection

http://instagram.com/john_aka_dubstar/
http://web.stagram.com/n/john_aka_dubstar/


"you could transport really tall things too, like a giraffe"

[bjrogers86auto]

Hard to figure these things out sometimes. Tencent probably has the answer.

Fuel pressure isnt that high as far as I know...these lines just slide together but at the fuel injector the nipple is ribbed. (not for pleasure)

I haven't had any leak issues other than old cracked lines which have all been replaced.

I say they slide together...not easily. The friction fit seems almost enough. Like the clamp is there for decoration and frustration(when removing)

Brian.

[tencentlife]

I haven't seen a beaded end on one of those plastic lines yet, either. A bead isn't necessary for a secure attachment there, but I would say having at least 2" of engagement is a good idea.

I wouldn't cut the plastic line, though, in this case, I would just cut the rubber hose you're going to replace, and bring the end of the plastic line down where I can get at it. I want to keep all of that plastic line I can because of the way I've been reworking that area. I shitcan the plastic firewall fitting, not on the rationale that they break (I haven't been able to deliberately break one in my hands yet), but to eliminate two more junctures in the plumbing. I go below and loosen the clamp that secures the plastic line to the chassis down where it emerges from the hole in the crossbeam, and slide it back far enough that it comes thru the engine cowl with a couple inches projecting into the engine bay. I add a longer piece of rubber hose down at the fliter to compensate.

Then I make a little ABS flange that copies the flange of the firewall fitting, but a rubber grommet that fits that hole would do instead. My flange thing looks like this:

The plastic line comes thru the cowl, and I slide the rubber hose onto it several inches so the rubber goes right on thru the cowl and cushions the plastic line, along with my little flange or grommet. A single clamp secures the rubber to the plastic line within the engine bay where it's easy to get at.

A little silicone spray or WD40 on the inside of hoses and on fitting nipples always makes it easier to slide these things together without it being a fight. The stuff hangs around just long enough to make it easier to get them back apart again, too, if you're still working out lengths and such.
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Experience is death to doctrine.

[?Waldo?]

I've replaced quite a few fuel lines on both 1.9 and 2.1 engines and have never come across any flares in the plastic, ever.
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I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site.

[James 93SLC]

[Wildthings]

Steel line doesn't burn which makes it a better option in my mind.

This picture is of the fuel lines on my Multi with a 2.2 Subaru conversion. Both the plastic lines, supply and return, have been replaced with steel lines and connect to the rubber hoses as high in the engine compartment as possible. If I get a fire, the fire will not be able to work its way forward along the steel lines to the gas tank as it would with the original plastic lines, perhaps saving my van. Also with the high entry point into the engine bay, fuel is unlikely to be fed to the fire by gravity as it might with lower line routing.

[bjrogers86auto]

See...toldya he would know.