Rust Assessment

[MajorPIle]

1973 Bug, it sat in a yard for about 8-10 years before I got it so it was exposed to the elements, but I do live in Central California.

I've named the location on the images for all of the rust areas I've found while removing the seam sealer.

I'm going to remove the C-Pillar areas today so I can see behind and figure out how bad things are.

Based on these pics so far, how do I know what I can repair and what needs to be completely replaced. For example, the passenger side heater channel? The c-pillars?

Passenger Heater Channel near back seat

inside driver side heater channel

Passenger rear fender under rear window vent/scoop

Passenger Side Heater Channel (Interior Side)

Driver side, exterior under jack point

C Pillar

[busdaddy]

You California people have no idea what rust is, what I see there requires cutting out a few small patches for replacement, no need to change a whole panel just for one or two little holes. The less you disturb the better everything fits together later.

Wanna see some rust?, have a look at this: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=786582
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[TDCTDI]

[MajorPIle]

[MajorPIle]

[Eric&Barb]

Only way to get rid of that rust for good is to either remove the undersides of the heat channels to clean it all out or just replace the channels outright.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[VW_Jimbo]

[Jhp212]

Are you looking to make a driver or a show car? I’d bet most of the cars running around out there even in California sport rust holes like that but since you have the body and pan separated now is the time to address this. I agree with taking the bottom plates to assess the rust and clean it out as it looks like most of your holes are where the bottom plate meet the rest of the channel. After completing replacing both heater channels, both rear cross members, and repairing front bulkhead i can tell you that it is a ton of time consuming work! To me it looks like yours may be a candidate of patching instead of a complete replacement. Before cutting things out please post more pictures especially where they meet the cross members and front bulkhead. Post the rest of the car too. Also, how well do the doors open and close and do they sag ?
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1971 Super Beetle

[MajorPIle]

It took me a few weeks but I have an update. I figured I have nothing to lose by cutting away the rust on the inside of the bug, and when I repair it, I don't have to be perfect because ultimately it will be covered.

I used a die grinder and a cutting wheel and I cut out an area in each c-pillar. I'm guessing the water got in through the rear window seal and settled in at the C-pillar because there is foam and there is another piece of metal that runs horizontally to the vertical C-pillar.

Passenger side c-pillar

Outside of cut-out piece:

Inside of cut-out piece

Where the rust ate through on the rear window area passenger side:

Driver Side C-pillar foam/rust

Driver side c-pillar, here you can see the horizontal piece of metal that along with the foam, I think, helped trap the water. On the driver's side I didn't know that was there and I cut it away:

Passenger's side:

And here is a view of some rust from the inside and outside. This is over the passenger rear fender.

View from the outside;

View from the inside:
Holes from the picture above are circled in red

More Pics:

And here's where I cut to access that area

[Eric&Barb]

Good job!!!!

Personally would have opened up much much bigger areas. As you say they will be covered, and you do not want to do this again!!
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[MajorPIle]

[Eric&Barb]

Do beware that the rust converters can only convert so deep into the rust. When, not if, later the paint and rust converter cracks the rust will blossom once again in there. Plus the untreated rust will act like a express subway under the rust converter.

Dremil with the very thin slitting discs do work well to take out big chunks for a lot easier cleaning out of the rust. Plus once cleaned you can spray in a cold galvanizing primer to both seal and act as a anode to keep any rust from galloping along later in there.

Airgas welding supply shops sell a flat matte zinc primer that has 93% zinc content. Anything that does not list or has much less than 85% zinc content is a waste of $$.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[VW_Jimbo]

You need to remove as must rust as possible. That rust converter stuff works…mmm….ok at best. I tried to rely on it a decade plus ago. Was under impressed by the lack luster results. I absolutely hated having to cut up perfectly painted panels! Talk about losing money. Damn that hurt!

So now, I use a borescope camera. Drill a 1/2” hole and go searching the interior cavities! Once found. Either a bath in Ospho (lots of Ospho) or full removal. No covering stuff up!

My 2 cents!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[MajorPIle]

[Buggeee]

Congratulations Major Things look really good in there. Enjoy the build.
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