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Westfalia rear fluorescent light - big mistake
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JDub113
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 6:59 pm    Post subject: Westfalia rear fluorescent light - big mistake Reply with quote

Ok. Here it goes. I straight F'ed my original light fixture. Take a look at my avatar and you will know know why I originally picked it.

The light didnt work, the ballast or whatever it was was not transfering the current to complete the circuit. Like a jackass, I went to home depot to get the 7/8ths hose to replace the oil breather tube and figured I'll swap the guts of a cool LED light into the vintage Hella.

I worked. I slaved. I made a beautiful piece of crap. Its 110v for the house and not 12v. I am posting with embarrasment and also asking if there anything I can salvage so its not a total loss, but I don't think there is a way to revert this to 12v and I'll have to start over with a new/used fixture. Damn thing works great too. Embarassed

If anybody has a spare, send me an email or any other ideas you may have.

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Channing81
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It Could be simple. That big box is an inverter that transforms 110 AC to DC. Sometimes they have labels. The bus outputs ~12V DC. Most of the times the LEDs need 5V DC, but you have to figure that out. Are there any specs in the instructions?
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Last edited by Channing81 on Sat Feb 28, 2015 9:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get hundreds of different LED bulbs. Find one that will operate on 12v and has the base style you need. The wiring should be dead simple.

Here are two suppliers, there are others out there as well:

https://www.1000bulbs.com/?gclid=CjwKEAiA68WnBRCJx...oCSTHw_wcB

https://www.superbrightleds.com/?gclid=CjwKEAiA68W...oCvo7w_wcB
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tristessa
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Channing81 wrote:
It Could be simple. That big box is an inverter that transforms 110 AC to DC. Sometimes the have labels.

Heck with labels, wire that thing to a wall plug and measure the voltage coming OUT of the box. If it's 12V you're golden.

I did a mod similar to my dead florescent, but used three LEDBERG strips (one package) from Ikea with a simple off/on switch. A lot of the Ikea LED stuff is 12V with an external transformer...
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Channing81
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's what I would do, but you need to be confident in your wiring for 110V. It hurts a little bit. Then hook the multimeter up to the output.
I ordered some LEDs online and made my own.
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JDub113
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There were no specifics in the instructions. I'll hook it up and figure out how to use my multimeter...
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PITApan
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using these for general lighting"

http://www.amazon.com/Alpena-77254-White-12-LED-Dome/dp/B00D1SWH4A

If I can find them I can give you the module dimensions. Very bright. Two would be a whole lot of light.
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JDub113
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I learned how to use the multimeter, well as much as a man can learn in 5 minutes on the internet.

So say its wired to the 110v, do I test with the AC or DC portion of the multimeter and will I fry that little board when I test it the wrong way?

Can I just hook it up to my bus battery and see if its 12v on the other side? Seems safer and then I'll know I can't buy a different strip for it. That should work right?

eh.

I'll also mention that the LED strip is a solid plate that I actually screwed into place.
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be careful!

LEDs are DC devices, not AC. They could be wired in groups such that they could operate on AC, but without looking at what you bought, can't say for sure.

Contrary to popular opinion, LEDs are current dependent, not voltage. That's to say, the LED diodes themselves don't like constant voltage drive. Thus, connecting them across a car battery could result in impressive flash bulbs.

Do the voltage measurements and report back. If you get no readings on your meter on DC, try AC. Report back on what you find.

Most likely, the unit you bought converts 120 vac to a constant current output to drive series connected LEDS. It's possible to re-engineer something that would do the same thing with 12-14 vdc input, but is most likely not trivial.

Plug the original unit into 120 vac and count the number of LEDs that light up.
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Bala
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want to "start over", here's an option.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6410396#6410396
Been working great for a few years now.
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bala wrote:
If you want to "start over", here's an option.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6410396#6410396
Been working great for a few years now.


Agreed. Everyone on here has done some bone headed stuff.

The best solution: Step away from the project. Get over the screw up. And start again. Don't make it worse by forcing it. Relax and start over when you are ready.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a roll of in-series warm (3300K) LEDs from eBay for about $15, removed the fluorescent guts from mine, used an old switch from a broken portable air compressor and adhered 3 rows of those LEDs to the metal plate under the lens. Works very well. Then again, the OO of my '75 Westy also have me a totally MOS, in the original box, never used floured ent light as a backup. I think I prefer the instant brightness of the LEDs though.

Try those warm LEDs and a self contained toggle switch...maybe $20 in parts and 1-2 hours of assembly...you'll love it!

Good luck!

- Doug Smile
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I'm a little late to the party-

I use the 12v LED "ribbon" you can get on eBay for engine compartment lighting. It's cool, because you can cut it every inch (on the quality stuff; on the cheap stuff, you can cut it every three inches,) and it's available in many colors.

I like the expensive ones from litegear.com because I've used them in 30 amp runs for eight hours straight off a 12v deep cycle setup with 100% success. I can't say the same for the el-cheapo eBay knockoffs. With my engine compartment lights I've accidentally left them on overnight with no trouble, and I couldn't hear a difference in cranking speed on the next day's first cold start.

Robbie


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Help an old man understand. Did I read your problem right?

You bought a new LED fixture then used the guts to convert your existing Westphalia light to LED without realizing the new one was for 110V AC and now you can't go backwards? So, in this universe you are looking for either a way to make the new light work on 12V DC, or find a used one to roll back to what you had before?

If so I agree that you need to step back and decide what you want. Both a LED or a used original light are easily obtained. O'Reilly shows these and many are in stock in the stores in your area. Maybe one of these models might work http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=interior+light

FWIW all of us have done things like that, in fact I just spent considerable time getting a permit from the state to trap a squirrel that has been eating everything in sight. One condition was that it be destroyed. Well, how do you un-destroy a squirrel, and roll that back when you realize it was a mistake? You should feel fortunate it was just a light you destroyed. I think I got my squirrel covered and the light seems really easy to fix compared to the problem with the squirrel so if you take a step back you'll decide how you want to handle it - I am sure you can if you haven't already figured it out. And for those of you who wonder how to un-destroy a squirrel you destroyed, I can show you a way but it won't be measurable in this world, at least not yet.

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JDub113
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am starting over with a "new" flourescent light. Mine never worked so I probably won't do the LED thing for a while. The LED one I made has been wired and will have to accompany a workbench in my garage in the future.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good solution. There should be some RV store near you. Drop in and see what they have. They may have something perfect for your needs. A good LED would give you much more battery life than a florescent.
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duh! The obvious answer is licensed squirrels lighting candles everywhere. How did you not know that?
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