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16 inch wheel conversions
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gator70
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 3:12 pm    Post subject: 16 inch wheel conversions Reply with quote

I have followed many of the 16 inch wheel conversions. I understand about the desired offsets, and the 14 mm holes for the studs. I understand the nut seat issues. What I have not understood is what spacers are required.

I just purchased 16 X 7 VW after market wheels with a ET38. I have a 1989 syncro.

What tire should I use?

Will I need spacers?

The center hole is big enough at over 62 mm. The seats are the tapered ones. The stud holes are 14 mm.

Thanks for the advice.
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riceye
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are the tires I used on GoWesty! 16" wheels:

Fuzion HRI
Size: 225/60 HR16
UTQG: 98H SL 400 A A
Max load: 1653 lbs.
Max pressure: 44 psi
Tread depth: 11/32"
Weight: 27 lbs.
Rim width: 6-8"
Measured rim width: 6.5"
Section width: 9"
Tread width: 7.8"
Diameter: 26.6"
Revs per mile: 783
Price: $58 with road hazard

Compared to a recommended tire:
Yokohama Y356
Size: 185/ R14
Load rating: C
Max load: 1600 lbs.
Max pressure: 50 psi
Tread depth: 11/32"
Weight: 23 lbs.
Rim width range: 5-6"
Measured rim width: 5.5"
Section width: 7.3"
Tread width: 5.3"
Diameter: 25.7"
Revs per mile: 808
Price: $65 with road hazard

My speedo now reads 3 mph low at 70 mph, and the sliding door clears by 1/4 - 3/8".

I crossed the Albemarle Sound on North Carolina hwy 64 last Friday on the way to Cape Hatteras Nat'l Seashore. The crosswinds were a steady 35 - 40 mph. These bridges rise to at least 40 feet above the water. Both hands on the wheel, for sure, but no white knuckles!

Slainte,
Ric
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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have the wheels in hand? If so, install one on the front. Do you have enough clearance (2mm is a safe minimum)? Now look up the section width of the tire you plan on running. Figure out how much the tire will bulge from the rim. For example, your wheels are speced at 7" wide but if you measure the actual width, it will be closer to 8" wide. So, lets say your tire has a section width of 9". Subtract your tire section width from your actual wheel width (one inch). Now devide that in half (half of one inch). So now you know that your tire will bulge one half inch past the rim. Look at your suspension with the wheel mounted. Do you have enough clearance for that added half inch of tire? If need to, make a cardboard cutout of the tire profile. Then place it in the wheel and look for any clearance issues.

I'm pretty darn sure that a 38mm offset will work on the front and rear of a Syncro with no problems (no spacers) but best check it out first to be sure.
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Gauche1968
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2007 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I crossed the Albemarle Sound on North Carolina hwy 64 last Friday on the way to Cape Hatteras Nat'l Seashore. The crosswinds were a steady 35 - 40 mph. These bridges rise to at least 40 feet above the water. Both hands on the wheel, for sure, but no white knuckles!

Slainte,
Ric[/quote]

I remember driving over that bridge at night in a driving rainstorm in a 1992 Jetta. It felt as if I was driving over the open ocean. Absolutely terrifying! Shocked
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goffoz
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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2007 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a stock 86 syncro GL....soon to be subified Very Happy
I run cooper discovery's at 225x75x16's outside dia is 28.5
on mercedes CLK 16x7 alloys with et 37
no spacers....
so far no rubbing issues or any interference problems
I know two people with the same set up....and they get out in the rough stuff ....no problems


Last edited by goffoz on Fri May 16, 2008 7:52 am; edited 1 time in total
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16CVs
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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 11:38 pm    Post subject: Atiwe Reply with quote

Is anyone out there running the 'Atiwe" 16 " alloys. These seem to be a Tristar option only.
I have only sen them on a Tristar brochure. They are 16 x 7 . And have a keyhole type of slot in them.
I would guess they would take 215/70's or better. Any comments will be appreciated.

Stacy
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

> What tire should I use?

if you go with a BFG AT KO in 215x70/16 with has 743 rotations per mile, your gearing will be 10% taller than stock.

I do not recommend taller gearing than that unless you are prepared to regear your transmission.

so look for tires that have no less than 743 rotations per mile.

the claimed dimension in inches is not accurate for comparison as the stated dimension is NOT the rolling diameter.

if you go with a BFG AT KO in 225x70/16 your gearing will be 12% taller than stock, and that tire has 730 rotations per mile

if you go with a BFG AT KO in 235x70/16 your gearing will be 15% tall as that tire has just 715 rotations.. I do not recommend this tire, it is likely to rub.
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16CVs
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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 11:26 pm    Post subject: 16 keyhole Reply with quote

So would a 215 65r16 keep my gearing stock ? This thing is adog to get rolling sometimes as it is.
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the tire I would put on a Syncro with stock gearing:
BFGoodrich AT KO in 215/70RR16, rotations per mile: 743
this tire produces gearing that is taller than stock by 10%

> would a 215 65r16 keep my gearing stock ?

There is no 16" tire that will keep your gearing stock.

You need to know rotations per mile to calculate effect on gearing..

for example
Fuzion HRI in 225/60 HR16, rotations per mile: 783
this tire produces gearing that is taller than stock by 5%

BFGoodrich AT KO in 225/70RR16, rotations per mile: 730
this tire produces gearing that is taller than stock by 12%

Cooper discovery's at 225x75x16's, rotations per mile: 708
this tire produces gearing that is taller than stock by 16%


the gearing calculation is:
stock rotations of 819 divided by
rotations of tire you want to consider,
minus 1 = percentage

so for the BFGoodrich AT KO in 215/70RR16, with 743 rotations per mile:

819/743-1=10%
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kanito
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I happen to come by a set of 16 "borbett type E rims. . No mods nesesery except for a bit of grinding of the front upper
'knuckle". they look great. i"ll post pics soon
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VWhead
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I still have stock gears with 225 75 16's and have no power problems what so ever and still able to crawl in granny gear.Keep in mind there's a 1.8T under the hood.
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hiram6
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll chime in here with a tire that never seems to get a mention, but I think it is the ideal Vanagon 16 inch tire unless you have to deal with wintry conditions.

On my Westy with 16 inch CLK wheels, I have a set of Falkens, model ZE-912, with a load index of 99. Size is 215/60-16. My revs per mile are 808.

Great road manners, super solid and stable compared to my previous tire/wheel combination. Good wet or dry performance, can't comment on their winter performance since my van sits out that kind of weather.
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jfroldan
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 8:09 am    Post subject: BBS Audi mesh wheels Reply with quote

Hi,

I have an extra set of BBS Audi mesh wheels in size 16x7 et35
Do I need spacers for my 87 syncro?

I was planning on using the Geolandar AT-S in 215-60(or 65)-16

Stock gears, stock engine...

thanks

JF
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Audi rims typically have a center hole not big enough to slide over the rear axle stub and the front grease cap. I don't know about the BBS rims but it is something to investigate now.
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

a syncro doens't have a front grease cap

they will quite likely fit
but be mindful of the Ball seat size in the lug nut.. Audi uses small ball seats.

see Loogy for proper lug nuts
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I glazed over the fact that it is going onto a syncro.
Test fitting onto the rear drum would take much less than a half hour and the OP would know if the rim is a option.
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrodoka wrote:
Yeah, I glazed over the fact that it is going onto a syncro.
Test fitting onto the rear drum would take much less than a half hour and the OP would know if the rim is a option.


Hi!

that's many times I see "OP" used for describing the owner I guess.

What does it stands for?

Thanks
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I am Wildcat
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ALIKA T3 wrote:
syncrodoka wrote:
Yeah, I glazed over the fact that it is going onto a syncro.
Test fitting onto the rear drum would take much less than a half hour and the OP would know if the rim is a option.


Hi!

that's many times I see "OP" used for describing the owner I guess.

What does it stands for?

Thanks

Original Poster > the guy/girl that started the thread
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you Razz
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