Kafer Cup bar/ Truss bar...

[thejoe138]

all the ad i have seen for these things ( here and in the mags ) only
mention T1 fitment...
anybody tryied to put one on a T3 ? or know what would need to be done
to make it work ?

[PIMPPRIDE]

we make a type 3 specific kafer type bar, you can find more photos in our eBay add...

Anthony / ISP WEST

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-TYPE-3-PERFORMAN...QQtcZphoto

[ChoptopT3]

Joe not trying to jump your thread...but this is something that interest me as well.
Anthony under what circumstance would you recomend installing the kafer bar? My wagon has a 2053 with a IRS Pro street tranny, not really planning on doing a track racing maybe a quarter mile here and there.
Thanks
_________________
"Build it for you"

"Kody" is here born June 11, 2007
4.5 lbs 19.75"
68 Chopped Squareback
64 Ghia vert (wifes car)
2006 Mini Cooper S JCW, it has arrived!!

[PIMPPRIDE]

well it really is going to depend on how you drive the car

you have some power their on hand now and if you drive regular / normal, using the cars new power band, it now makes the car more modern in my opinion, you can merge with traffic and keep up, pass ect... the kafer bar might not do much for you

but if you like me, rev it to 5000 rpm and let that clutch fly, making the car launch and slide thru intersections, and grabbing 2nd gear an tilt the wheel as it kicks back from the other side when you grabbed 2nd... FUN STUFF! then this is what you need to do it right

common sense for everyone is first to have to all the stock mounts in place and good order, if your on the track with all the stock stuff in place, and you have wheel hop, your going to have to add something

with the sub frame on a type 3 being rubber mounted, unlike all the other air cooled models.

once you double or triple the stock HP thru the drive train your going to need some help to stiffen the core of the drive train from torque or twist

on a type 3 the kafer bar does not solve the weakest link ( rubber mounts ) but it makes it possible to work within the limitations of the sub frame as a bolt in solution

i prefer the solid cradle vs the stock or urethane mounted cradle with a stock nose cone mount, as any noise or vibrations can be compensated with today's insulation ( see dynamat ect... )

i plan on adding solid billet mounts ( replacing the rubber sub frame to body/pan mounts with alloy versions ) to my car here in the next month or so during winter, this should complete the weak links and solve any issues with drive train movement

Anthony / ISP WEST

DISCLAMER: these are just my .02¢ opinions, doubling or tripling your HP and sliding your car thru intersections is done at your own risk, it could be very hazardous and additive fun!

[ChoptopT3]

Great disclaimer btw...
I have the stock tranny mount up front and the stock rubber mounts on the tranny, actually let me back up a little.
The rear suspension I have is a Swing/Irs conversion, when I was installing the rear stock tranny mounts it doesnt make sense to use these seeing how they are very soft and with the tourqe of the motor thru the tranny I could get into some trouble.
Do you have the solid tranny bar mount available or a pic atleast? Would your kafer bar bolt up to my suspension setup? Also do you plan on making the solid body mounts available to sell?
Thanks
_________________
"Build it for you"

"Kody" is here born June 11, 2007
4.5 lbs 19.75"
68 Chopped Squareback
64 Ghia vert (wifes car)
2006 Mini Cooper S JCW, it has arrived!!

[jim altemus]

I just finished installing a Bugpack Kafer bar in the back of my Fastback.

The installation was pretty straight forward since the hard points are very similar between a Type 1 and a Type 3. The big difference is the shock mount. I'm not super familiar with Type 1s but I'm assuming by the hardware included that the upper shock mount on a Type 1 is bolted through and nutted on the other side. Type 3s have a blind hole for the shock so I had to order bolts that were 20mm shorter. They are 12mm with a 1.5 pitch. If you can't find those locally McMaster Carr has them and can get them to you quickly.

Once I did that and figured out which way to orient the tabs on those shock bolts it went together pretty easy. I've read threads saying it is easier to pull the motor but I didn't need to do anything like that. Just loosen up the front cone mount and both of the big crossmember bolts, but only remove one bolt at a time, pry back a bit on the mount and the bracket drops right in. Easy peasy.

As soon as I get my new rear wheels painted, the tires mounted and my revised oil filter mount taken care of, I'll be back on the road just in time to put the car away for the winter.

Jim
_________________
aka Jimal
Currently sans Volkswagen

[catbox]

Zombie thread coming back to life....


I have been away from my VW's for a while now as my work has given me loads more responsibility.

However I have recently started thinking about my squareback again and the want to pull it from the depths of the garage.

The car will be getting a well built 2332 and Prostreet IRS transmission.
I will beat it with no mercy, I have seen me drive my bug and know this to be true.

Can a Kafer Brace be installed on a 1970 IRS Square?
I was thinking of purchasing the same EMPI rigid mount set that I put into my bug. Would just using the frame horn bracket that mounts to the trans and the frame horns (missing on my square) and then to the kafer brace be beneficial?

This is the kit that I purchased just for the solid mounting bracket to go into my bug long ago. I will just use the solid mount at the bottom.

Those red urethane mounts lasted with a stock 1600 but were replaced with HD bus mounts the next time the engine came out.

In the above photo of what I put into my bug, I was thinking that just having the kafer brace as sort of a floating mid mount on the square as there are no frame horns.

Has anyone else done this?

Or is there a better way other than swapping to a early subframe and converting it to IRS?

FYI the 2332 will be fiesty.
I have Timms stage 2 heads, squishy pistons, and right now a FK-8.
I may switch the cam to a Web 86B before it is built up on a new case that I have yet to purchase.
_________________
"...these cars were preferred by the racers because the strut front suspension results in far superior handling than the regular torsion bar front end..." - Keith Seume.

[Bobnotch]

Honestly I don't know if it'll do you any good. The 2 lower bolts don't have anything there to bolt to, so it's just hanging in the breeze.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[catbox]

[Bobnotch]

An option would be to add some rear frame rail pieces (like a swing axle or beetle uses) from Appletree auto (dune buggy supply house). Then you could use the 2 lower bolts for the triangle to work. Just something to think about.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120