Unstoppable flywheel oil leak on a vintage speed 36 hp engine

[philippe1]

more tests today with the gearbox engaged and a few drops ,,
i still cannot locate the origine of the leak for sure ..

[philippe1]

[philippe1]

do you think 26 mm oil pump is too big for a 36hp and can produce too high pressure and oil leaks?

[VW_Jimbo]

I have diagnosed similiar “oil drips” in the past. A few times it was tranny oil (you have to smell it!) and a few times engine oil.

When I would drop the engine to solve the issue, I used the shotgun approach. No need to pull the engine out a second time! Right?

I replaced both the engine seal and the transmission input shaft seal. I would also check the flywheel snout for and nail catchers. I always ditched the paper crank gasket and used shellac or “Indian Head” sealant in between the crankshaft end and the flywheel mating surfaces. An older VW mechanic (Ed Guffy, for those that knew him) trained me on that one! It always solved “that leak”!

Good luck. I am certain it is oil seeping around the crankshaft end and into the flywheel!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dYMUcQT2v7j3RJ48X8OnJ4_3VOHVp1jd/view?usp=drivesdk
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Loren]

Are you using the correct gland nut? I just put an AA flywheel on my 36hp engine build and when I had the crank, flywheel and clutch plate balanced the machinest had to machine the hole in the flywheel slightly to fully tighten down the gland nut. He said he either had to enlarge the flywheel hole or machine the shoulder on the gland nut. Maybe this is causing your problem? Are you using the same gland nut from the old flywheel?

[RolandD]

UV dye works well. Check to make sure the transaxle oil does not already glow. Some 90 weight does. If so, just look at your drips with UV.


Roland

[wagen19]

[jbannon]

[philippe1]

True ! The VW gland nut do not fit to the 356 flywheel
Too big in diameter
I use a 356 one

[philippe1]

All these troubles makes me say that the old VW 36 hp engines must stay stock
All these expenses for having tons of trouble and a few more ho that change nothing
Best overall is an original engine with original or NOS parts

Better invest in a 356 motor like the one I built last year to get 120real hp
Visible difference in the 356

[dinsdale]

[philippe1]

Thanks to the community

[Alstrup]

[philippe1]

After running for a few minutes, the cold engine completely stopped running
I take it out of the car and dismantle it, and the bearing on the crankshaft side is marked on the rear part.
Is it a lubrication issue?

Could this explain my leakage problems? I don't know, I'm rechecking it, reassembling it, rechecking all the oil passages, etc.

[wagen19]

[philippe1]

Unfortunately you are right ! The bearing turns onto the case !
At least it seems to me after having a look to the outer face of the bearing
I mentioned that the location for the pin on the bearing is more than 5 mm!
Almost 6 mm!
What do you suggest for the rebuild?
Oversized pins?
Doe anyone had this problem before?

[Alstrup]

you can get oversize pins, but it requires a machinist. Not sure if Slide can make it. While I dont like to recommend them more than necessary, BAS can do the repair.

BUT, you have either a tolerance, or an oil feed problem. I cant see which.
Next time around you need to measure the crunch of the bearing against the bearing journal, so you can figure out where the problem is.
_________________
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[wagen19]